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Discussion Starter #1
Bought the bike as a non-runner. It was crashed, had a broken engine cover so it just sat in a garage for 8 months before I picked it up.

Anyway, I fixed the engine cover and bought a new radiator. While I was at it, I went ahead and replaced...

-spark plugs
-deleted the PAIR system (PAIR block off plates and eliminator plug so no CEL)
-new engine oil (no metal shavings in the old oil)
-new air filter
-and new battery
-pick up sock

I went to start the bike it idled for a while, but then died. I noticed it sounded like it was missing on 1 or more cylinders. I went ahead and removed the plugs (the first 3 were clean, the 4th one was darker on the end, indicating that was the cylinder that was running), checked compression, every cylinder was at 220 PSI. I then checked spark on each coil and plug and it had good spark. I went ahead and removed the fuel pump and replaced the pickup sock, the old one was dirty so I replaced that too. I checked fuel pump operation by hooking a hose into it then cycling the key, plenty of fuel went into my empty water bottle. When I cranked the bike a lot more went into the bottle as well. Fuel pump appears to work fine.

After doing all of that the bike sounds better, all cylinders are running it appears... however..... after idling for about 15 seconds, the idle dropped and it died. Then it wouldn't fire up again. I tried giving it throttle and hitting the starter it would turn on then die almost instantly after. I eventually gave up because the starter is making weird noises and i'm afraid i'm just abusing it maybe the starter clutch is getting extra wear... but it sounds kinda clunky when I crank it.


Here's a video of it running before it died (when it was missing on multiple cylinders)

Here's a video of the starter clutch making weird noises:

I tried taking a video the last time I had it running well here, I only got it right before it died though. It made a "puff" sound right before the bike died... strange huh? Not sure what that could indicate

Here's a picture of the pickup sock, new vs old


Any ideas? Thank you in advanced!


Additional Info:

2012 with 18k miles
Stock except a full Akra Exhaust


At first I thought it was a clogged injector... but now i'm not so sure. I heard there's a "wax unit" which is responsible for the idle being higher on start up, I thought maybe that's the problem but I just don't know because when I give it gas it doesn't want to rev it just dies anyway.
I think it could possibly be a venting issue, but when I opened the gas lid and tried cranking the bike it wouldn't fire up and again the starter clutch is making strange noises so I decided to leave it alone for now. Now i'm just sitting here scratching my head not sure what to do next. Also when I open the gas lid I never heard a hissing or popping sound at all so I'm not sure if it's a venting issue after all..
 

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Upon first read, I would immediately do the proper fuel pump pressure and flow test as required per manual for the bike.
Fuel pumps can appear to be operating properly, however unless the flow test is measured accurately, and the pump operating at correct pressure specs; the fuel rail will not build enough pressure to run the bike.
After that checks out, I would bypass all the safety lockout systems on the bike to begin to eliminate electrical/fuel cut.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Upon first read, I would immediately do the proper fuel pump pressure and flow test as required per manual for the bike.
Fuel pumps can appear to be operating properly, however unless the flow test is measured accurately, and the pump operating at correct pressure specs; the fuel rail will not build enough pressure to run the bike.
After that checks out, I would bypass all the safety lockout systems on the bike to begin to eliminate electrical/fuel cut.
Good luck.
Fuel Pump -

- So I will check the manual and see how to properly test, but here's a video of when I did test it.

Prime Test:

Crank Test:

It really seems like there's plenty of fuel getting pumped. But I suppose you could be right, I'll refer to the manual, thank you.

Bypass Safety Lockout -

- Any guides on how to do this? I'm guessing i'll have to use resistors or something to bypass the safety lockout?

Does the tip-over switch in the fairing allow a short idle like described?
I would also like to know, from my experience working on other bikes a tip over switch or kick stand switch, etc. Wouldn't ever allow a bike to idle even for a second.
 

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Tip over switch cuts the fuel in the event of a wreck. So you are correct. The bike would not fire at all. However, the bike may be intermittently ceasing to provide fuel or spark.
All things are suspect at this point in the diagnosis. Begin with fuel delivery, then move on to electrical.
If it fires and has good compression, I would lean towards proper fuel delivery.
I have had fuel pumps appear to provide fuel only to be properly diagnosed as faulty. This may not be the case here, however the manual has a clear and direct plan of attack to eliminate scenarios to prevent you from throwing parts at the bike etc.
Good luck.
 

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Why did you delete the pair system?
Curious which side of the motor was damaged
Most likely the bike was running properly before the crash
I would back track to things you've done
The fuel pump sounds normal to me
The starting doesn't . Almost as if the timing is way off or bad battery connection
Also if the idle is below 900 rpm it will shut down
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tip over switch cuts the fuel in the event of a wreck. So you are correct. The bike would not fire at all. However, the bike may be intermittently ceasing to provide fuel or spark.
All things are suspect at this point in the diagnosis. Begin with fuel delivery, then move on to electrical.
If it fires and has good compression, I would lean towards proper fuel delivery.
I have had fuel pumps appear to provide fuel only to be properly diagnosed as faulty. This may not be the case here, however the manual has a clear and direct plan of attack to eliminate scenarios to prevent you from throwing parts at the bike etc.
Good luck.

Thank you for all your help.

Currently I've set my sights onto the cranking issue, with the grinding sound I'm hearing. Mainly because i'm worried that a tooth might have chipped and I don't want to cause damage to the engine.

I'm going to remove the starter and try inspecting what I can. If I don't see anything immediately wrong then i'll go ahead and re-install it and start diagnosing the fuel pump then if that checks out then i'll go ahead and check the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why did you delete the pair system?
Curious which side of the motor was damaged
Most likely the bike was running properly before the crash
I would back track to things you've done
The fuel pump sounds normal to me
The starting doesn't . Almost as if the timing is way off or bad battery connection
Also if the idle is below 900 rpm it will shut down
Thanks for your help! :)

I removed the PAIR just because I wanted to replace the spark plugs and radiator and I figured while I was down there i'd delete the PAIR just for fun.

The damage was on the right side, it was the cam chain cover... so I guess it is possible that some debris got in there and caused it to maybe jump a tooth? I'm not sure though, because it doesn't make any strange noises when it does run. It sounds fine. And before I changed the cover I went ahead and drained the oil, found no metal at all or in the oil filter. Both were good. I also stuck a camera in there as far as I could to look around for any damage and saw none (although I could hardly get a good view in there so that certainly doesn't rule it out)
 
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