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Where you have the plug, looks like sealant is where i connected my carb vent. I can take more pics tomorrow and will try and label them.
i struggle to finger paint never mind computer paint so bear with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
so... here I am again after a bit of work.


New vent pipe prepared:
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive lighting Automotive tire


This is how I prepared the airbox (I used a plastic 90° irrigation elbow :))
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Automotive design Carbon


Then I hooked up the two parts together:
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Vehicle Automotive exterior


This looks pretty much "acceptable" for my (very low) standards.
All the other holes have been sealed...


This weekend I'm going to re-test the bike, hoping the issue is solved.

Unfortunately while doing my searches on the internet I found this... which drives me mad... I really hope this is not my case....

Bike not reaching the redline | Andys Kawasaki ZXr/ZX7R Tribute Website (andys-kawasaki-zxr-zx7r-tribute-site.net)

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
ok, just to provide a feedback... I just went to test the bike and now she is reaching redline easily and without any hesitation. the vent line change indeed resolved the issue. Thanks guys for the help!

Next step will be to go through a dyno run and checking the Air-Fuel ratio.
I will post the outcome here just to provide some facts.
This will happen later this year, probably after my summer holidays. :cool:
 

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1993 Zx-7 L Model, 2006 ZX-10R
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so... here I am again after a bit of work.


New vent pipe prepared:
View attachment 21923

This is how I prepared the airbox (I used a plastic 90° irrigation elbow :))
View attachment 21924

Then I hooked up the two parts together:
View attachment 21925

This looks pretty much "acceptable" for my (very low) standards.
All the other holes have been sealed...


This weekend I'm going to re-test the bike, hoping the issue is solved.

Unfortunately while doing my searches on the internet I found this... which drives me mad... I really hope this is not my case....

Bike not reaching the redline | Andys Kawasaki ZXr/ZX7R Tribute Website (andys-kawasaki-zxr-zx7r-tribute-site.net)

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
ok, just to provide a feedback... I just went to test the bike and now she is reaching redline easily and without any hesitation. the vent line change indeed resolved the issue. Thanks guys for the help!

Next step will be to go through a dyno run and checking the Air-Fuel ratio.
I will post the outcome here just to provide some facts.
This will happen later this year, probably after my summer holidays. :cool:
See! No broken inner valve spring here :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I'd like to provide another update after few months of usage: the engine is running extremely smooth and revving up without any hesitation at WOT since 2000RPM. I cannot recall such perfection since when I purchased the bike in 1993.
I strongly recommend all the changes I made, especially the jack-up kit made a huge difference in the bike handling without affecting stability. I still wait to go through a full dyno test to see how the engine performs and then I'm planning a full suspension renew by installing a ZX7R fork with hydraulic kit (from K-Tech) and revise the existing ohlins shock (that requires a stiffer spring). stay tuned 😊
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
ok guys, I have started the upgrade of the forks.
I purchased a used set of forks from a ZX7R (or perhaps a ZX7RR....by looking at the pictures it seems exactly that ), the lower triple clamp and axle and yesterday I ordered a K-Tech SSK piston kit.
I'm now taking apart the forks and found the first issue: the cartridge has the "hydraulic lock" that does not want to be removed.... I tried with a heat gun but no way. Any suggestion?
Also... I know that many race bikes have this lock removed to allow a bit of extra travel... but I'm not fully sure if this would be a recommended mod. I'd appreciate any comment on that.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
ok guys, I have started the upgrade of the forks.
I purchased a used set of forks from a ZX7R (or perhaps a ZX7RR....by looking at the pictures it seems exactly that ), the lower triple clamp and axle and yesterday I ordered a K-Tech SSK piston kit.
I'm now taking apart the forks and found the first issue: the cartridge has the "hydraulic lock" that does not want to be removed.... I tried with a heat gun but no way. Any suggestion?
Also... I know that many race bikes have this lock removed to allow a bit of extra travel... but I'm not fully sure if this would be a recommended mod. I'd appreciate any comment on that.
thanks
I've just been informed by a local pro suspension tech that the hydraulic lock can be removed by just hammering it (but first you need to break the seeger). it is recommended to remove it also in case of street use and not only for races, since this will give at least 1cm / 0.4in of extra travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The RR forks are totally different internally and externally. Do you have any pics of the forks?
Hi ninjanut
sorry for the delay but I went under a minor surgery on my right shoulder and I'm back now.

Here are a couple of pics, including fork numbers.
Household hardware Gas Cylinder Auto part Nickel
Automotive tire Wood Rim Bicycle part Font


I have compared the two forks and found minor differences: it seems there are no bushings in the ZX7RR and a spacer that I guess is needed to convert from ride height into spring preload. everything else is identical.

Rectangle Font Handwriting Line Slope
 

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There are a lot more differences than that. The cartridges are different, caps, compression adjusters, tubes and overall length are different. If you look on the top caps, the preload adjuster is hexagonal whereas the R has just two flat sides on the adjuster. The cap you have pictured is not RR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
thanks guys for the above info. good to know!

in the meantime I've moved forward with the fork upgrade... few pics of the work being done:
this is the stock rebound needle (left) vs the KTECH one (right). I now understand why on the stock forks you can just feel "all closed" or "all open" only!!!
Metal Fashion accessory Auto part Body jewelry Circuit component


Despite I have removed the hydro-lock, this is the end of the travel, where the fork cap is hitting internally against the inner tube. No chance to reach the bottom end of the fork.
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Bicycle part Rim


low friction seals that I'm going to install
Automotive tire Hand tool Hood Motor vehicle Bumper


Stock cartridge pistons (left) vs KTECH ones (right)
Gas Cylinder Machine Auto part Pipe


linear ohlins spring vs progressive (stock???) spring. Ohlins is 9.5N/mm; stock springs: I have no idea! no marks at all
I'm surprised to see progressive springs in the forks I purchased (used): do you guys know if these are stock springs?
Font Office supplies Household hardware Close-up Monochrome
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
hey guys quick update on the work being done: the rebound adjustment rod which goes inside the inner tube of the cartridge requires some machining. Since the new rebound piston is longer that the stock one (as well as the needle that sets the rebound) the rod needs to be shortened by a certain amount. I'm now waiting for some specs from K-Tech because in the package there are no details at all. I have calculated 26mm based on some measurements that I did, but I prefer to get a confirmation from the maker.

more to come

the rod to be shortened is highlighted in red
Light Gas Engineering Machine Composite material
Wood Milling Drill Gas Machine tool
 

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This is coming along nicely
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
oh yes definitely.
I'm very happy so far, given also that this is the very first time I've disassembled a fork!
Also the quality of this K-Tech kit is very high, so I'm looking forward to seeing how much improvement I'll get on my baby
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Keep the updates coming and give an update on how it handles with the ktech kit fitted. Im thinking of doing it to the 7R forks i have in my J model.
what raar shock are you going with?
Hi Pyke13
I will provide a detailed report once finished.
Just for the sake of my curiosity, do you have the 7R calipers on you bike?
I need to make a choice among the stock Tokico 6 pots calipers and the Nissin 6 pots; I heard the latter are the best 6 pots calipers in terms of weight and rigidity.

As a shock absorber I have an Ohlins unit which is great, but I need to replace the spring with a stiffer one since my weight is on the upper side of the working range. If I may give you a suggestion, go first with a new rear shock! it will make a world of difference, since the biggest issue lies on the rear.
 

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Ive got triumph 4 pot nissins on mine with a gen 3 10r radial master cylinder and braided lines, hopefully it will stop well enough.
as for rear shock im planning on usibg a 2015 zx6r showa shock, they seem pretty good for oem kit. That and ive got it sitting already so may as well use it.
 

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I would go for nissin over tokico as there me t to be better calipers. The master cylinder will make the biggest difference, either oem radial or aftermarket radial. Brembo 18x20 is what im planning for my L model since ive nicked the 10R mc for my J model
 
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