[fizzman911]

I bought a 96 zx7r last June with 10000 miles at a good price. The bike is in perfect condition. The only issue I have been having with it is that when I shift from 1st to 2nd and very rarely from 2nd to 3rd at high rpms it will grind gears a bit. This never happens when shifting below 7000. I know that if I press very hard and quickly on the shifter it will lessen the chance of grinding but it is still and issue as I do want to get yo the root of the problem. Is this normal for the zx7r? I bled the lines today. I noticed the oil was very old. I am also thinking it might be a clutch issue. If I start the bike on 1st with clutch pulled I will feel a jerk. Also, then the choke is on the bike won't want to go into first from neutral, it will grind gears till the choke is off. I am sure the clutch is the original. Do any of you recommend a certain clutch for my bike? I have seen information on clutch kits. Is that what I need? Or do I just need the plates?

Thank you

Fizz

 

[Masta Squidge]

Sounds like you just need practice with the bike, but it might actually be something.

I have managed to grind 1-2 on every bike I have owned more than once. Starting it in 1st and feeling it pull a bit is also normal, just the clutch plates sticking together a bit.

 

[fizzman911]

I have owned a couple of sport bikes. I'm sure that what I am doing is not wrong. IF riding around the block at 35 MPH then it's not an issue but I do take the bike to the track and I like going on spirited rides. I think the clutch plates are too old. Any suggestion? I don't think there is nothing seriously wrong withe transmission.

 

[Masta Squidge]

1-2 at high RPMs is never smooth for me. Thats why you shouldnt really be riding around at 12k in 1st gear.

 

[Bullitt]

I wouldn't really go more than 10 grand in 1st gear. That damn neutral safety crap always gets me on mine.

Not sure if I read right, if the engine oil looks questionable Definately change it. Fresh oil in these engines makes a huge difference in the shifting.

Josh

 

[fizzman911]

The engine oil is fine. The oil in the brake and clutch lines was very old. I bled the whole system. It feels better but I still think the clutch is old and needs replacement. What do you recommend? Any brands in specific? What do the clutch kits with all the springs and plates do?

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/96-03-KAWASAKI-ZX7R-STREET-CLUTCH/dp/B002OPK5I6[/ame]

 

[Masta Squidge]

You dont need to replace a clutch just because it is old. You replace it when it is worn and/or slipping.

 

[Bullitt]

Maybe you missed my point... If the bike has sat any and has 1000 miles on the oil it's going to shift like crap. That's just the way it is.

Now if you had just changed the oil and it's shifting like crap then possibly either the clutch needs to be bled again or the clutch plates are warped.

But given its new and likely sat for a period time, change the oil.

Josh

 

[fizzman911]

The engine oil I have changed. I run full synthetic oil. If I had some slippage issue then what would you guys recommend?

 

[Bullitt]

Is it actually slipping or just a bit "clunky"?

Josh

 

[Bullitt]

I should have added...

Is the tranny still crunchy when you shift without the clutch?

Josh

 

[fizzman911]

I have not tried to shift from 1st to 2nd without a clutch with high rpms. So I am not sure. It's more clunky but I feel like the clutch is sticking a bit. It might not be a clutch issue but I would like to see if it helps. I don't mind paying for a new clutch.

 

[Bullitt]

A sticking clutch usually rears it's ugly head during cold start and you shift into 1st gear and kills the engine.

A clunky tranny during actually shifting, points more towards:

Worn engine oil
Worn forks
Worn sprags/dogs

Notice the clutch isn't a part of this...

Josh

 

[fizzman911]

Thanks for the info. I'll do some more experimenting and see what I come up with. I still would like to know more about what clutches would work well with my bike. What is the difference between the kits with springs and plates and the others?

 

[Bullitt]

The best frictions are OEM Kawasaki parts, but I currently have EBC frictions.

Only use Kawasaki springs

Set up your clutch steels for medium slip.



Josh

 

[fizzman911]

Thanks bullit. I was looking at the ebc.

Should I go for this:

Would I need anything else?

 

[Bullitt]

That Amazon page isn't loading on my iPhone here at work.. But the standard EBC frictions are what you need.

The EBC springs are super stiff. If you do go that route rather than Kawasaki Kit springs I recommend using half the EBC springs with half OEM.

You'll need to remove the cover and tear part the clutch to see if you need steels:

Josh

 

[fizzman911]

The difference is that the complete kit comes with steel separator plates to "allow clutch to be rebuilt to exact original tack hight "

Is this needed? It's about a 30 dollar difference. Why are their springs stiffer? Is there any advantage to stiffer springs?

Thanks!

 

[Bullitt]

I personally would only use OEM steels.

You shouldn't need new steels anyways.

Basically it goes like this: The ZX7 has a slipper clutch. Stock is 7 steels (or plates) @ 2.3mm each

Medium Slip is 4 X 2.3 plates and 3 X 2.0 plates

Full slip is 2 X 2.3 and 5 X 2.0

Oem part #'s

2.0mm plates 13089-026
2.3mm plates 13089-1004
2.5mm plates 13089-1067

When the clutch gets "looser" you need stronger springs:

White Springs (which is what I run) 92081-1033 for medium slip

Full slip is either or a combination of green and blue springs:

92081-1176 Green
92144-1904 Blue

Stock are the Yellow springs:

92081-139

If you do use the EBC springs just use 3 of those with 3 stock OEM springs. The EBC springs are or at least they used to be super super SUPER stiff which makes normal riding especially in traffic a biotch!

Josh

 

[fizzman911]

Josh

Thanks for the info. This is just what I was looking for. This helps me understand the system much better. The standard clutch steels 7 x 2.3mm, what kind of slip does this provide? The least amount?