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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok im getting mixed directions on the correct timing. And since i didnt try to rotate the crank manualy first, i bent a valve, which is no problem because i have a spare head. So the first way i did it was by the service manual....



Bike wouldnt fire up and bent my valve, but i think it was already bent, hence why i have the bike apart in the first place. I think timing it the way shown in the manual just finished it off because now i cant even rotate it a full 360*. So i got the new head in, the company forgot to ship the cams so they will be here next week. However, im going by this guys video (went by his videos for alot of other things)

@ 5:46

So his cams are flipped 180* degree's. The notch on the mounting point of the sprocket is flipped. So im not sure where to go from here. I had mine set to TDC for 1&4...just dont want to fuck it up or time it wrong once i get the new cams in
 

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When you install your cams, be sure your crank is set at TDC for pistons 1 and 4, then line up the factory timing marks. Set it to where the "in" and "ex" stamped above the timing marks are all either facing upwards, or all downwards (like they are in the video). It shouldn't matter either way. Then, assuming you install the timing chain, tensioner, and everything else correctly. you shouldn't run in to any problems.

Just throwing this out there. Be sure you double and triple check everything. ie: torque specs, timing marks, valve clearances, plugging in the wiring harness, anything you can think of. Even if it seems easy and you know what you are doing, don't work to fast. Take your time. Things go wrong when you get in a rush. The last thing you want to do is rush it all together just to have to tear it back apart again. (speaking from experience)
 

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With cyl 1 and 4 at tdc. The in and ex have a mark below them. These marks should be even with the head. Apply pressure to the tensioner guide with your finger. (At least on my bike you can). With pressure on the tensoiner recheck all timing marks. A lot of people make the mistake of not having tension on the system which can pull a tooth of slack out of the chain. Thats what happened on mine and more than likely yours. What I'm doing the next time is buying some grease markers and mark the crank gear to chain link and cams to chain links takes all the guess work out of aligning
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I get what you guys are saying but thats not what my confusion is about. My crank is at TDC for 1&4. I tried timing it as you see in the service manual. Which ended up bending my valve, like i said, i think it was already fucked up and not closing all the way for the past year or so, hence why i have the bike ripped apart.

So the question is, do I go by the service manual or the video? The service manual shows the IN and the EX marks on the inside of the cam (like in the video view) but they are on the outter edges.

The video has the same markings but on the inside of the cams. As well as there is a grove on the mounting point of the cam for the sproket. You can see it on top in the video and if you look closely at the picture of the service manual you can see it but its on the bottom. So which do i go by?
 

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Both are right. They are just doing it 360 degrees(on the crank, 180 at the cams) from each other. I would follow the book though. When you set your timing with 1 + 4 at TDC only one of the 2 are on the compression stroke. After you have your timing set whichever way you choose, rotate your crank 360 back to the mark in the window and you'll notice your cams are now at the position you didn't choose to start at.
Does that make sense?
 

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Also if you do it the way the video says, you will probably have to reverse the torque sequence in the book because cylinder 1 will be at TDCC not cylinder 4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Also if you do it the way the video says, you will probably have to reverse the torque sequence in the book because cylinder 1 will be at TDCC not cylinder 4.
Not quite sure what you mean by this. Both the book and video and my bike are at TDC for 1 and 4, how would 1 be at TDC and not 4? Also how are both ways correct? The lobs will be out of position. For example. If you time it liket he way it is in the book, the lobs for the exhaust valves on #4 are about 3/4 through its cycle. But if you flip it like the video, then its only 1/4 through its cycle.

I kinda get what you are saying but still confused. So lets say for example, going by the book my 1&4 are at TDC and #1 is on compression stroke and #4 isnt. If i time it like in the video, that means #4 is on compression and #1 isnt? That all makes sence but doesnt that fuck up the firing order for the spark plugs and fuel system?
 

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The electronics in the bike will sort it out the firing and whatnot. As long as you get it mechanically lined up right. It will know if its on compression or the exhaust stroke.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Exactly, there are sensors that give the computer the crank and cam position , telling it when to fire and which cylinder.

But like I said in my first post, both ways are right (just 360 degrees from each other), but I would follow the book. I find it easier to get it right, youll notice that when following the book cyl 1's cam lobes are pointing down slightly but cyl 4 are up, making it easier to line up your timing marks against your head.
Hopefully this makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yea it makes complete sence now, thanks. After i made the last post i was thinking the cam sensor would help the ecu fire the plugs in order.
 

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With cyl 1 and 4 at tdc. The in and ex have a mark below them. These marks should be even with the head. Apply pressure to the tensioner guide with your finger. (At least on my bike you can). With pressure on the tensoiner recheck all timing marks. A lot of people make the mistake of not having tension on the system which can pull a tooth of slack out of the chain. Thats what happened on mine and more than likely yours. What I'm doing the next time is buying some grease markers and mark the crank gear to chain link and cams to chain links takes all the guess work out of aligning
 

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I have to reset the timing on my 07 zx 600. I put in a new pulser coil and turned the wheel the wrong way. How would I reset the timing so the bike will fire?
 

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You don't have to touch the Timing, That first gear is the Starter Idler if that's what your refering to and turning it will not alter the Timing.
 
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