I just ended up taking of the header and it dropped right out. Still an extra 2 hours to the oil change. Haha. Have a new respect for moto mechanics.

 

Don't you love how they made it so you can come within about a 1/4 of an inch of getting it out but can't be done without loosening off the exhaust system. I managed to get mine out by loosening off the header bolts and removing the rear mounting bolts but even then it took some choice words and wiggling to get the filter out.

 

Yeah it's ridiculous. Not to mention all the body parts you have to take off just to get to the header. After all that I decided to do a few other things since I have it all apart. Ordered oil pan gasket and a new generator (well used). Hopefully I can get it all back together. Went the extra mile and bagged all the screws and bolts.

 

If you have questions on reassembly...post them. I've taken my 88 all the way apart and put it back together again more times than I care to admit. I was telling my wife I have most of the bolts and screws memorized at this point.

Good luck. Keep the old machines running!!!

 

If you have questions on reassembly...post them. I've taken my 88 all the way apart and put it back together again more times than I care to admit. I was telling my wife I have most of the bolts and screws memorized at this point.

Good luck. Keep the old machines running!!!

I'm the excat same way with my 88

 

Will do thanks. My bike happened to be missing quite a few screws and bolts already. Can't wait to ride it. I think I need to replace my throttle cable have you done that yet?

 

Yep, been through the throttle...that won't be bad for you. Of course the tank will have to come off. The only hard part is getting the cable out of the linkage on the carb. I just twist the throttle open and hold the linkage. This allows for slack on the cable. Use a narrow set of needle nose to slide the cable off. Post with problems.

 

not sure about similarities but..

I was told by a mechanic that the center bolt of the oil filter cover (on my 600r) will pull out of the center allowing the cover to slide past the exhaust. I haven't tried it myself but you might want to check with another mechanic about this. My first attempt, I loosened the header bolts too, but was told it wasn't necessary. The setup on a 750 can't be much different than mine. Tim

 

Thanks for the help. I changed the oil pan gasket which went pretty smooth. Oil filter's back in. Now I'm trying to tackle the carbs but can't seem to get them out. Throttle cable is off and all the bolts are loose any tricks? I've read my haynes and I've done what it's asked.

 

You have to be a bit heavy handed to get the carbs off. Make sure you have loosened the clamps right off, then get a good hold of the carbs and push them forwards and backwards. Eventually you'll get some movement and all of a sudden they'll come off. The rubbers are very thick and have very little flix in them. I think from memory there is also a ridge on the carbs that seats into a corrisponding step in the rubbers.

When you put them back in try putting a little copper-ease on the insides of the rubbers. You dont have to work so hard to get them back in then.

I think the ZXR750 and ZX7R must be different cus my oil filteris easy to get at, don't think it has anything to do with the fact that my 7 has an Akropovic exhaust. What I would recommend to anyone play with their exhaust headers is to replace the manky steel studs and nuts with stainless bolts - no rust, no messing :lol

 

I think the ZXR750 and ZX7R must be different cus my oil filteris easy to get at, don't think it has anything to do with the fact that my 7 has an Akropovic exhaust. What I would recommend to anyone play with their exhaust headers is to replace the manky steel studs and nuts with stainless bolts - no rust, no messing :lol

He's working on a 87, it's really a GPx750. Totally different than the ZXR750 & ZX7R, the ZXR replaced it in 89.

 

I got a buddy coming over to give me a hand. It's just akward trying to get both hands in there so I figure if we each take a side should get them out. Thanks for the input.

Yeah I had to drop the exhaust but what oldschol said about dropping the bolt makes sense. It would probably clear that way.

 

Yeah, don't be afraid to put some muscle on them to get them off. The first time I pulled mine...they had not been off in a while, so the rubber had kind of sealed. Once it broke loose it became easy to slide off and on.

Just be careful...if you pry to hard down, you can crack the carb boots (if they are original like mine). Concentrate on pulling, not just prying them down. You'll get 'em. Two guys on it will make it alot easier too.

Resist the urge to pry between the boots and carbs with anything (like a screwdriver) unless you want to buy new ones.

Good luck!

 

Alright got the carbs out now if I want to clean them do I need to order any parts or can I just take them apart to clean them?

Also I'm trying to bolt the header back on and this is a far as I can get it to the block. Isn't it supposed to sit flush? Well, the flanges to the block?

 

mine dont sit flush just torq them to factory spec i snapped 2 studs trying to get them tight

 

Alright. I stopped wrenching cause I didn't want to snap them. Thanks.

 

Another question. 18mm spark plugs bought a spark plug socket and it doesn't fit in the cylinder head. Where do I find a slim wall for a spark plug?

 

The dealer or a motorcycle salvage yard or ebay.

Get a complete tool kit for your bike if you can.The only part you really need is the spark plugwrench but the rest is handy to have.Check your pm's too.You have mail.

 

If you're stripping the carbs, I always replace float bowl rubbers and float level plungers. Make sure you strip out ALL rubber components before using alcohol based carb cleaner cuz it does funny thing to rubber. If the bike has been running fine I wouldn't take out the pilot or air bleed jets as they can be a problem to set-up again. You can take out the main jet and defuser tube to check that they aren't gummed.

Oh, and don't mix the bits up from carb to carb, do one at a time. Wow, the way we're going you'll have a totally new bike at the end, lol.

 

Any chance you have part numbers for the float bowl rubbers and float level plungers. I just want to make sure I order the right parts. They have several parts with similar names.
Thanks. I figured since I have the bike stripped down and I never want to do it again might as well spend the extra time and money and do it right.

 

This is one website I get parts from. It usually is cheaper by a couple bucks depending on what you're buying. The best part is - they give the tear down diagram.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/2935-kawasaki-1987-ninja-750r-ZX750-F1/assemblies/90979

This will have the part number and name that you are looking for.

 

Thanks actually the site I was looking at and looking at the diagram I couldn't figure out what parts you were refering to. The parts I saw were metal and I believe you are talking about rubber parts.

 

Have you got a workshop manual ? If not I recommend you get one. The Haynes manuals always have drawings off carbs with numbered disciptions of all the components. On the replacement parts side, you need what is usually called a 'carb repair kit'. There are loads of places on ebay that do these. If you let them know make, model and year they'll sort you out.:mfclap

 

Great thanks. I do have a haynes manual. Has saved my butt a few times.

 

Cam guide chain

Hello im new here, working on my 94 Zxr7 any ideas on replcing some plastics at a good price and how do u adjust the cam guide chain

 

Alright trying to put these carbs back in. They are seated all the way into motor but can't get the airbox seated properly. Any tricks I've been messing with it for almost an hour. I had all the rubber straight but of course getting the carbs back in messed it up. But now I can't get the bottom half of the rubbers on.

 

I sprayed wd 40 on the carbs would putting some grease on the rubber parts be a bad thing?

 

wow this is great! just bought an 87 gpx750R and and it's been sitting for a long time, all i wanted to know is how i could get the cover for the oil cap, now i'm learning more... have a minor experiences in the past, but havent had any for cylinders with radiator before... anyone has a any tips would be helpful... to loosen the manifold do you have to take out the radiator and oil cooler? thanks (nooby)

 

I had the same problem today, bolt spinning but would not pull out.
Solution - stab a long screwdriver through the old filter element to stop it turning, the bolt will then unscrew from the rubber grommet in the top of the element.
Simples.
RSE.