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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I helped a buddy sync his ZZR's carbs this weekend only to find the air tunnels just sit there going into the airbox.

Anybody seal theirs? The problem with the pipe-clamp style used on other airboxes is securing the intake boots to the box. Puzzled why Kawi neglected to seal the airbox. Seems like lazy engineers. :headscratch :rant
 

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well, it isn't ram air for starters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is or so it appears. It has two funnels leading in from the front of the fairing and includes the float bowl equalization snorkel and all its vacuum plumbing. There's every impression the airbox should be sealed for RAM pressurization, but it's obvious it is not designed to be.

If it was mine, I'd seal it, whether it is RAM air or not. No sense in having the engine ingest oven-hot air from the area above the cam cover.
 

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Nah, you are right. I was thinking of the ZRX.

Why not look up the fiche?
 

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There IS a seal. It is a small rubber o-ring that runs around the perimeter of the backing plate-to-airbox junction. A previous maintainer probably tossed it, or it was possibly broken and discarded and not replaced. Check the Bike Bandit parts microfiche and you'll see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome. Thx HH. I'll do that.

There were lots of little parts missing, like many of the vacuum hose metal retainer clips, so that would add up about what the PO had done. Like #2's boot was the only one with a clip. How strange is that! Apparently the bike had been rejetted.

BTW, do you know if that bike also takes split-fire NGKs? My buddy said they were and that he changed the plugs already, but when we pulled them they were standard plugs.

I went through the process of cleaning his carbs, dropping the pilot air screws out and resetting before a carb sync. No signs of clogs whatsoever. The bike runs smoothly at 1,200+ RPM, but seems to misfire badly at the recommended 1,050. His plug's insulator tips were completely tarnished, but not coated more than moderately with carbon. I think I just answered my own question. We need to replace his spark plugs and perhaps rejet.
 

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Was there any oil in the plug wells? The little figure-8 gaskets tend to harden and weep. Sometimes there's enough leakage to short the plugs. Check the wire caps, too. They can loosen from being pulled repeatedly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
He did the removal/installation on the plugs while I was working on other stuff, but from what I gathered all the rubber items on the top of the engine, including the ignition snakes were in excellent condition. I saw him zipping the caps onto the spark plugs and I double checked plug torque.

Next question, is regarding power delivery, but first some history (post work):
2005 ZZR-1200 California model with full emissions equipment in OEM condition
bike is ridden primarily on short < 100 mile rides and not often (old gas)
exhaust: dual muzzy
mileage: 8,000
initial valve adjustment: not done
K & N air filter is pristine and oiled properly
Cylinder compression: 1 - 4 :: 170, 165, 180, 175
There's a slight throttle lag when wipped WOT. Slight.
Bike does not kick out black smoke at WOT. It starts cold with a little enricher (25% - 50%), doesn't require more than a few seconds of that before it's able to idle on its own and needs no throttle to start when hot, like an EFI bike.
Rider hasn't run bike into REServe for several years and when we took the fuel tank off, if I remember correctly, both Red/Blue vapor recovery vacuum hoses where filled with gasoline.
Bike is civil to ride at steady throttle at all riding RPMs.

I've ridden his 1200 only three times, twice up here at altitude and once after performing the work. Honestly, I was not impressed with the power under 5K RPM at sea level. It felt much the same as it did at altitude, weak. For a 1200 I'd say it was adequate, but I would have thought the bike would be an all out beast, at least starting at 3K. Maybe 3K isn't where the cams come on, maybe it's old gas, but above 5K, the world becomes a blur like it should.
 

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They are set up lean and have a bit of a flat spot in the midrange until tuned out. My last one had a Dynojet kit when I bought it and I added Muzzy Ti Slip-ons. Long, 6" wheelies in the first 3 gears were common on hard launches. It always felt like it was being pushed from behind by the Hand of God. I know this 14 has more poop, but it's a lot smoother and less visceral. I don't know if the Cal smog equipment makes a difference or not, but I would bet it does. Removal of the Kleen Air System doesn't add any power, but makes maintenance simpler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
This is what I saw

As shown here, there's no clamp at the airbox end of the #14073 intake pipe. Sure there's 92171D connecting the resonator chamber to the pipe, but big deal. The airbox isn't sealed.

The fiche of the airbox doesn't show anything either. There's the female airbox holes and these two pipes, but nothing to seal the two together. :angry

Still searching for ideas and help.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Found the answer to the 5K RPM power

Confirms what HH said.

When it gets to bikes this fast, it's splitting hairs to try and compare which one's faster (170mph vs. 175, how fast do you need to get to that dentist appointment?). That said, the Kawasaki's monstrously powerful and torquey engine easily pulls away from the Honda [XX] at supra-triple-digit speeds. In the midrange, too, the ZZ-R lunges ahead from 5000 rpm...

we prefer the carbureted power delivery characteristics of the ZZ-R. It's not as snatchy as the Honda, and overall a little more natural and fluid feeling. ...but as it turns out this engine still feels fairly peaky for a 1200--with a whole lotta mojo everywhere on the tachometer's diabolically orange glowing face.
- Motorcycle.com ZZR-1200 v. CBR-1100XX comparison
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
92093a

Yes that too is there (above), but I'm talking about at the front of the airbox. The two pipes coming in are not secured to the airbox, creating a loss of airbox RAM affect because of it.

Like for instance, on the ZX-9R airbox shown here. In this instance, Kawasaki uses the same part number (92039A) and two #92037 pipe clamps, but they serve a completely different function and location. That might appear to be the answer, but I don't think it'll work on the ZZR's airbox. Unfortunately, the 9's airbox has a male intake that jaunts out sufficiently for the duct seal to cover and clamp to, whereas the ZZR's is too short for anything to hang onto.

2000 ZX-9R intake system
 

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The ZZR's box fits tightly into the rubber tubes at the end of the ram air tubes. There are small drain tubes connected to the box to keep water our of the intake and drain the hard plastic tubes. I'm sure they pass more pressurized air than the box-to-tube junction. The airbox starts out at negative pressure as soon as the engine's running. Considering aerodynamics, you probably have to be doing over 120 mph to get any appreciable ram air effect anyway. I think you may be worrying about nothing, or next to it.
 

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An considering the stock ZZR 12 can run the 1/4 in the low tens, I don't think the design is hindering the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
An considering the stock ZZR 12 can run the 1/4 in the low tens, I don't think the design is hindering the motor.
Consider who you're talking to. Of course, I'm going to obsess and lose sleep over it! :rant
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The ZZR's box fits tightly into the rubber tubes at the end of the ram air tubes...
On his the intake pipes only go in about half way, resulting in large gaps between the two male/female parts, but you've given me an idea. I bet if I have him purchase two more #14073 pipes which are kinda flexible or something similar, I could cut the new ones in half and sleeve one over the other so that the result would be that the pipe would jam into the airbox front as you describe.

Thanks again HH! You da man! :mfclap
 

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On his the intake pipes only go in about half way, resulting in large gaps between the two male/female parts, but you've given me an idea. I bet if I have him purchase two more #14073 pipes which are kinda flexible or something similar, I could cut the new ones in half and sleeve one over the other so that the result would be that the pipe would jam into the airbox front as you describe.

Thanks again HH! You da man! :mfclap
Just passing on my personal experience. BTW, a friend of a friend is looking for a 9R. I looked on Fleabay and didn't see a-one. If you know of any f/s, let me know.
 
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