You're spot on. Don't need help from us. Doesn't look like your first rodeo either.I'm discovering some interesting wiring solutions on my new 1995 ZX-7.
The first thing I noticed, the orange and green wire from the main switch to the headlights was cut, and the headlights were wired directly to the battery with some inline fuses.
View attachment 21775
I corrected this and started going through the rest of the wiring. I found the 6v grey wire between the main switch and ignitor was also cut and spliced with a new wire in the middle (a higher gauge than the original grey wire...is that an issue?). Then I went to look at the main fuse on the starter solenoid, and the connector was stuck.
Some "gentle" persuasion later I discovered this.
View attachment 21777
Rhut-roh.
The 30amp fuse was melted, but not broken (weird?)
I'm now guessing the headlight re-wiring was to reduce the amount of power going through the main fuse to try and prevent this from happening/getting worse.
Looking at the 30amp fuse holder, it is rather corroded. I'm wondering if the corrosion built up resistance and that's what contributed to the build-up of heat and this disaster.
I'm open to other ideas.
Now I'm weighing whether I should open up the whole harness and look for issues that may have contributed to this...or just blow the few hundred bucks on a new harness...which appears to be available from Kawasaki.
Wiring fun
I'm discovering some interesting wiring solutions on my new 1995 ZX-7.
The first thing I noticed, the orange and green wire from the main switch to the headlights was cut, and the headlights were wired directly to the battery with some inline fuses.
![Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas]()
I corrected this and started going through the rest of the wiring. I found the 6v grey wire between the main switch and ignitor was also cut and spliced with a new wire in the middle (a higher gauge than the original grey wire...is that an issue?). Then I went to look at the main fuse on the starter solenoid, and the connector was stuck.
Some "gentle" persuasion later I discovered this.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Finger]()
Rhut-roh.
The 30amp fuse was melted, but not broken (weird?)
I'm now guessing the headlight re-wiring was to reduce the amount of power going through the main fuse to try and prevent this from happening/getting worse.
Looking at the 30amp fuse holder, it is rather corroded. I'm wondering if the corrosion built up resistance and that's what contributed to the build-up of heat and this disaster.
I'm open to other ideas.
Now I'm weighing whether I should open up the whole harness and look for issues that may have contributed to this...or just blow the few hundred bucks on a new harness...which appears to be available from Kawasaki.
The first thing I noticed, the orange and green wire from the main switch to the headlights was cut, and the headlights were wired directly to the battery with some inline fuses.
I corrected this and started going through the rest of the wiring. I found the 6v grey wire between the main switch and ignitor was also cut and spliced with a new wire in the middle (a higher gauge than the original grey wire...is that an issue?). Then I went to look at the main fuse on the starter solenoid, and the connector was stuck.
Some "gentle" persuasion later I discovered this.
Rhut-roh.
The 30amp fuse was melted, but not broken (weird?)
I'm now guessing the headlight re-wiring was to reduce the amount of power going through the main fuse to try and prevent this from happening/getting worse.
Looking at the 30amp fuse holder, it is rather corroded. I'm wondering if the corrosion built up resistance and that's what contributed to the build-up of heat and this disaster.
I'm open to other ideas.
Now I'm weighing whether I should open up the whole harness and look for issues that may have contributed to this...or just blow the few hundred bucks on a new harness...which appears to be available from Kawasaki.
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