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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Folks,

Bike is an 09 SE
25,400 Km
15,782 Miles

I know most people said wait a little longer before getting the valves done. Even my mechanic said he rarely sees 14's out of spec so soon. Not in my case.

All exhaust valves were out of spec and 3 intake were out of spec, as well.

Riding style is spirited and she will she redline at some point of every ride.

Took her for a 220 mile ride today and I do notice an improvement. A lot smoother and a little more responsive. At least that's what the Butt Dyno tells me. For anyone who goes hard on their 14, I suggest sticking to the recommended maintenance schedule. Ride Safe!



Dave.
 

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Looks good bro!
 

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That's what I've heard too, but I think they have it mixed up. The most important adjustment has been the initial one. Could have been done earlier too on both my bikes. Subsequent adjustments & intervals have turned out to be far less important.

Glad to see you're happy and nice scenic pic too!
 

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15750m seems early for valve inspection with under-bucket shims. The first valve inspection on the new '12 model is at 42000km, 26000miles. What's the recommended schedule on the earlier models?
 

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The most important valve adjustment is the one you skip causing a valve to go to zero clearance. This can not only cause loss of performance via lowered compression, but is also hard on the cam because there's no gap for lubrication to get between the cam and the bucket. At worst, a valve or seat could burn necessitating teardown and repair.

If you can't adjust your own valves and can't afford to have a shop do it, you probably can't afford the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
According to my manual, the first valve check is at 24,000km or 15K Miles.

Also agree with Hammerhead. If you're planning on keeping the bike for any length of time, it's better to pay a little now, or a lot later if you happen burn a valve.
 

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The most important valve adjustment is the one you skip causing a valve to go to zero clearance. This can not only cause loss of performance via lowered compression, but is also hard on the cam because there's no gap for lubrication to get between the cam and the bucket. At worst, a valve or seat could burn necessitating teardown and repair.

If you can't adjust your own valves and can't afford to have a shop do it, you probably can't afford the bike.
I know all about the dangers of zero valve clearance. I've done the valves on all af my bikes for the last 30 years, primarily because I didn't trust a dealer to do them, including the 20 valve exup motor and if you can do them on those you can do them on anything. The hardest bit of any valve job is actually getting your hands to fit in there.

Just looked at the schedule for the '12 ZX14R and the first valve check is at 15000m whereas the '12 ZZR1400 is at 26000m and apart from ABS and colour options it's the same bike?!?!?!
 

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I know all about the dangers of zero valve clearance. I've done the valves on all af my bikes for the last 30 years, primarily because I didn't trust a dealer to do them, including the 20 valve exup motor and if you can do them on those you can do them on anything. The hardest bit of any valve job is actually getting your hands to fit in there.

Just looked at the schedule for the '12 ZX14R and the first valve check is at 15000m whereas the '12 ZZR1400 is at 26000m and apart from ABS and colour options it's the same bike?!?!?!
ZZR 1400 (Euro version of ZX-14) valve adjustment interval is probably 26000 kilometers rather than miles.
 

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I wonder if they were a bit misadjusted from the onset, or during the 600/1000 mile checkup and oil change.

I had a brand new Yamaha Seca 650 that ran horribly from purchase, which, after three return attempts, I called Yamaha in California and they recommended a different Dealership (my current one in Hicksville which more focuses on Kawis) and according to them the valves were never adjusted from the crate :eek:hno.

For any Tri-Staters, the bad dealership was called King Cycle in Brooklyn, NY. In all fairness, this was in 1982.
 

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I wonder if they were a bit misadjusted from the onset, or during the 600/1000 mile checkup and oil change.

That's my thinking. The 600 mile service does not include a valve check but if the bike left the factory with the valve gaps on the tight side of the specs then they may close up and be out of spec earlier than those on a bike with gaps at the higher end??
 

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I remember doing them myself on my ZRX1100.I did them at about 10,000 miles.Most of them were too tight.It was easier due to not being shim under buckets.I will have these done and plugs with TBs synked at 10,000.Unless I get a port job next winter.Then everything will be done then.
Craig
 

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I had mine checked at 23,000kms and at 55,000kms. minor adjustements only. Most were in spec.

On my 2012 I will follow a similar schedule. Good tim eto change the plugs as well as they are a pain in the ass to get at.
 

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Hey Folks,

Bike is an 09 SE
25,400 Km
15,782 Miles

I know most people said wait a little longer before getting the valves done. Even my mechanic said he rarely sees 14's out of spec so soon. Not in my case.

All exhaust valves were out of spec and 3 intake were out of spec, as well.

Riding style is spirited and she will she redline at some point of every ride.

Took her for a 220 mile ride today and I do notice an improvement. A lot smoother and a little more responsive. At least that's what the Butt Dyno tells me. For anyone who goes hard on their 14, I suggest sticking to the recommended maintenance schedule. Ride Safe!



Dave.
did you adjust the valves yourself?
 

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I had the valves on my 07 done at 15000 miles and again at 33000 miles (this winter). Most of them were out of spec and needed adjustment the first time they were done and all were still within spec when I did them recently. My bike gets ridden and sees the upper end of the rpm range everytime it leaves the garage.
 

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The ZZR1400(euro) has 42 000km before valve check.
Why whould ther be diffrenc on the ZX14 and the ZZR1400?<
Any thoughts?
 
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