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Discussion Starter #1
First off thanks to everyone and their patience here :) I have been doing some work on my 95 zx7 for the past few weeks, and this place has been so helpful to me :clap

I want to swap my 95 zx7 shock with a newer zx10 shock. I read that I will need to drill out the bottom mounting bolt a bit etc. I just do not know what year zx10 shock I am looking for.

I hear 2004+, is this correct?
 

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Im using 04-05 on mine. I dunno what there talking about you gotta drill, because mine fits perfect in frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im using 04-05 on mine. I dunno what there talking about you gotta drill, because mine fits perfect in frame.
Awesome. I read the bottom bolt was slightly larger on the zx7. I am glad you cleared that up for me. Off to ebay. Thanks again man :crazyloco
 

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Awesome. I read the bottom bolt was slightly larger on the zx7. I am glad you cleared that up for me. Off to ebay. Thanks again man :crazyloco
Oh, your talking about putting a zx10 shock onto a zx7 swingarm, in that case, then yes you might have to drill.
 

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The lower mounting hole in the 10R shock is 10mm. The 7 links and rocker are 12mm.

So drill out the lower to 12mm. The upper can be drilled to 12mm, but it is way easier to just use the upper 10R mount and leave the 10mm.

I swapped in a 12R shock and the upper mount was tough, but ok to drill out to 12mm, but when I swapped to the 10R shock it just laughed at me... so I used the 10R mount.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The lower mounting hole in the 10R shock is 10mm. The 7 links and rocker are 12mm.

So drill out the lower to 12mm. The upper can be drilled to 12mm, but it is way easier to just use the upper 10R mount and leave the 10mm.

I swapped in a 12R shock and the upper mount was tough, but ok to drill out to 12mm, but when I swapped to the 10R shock it just laughed at me... so I used the 10R mount.

Josh
I should have just PM'd you, I knew you'd know lol!

I ordered a '04 zx10r that had the top original mount with it, and included the lower bracket although I will not be using it.

Got it for $70 to my door, and it was in like new condition. I hope it will work :eek:hno
 

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Keep in mind the shock is slightly shorter, so you'll need to crank the adjuster up more. On my old shock I had it maxed to the cotter pin, and I maxed it to the cotter pin on the 12R shock as well.

With the 10R shock I have it backed down a touch since the 10R swingarm is longer.

Another thing to keep in mind is the 10R shock interferes with the battery box. I had to remove the metal plate and make a "U" shaped strap to hold the battery tray up away from the shock. Not a big deal, but keep that in mind when doing the swap.

I didn't have any issues with the 12R shock though.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Keep in mind the shock is slightly shorter, so you'll need to crank the adjuster up more. On my old shock I had it maxed to the cotter pin, and I maxed it to the cotter pin on the 12R shock as well.

With the 10R shock I have it backed down a touch since the 10R swingarm is longer.

Another thing to keep in mind is the 10R shock interferes with the battery box. I had to remove the metal plate and make a "U" shaped strap to hold the battery tray up away from the shock. Not a big deal, but keep that in mind when doing the swap.

I didn't have any issues with the 12R shock though.

Josh
I figured I might have to change around the battery tray. I am also installing swing arm extensions, so the shortened shock is actually a plus for me. I am only 5'10 and I have the stock shock almost all the way to the top. I can't figure out why the shock was made so big for these bikes. Maybe I am just short. It has the stock dogbone right now.

I got the 10R shock, lowering links, and a 3-8" extension. I think that should turn out rather nicely if my research was all correct.
 

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I'm 5'10" as well. I could still flat foot at a stop with the stock shock maxed to the cotter. I did the 10R swingarm swap and maxed out the 10R shock mount to the cotter and I could tip-toe... that sucked so I had to back it down which interfered with the tray even more.

You win some, you lose some.

Good luck

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm 5'10" as well. I could still flat foot at a stop with the stock shock maxed to the cotter. I did the 10R swingarm swap and maxed out the 10R shock mount to the cotter and I could tip-toe... that sucked so I had to back it down which interfered with the tray even more.

You win some, you lose some.

Good luck

Josh
Yea I am gonna give it a try and see what I am working with. Worst case scenario the 10r shock goes back on eBay, not big deal. I thought while I was doing the extension I might as well update the shock.
 

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The battery tray should be your only obstacle...

Josh
 

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This is how I did my battery tray mod>

Trim about 35mm off the bottom of the plastic tray


Rough cutout (The actual shape changed at the front due to the shock mount being offset to the gear change side) using some 3mm aluminium sheet (Those in the USA can use aluminum)


The new lower tray & front mount folded up ready to fit


The front mount was spaced from the battery tray (About 10-12mm?) with plastic washers to get it all sitting back in the exact same position it was originally in


Fitted a new Lithium Ion Ultralite (0.8kg) battery, LITX9BS or YTX9BS equivalent


Shown with a ZX7 shock fitted to my 94 ZX7 / AUS ZXR 750, Enough clearance to fit a ZX10 etc shock


With the OEM steel bracket removed & some of the plastic trimmed off the bottom it feels lighter, It all goes together nicely & is actually easier to work on now
 

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sorry for resurrecting the dead, but this is exactly my question (the answer is the problem ) :)
I don't want to put a 9 year old shock on my bike, so... what is the newest ZX10 (or 6) I can put on my 98 7R without too much modification ( I know about the battery tray, and possibly drilling the bolt holes)?

Thanks!
 
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