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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem with the clutch on my ’93 ZX11 C4 that has me stumped.

First ride this spring found the revs rising like a slipping clutch when accelerating hard in the lower gears. So, without first checking the condition of the clutch, I ordered a new set of friction plates.

On inspection, the old plates looked almost new and were still in thickness spec; measured the spring height, in spec. Metal plates are not scored, warped or blue.

Installed the replacement plates anyway. Still slipped, as badly as before. Back to the shop.

Cleaned the master cylinder, rebuilt the slave with a new spacer-gasket, spring and seal, re-greased the pushrod, flushed the system, new fluid and bled.

The clutch engaged smoothly, but it still slips – just as it had before.

The pressure plate and hub show no signs of scoring, bluing or other obvious wear. I've always run Kawasaki 4-stroke motorcycle oil, never car oil.

Other than the hub or pressure plate, any ideas?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Don't really know but could the shift forks be bent? Would that cause it to slip? That just might cause it to slip out of gear and not slip like the clutch ingaging. Good luck and when you find the problem please let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Don't really know but could the shift forks be bent? Would that cause it to slip? That just might cause it to slip out of gear and not slip like the clutch ingaging. Good luck and when you find the problem please let us know.
I really hadn't thought about skipping in gear, but thanks for the idea.

The revs rise smoothly with no noise; I'm pretty sure it's the clutch slipping. I'm going to order a heavy-duty set of clutch springs. Although they're in spec, heightwise, they're the only other component I can think of.
 

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This happened to me. (91ZX11C) When I concluded that I needed to really check mastercylinder function, I missed the fact that the little return bleed hole was glogged. The brake fluid had formed CLEAR a skin over the hole. The system would not come back to neutral pressure on the output side hence the clutch would not completly engage. Also,,,,,,,,after correcting this, I failed to re-install the push rod (between lever and piston) with the correct end in. After re-assembly, I could not get hydraulic pressure until I flipped it around. Pay attention when you take the Master apart. I took this for granted and it cost me a trip the bike shop with the Master in my hand.
 

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Another thing to check is the clutch basket itself. Remeber, the plates between the friction plates are generally steel while the clutch basket is aluminium and can wear at a greater rate than the steel plates and can cause a shift toward the push-rod causing slip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

I'll take the M/C apart again and reflush. I thought the problems was with the slave cylinder not completely retracting, but it may be the master instead.

The pressure plate and hub show no obvious signs of scoring or wear, plus the original friction plates were almost like new and I would think they would show wear first. Anyone know the service-limit thickness specs on the pressure plate? I don't see that number in my service manual.

There's a new set of heavier clutch springs on their way, just in case.

Thanks again.
 
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