christ.
*can-o-worms*

now.. i am certain some cats will come in here and try to shoot down what i say.. lol.. but i will be as blunt and up-front as possible.

the "recommended" break-in is bullshit.
plain and simple. i am a race engine builder. i have been building engines for almost 10 years. from M3s to race cars to turbo motors in bikes and cars, to race-winning off-road and track bikes, to MKIV supras and everything in between
EVERY time i built a motor, i beat on it.
NEVER ever in 8 years have i had an unhappy customer.

1. it is not verifiable unless it was started cold and ran to redline in the first few sconds of actually being started for the first time. a full teardown and blueprinting is needed at this point. assuming they kept clearances the same, big end on the rods will be from .0004"-.0016"
mains will be from .0018-.0022.. but no promises as i haven't built an 09 yet.


2. if its beat on.. you'll have more power as a result of better ring seal and high compression.

3. can't do shit. if you're scared, you shouldn't have bought the bike. that, or buy a new set of rings, hone the bores and get the crosshatch on ( use a diamond hone.. it's a nikasil bore) and .. well. might as well replace all the main and rod bearings. NOW, you have a new motor in need for the sissy ass factory break in!

 

+1
if something is going to go wrong with the motor at 12k RPM is isn't going to matter if you waited till after 500 miles to do it. break it in like you are going to be riding it. im still pretty new to motorcycles but i do have an engineering degree and that background is where i am speaking from.

 

+1

I dont have near the experience that Hendrix has, but I have been building engines for a little over two years now and have been pushing them hard. The "hard" break in is fine, its better, as Hendrix has said, for ring sealing. As long as the engine isnt stone cold while this is happening your fine. The soft break in was used way back in the earlier days of performance engines, due to the lack of quality parts and such. Engines would be torn down do to crappy parts. IE.. thrown rods, valves etc..

The "hard" break in is recommended.

 

I built a motor for my 97 Eclipse Gsx and beat the living piss out of it. Still runs fine.

 

+1 lol
built a full race motor on a 90 talon tsi, let it warm up and launched it down the street smackin the rev limiter in every gear and it ran fine for 120,000 miles. like the above posts said, break it in like you're going to run it.

 

You should be fine. You don't want to baby the engine too much. New engines have a fresh cylinder hone. A rough surface for the rings to wear against so they "seat" properly. The idea is not high revs but definately give it a decent amount of throttle. The increased cylinder pressure forces the rings against the cylinder walls. If you baby it the hone will smooth out before the rings have a chance to seat and you won't have optimal compression and oil retention. I would just stay away from the high revs until the valvetrain and lower-end bearings have a chance to break in.

 

they're babbit bearings.

non-contact

whatever color the bearing shell is (well. the paint.. blue, brown.. etc) determines the oil clearance and thats how it'll stay until cold starts eventually change the clearance

 

+1 wouldnt stress it much.

 

Don't worry. Be happy. The factory puts every bike on the chassis dyno before it leaves Japan. They run it to redline/full throttle to test it.

 

↑↑↑↑↑

THO.. that alone is not enough to seat rings.. but.. yes.

 

4g63 ftw

 

Huh???:headscratch:headscratch:headscratch

 

another dsmer? I can't get awayyyyyyy!

 

DSM's are the best haha. besides a big money pit they are nice engines.