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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My buddy has a "14" with approximately 4000 miles on it. He recently made five consecutive passes at the strip (no waiting in the staging lanes). After the last pass the clutch wouldn't disengage until the bike cooled.:headscratch Thinking that this may be a one time anomoly, he went to the track last night on the "14". This time it took only one pass for the clutch to become unresponsive.:rant I checked on the bike every so often as it was cooling, and could feel the clutch begin to slowly respond to input from the lever.:banghead Has anyone out there experienced anything like this on their "14's"? Much thanks in advance for your help on the matter.:respect --- NoGoodMike
 

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No, but haven't pushed the clutch that hard consecutivly either. I have'nt expereinced any slippage or sticking yet think you might have caused some overheat damage to the plates?
 

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Me neither. Haven't experienced any of the above mentioned. Either your plates can't handle the pressure and overheating or you are using low quality oil? Just speculating. Just my 2 cents...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Slippage or Oil?

I don't believe it's the plates because he said that he's experiencing "no slippage". He clutchless shifts so he would defenitely notice any abnormal slippage on the 1 - 2 shift. He's been using synthetic oil for the current life of the vehicle so I doubt that it's a low quality oil issue.:headscratch
 

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If he only has 4000 miles on it then it may still be under the factory waranty. They will not fix it because they will call it normal wear and tear however, if you take it back to the dealer as a warranty claim they have to do a diagnostic and tell you what is wrong free of charge just in case it is a factory defect. Just a little trick as long as it is still under warranty. It will not be fixed obviously but at least there will be no guessing at what to repair or replace.
 

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If he only has 4000 miles on it then it may still be under the factory waranty. They will not fix it because they will call it normal wear and tear however, if you take it back to the dealer as a warranty claim they have to do a diagnostic and tell you what is wrong free of charge just in case it is a factory defect. Just a little trick as long as it is still under warranty. It will not be fixed obviously but at least there will be no guessing at what to repair or replace.
Just a Heads-up. The dealer will not diag for free just because the bike is still under warranty. The diag becomes free once it is determined that the condition described is a warrantable repair. If the condition is not covered warranty, the customer will be responsible for the diag costs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The last time that we went to the track (the night before I posted the thread) I did in fact bleed, both the master and slave cylinders, as a precaution (my apologies for not mentioning it earlier). There was nothing irregular about the fluid (bubbles or "trash"). As far as the "Kawi" shop running a diagnostic on the vehicle, I believe that will be a waste of time. Although I do appreciate the suggestion. The 14 operates just fine under normal riding conditions. Thus the "wrench" would have to burn out and subsequently launch the bike hard (at least a couple of times) in order to recreate the issue. I'm thinking that the "gremlin" lies within the slave cylinder assembly (return spring, piston, or oil seal). We'll be trailering the bike to the track this Friday. Given the amount of "cool down" time required for the clutch to release, via input from the lever, we should be able to locate the problem's source. Thanks for the input everyone. Please, keep the suggestions coming. ---> NoGoodMike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The trip to the track didn't materialize. Foul weather prevented any action over the entire weekend. We'll try again as soon as possible. I'll post what we found as soon as we get the chance to tear into it. NoGoodMike
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just for shits and grins, my buddy opened up the clutch cover. All of the "steels" were warped and the friction plates were "toast". My partner ordered up some special high strength "steels", and installed them with new friction plates. I was hoping that it might be something simple and cheap but ... . Thanks for the input everyone. ----> NoGoodMike
 

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FWIW, the magazine testers and even Brock all rave about the the 14's clutch standing up to abuse. I don't race, but seems like most of the guys who do leave around 4000 rpm. Just wondering how he was able to frag the plates that bad?
 
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