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Wanting to ge a new set of sprockets and new chain and I also want to go 1 down (front) and 2 up in the rear, do I have to go with a 520 chain and sprockets and if so is it better with this setup? What do I have to look out for?
 

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You don't have to go with a 520 setup. The main reason why people switch to a 520 setup is it is a lighter setup and sometimes cheaper than stock. Just make sure you get a decent chain to go with the gears and it's strong enough for your bike.
 

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I base chain and sprocket choice based on the type of riding and how often I lube the chain. If it's for daily riding, then I'd go with vortex steel sprockets and a DID chain. Or an EK if it's cheaper. 525
 

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520 works just the same as 525. People with literbikes run 520 chains all day, they'll hold if you get a nice one. stay away from anything cheap (lower than $90 or so)

If you want to just go faster, I have a 15t 525 sprocket I'll sell you cheap that will work with your stock setup if you just take the slack out of the chain.

15/43 is a good ratio. 15/45 is better if it's a weekend warrior kind of bike and you're not commuting a lot.
 

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i do alot of commuting but i would like to ramp up the accel. so is the 15/45 the prefered gearing for upping the accel without slashing too much up top?
 

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oh boys. i have an amazing link for you. something i put a bit of time into. in fact, lemme just post the pic here. easier anyways. this is basically a spreadsheet depicting a bunch of information about sprockets' gearing ratios and wear/tear factors. on alot of our bikes, stock is the 16/43 which presents the corresponding 2.68 gear ratio and 344 wear factor. the thing to keep in mind is that you want Wear factor high as possible, unless u wanna replace sprockets and chains alot. also, notice, the most common 15/45 change leads to a nearly 11.6% change in gear ratio - increasing torque low end and decreasing top end speed. the 15/45 however greatly reduces the wear factor!! there are several sprocket combinations that lead to a higher low end torque, i used to have a 14/43 combo that yielded a 14% change (better than 15/45) and still maintained a high wear factor. i currently run a 15/43 setup and have a 6.66% change in torque and maintain a relatively good wear factor.

now, almost Anyone you talk to is always going on n on about a -1/+2 setup to a 15/45... i know it runs great, but for someone looking to get a lil more longevity out of their chain/sprockets, just do a lil homework. i've done plenty and trying to display it for us all ;)



here's some background info on the numbers displayed above, explaining the meanings:

'Same tooth - same link' chain rotations
Besides obvious factors for chain wear like not enough maintenance (i.e. greasing it) and misalignment of sprockets and chain, the chain will simply wear out more when it is used more ..... Especially if the same tooth hits the same link all the time the chain wears out faster then when that tooth hits another link instead. Whether or not this will happen depends on the combination of teeth and chain links. Three type of combinations are possible:

1) Worst: every chain rotation, the sprockets (front or rear or both) are at the same position
2) Better: it takes more then one chain rotation for it to hit the same tooth with the same link
3) Optimal: it takes the maximum number of chain rotations for it to hit the same tooth with the same link

Table "Same tooth - Same Link" shows what type of combinations you have or are about to get. This by showing the actual number of chain rotations and marking them red when 'Worst', green for 'Optimal' and not for 'Better'.

Number of contacts
Another factor that influences the chain wear is of course the number of contacts a tooth has with links and the other way around for the chain, the number of contacts a link has with teeth. The more hits, the faster the wear ! So obviously, the more you use your bike, the more the final drive will wear out. But changing the final drive does not make you use your bike more or less, it just changes the use of the final drive when driving the same distance as before.

That is also why changing the rear sprocket, say bigger, wears out the front more when driving the same distance .....
Therefore the table "Tooth-Links contacts & Link-Teeth contacts" shows the number of contacts between teeth and links, for every driven mile or kilometer.

Info from: http://gearingcommander.com/ : please take a look at the site's HELP menus
 

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what is the best brand for a chain and sprocket set and what would be the best set up?
i run a 15/43 setup with a Renthal 525 R4 SRS Road Chain 525x110 and Renthal sprockets. that setup cost me about $220 and i did the install myself, saved prob 100 on labor.

if you look at the chart i posted above, my setup runs about 6.66% more torque on bottom end, but loses about the same on speed up top. it has about half the lifetime as a stock setup will.

otherwise, "best setup" and "best brand" is totally opinion. it all depeds on how you ride, how you maintain the bike, and a preference on brand.
 

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Just for the record, I would avoid running a 14t sprocket on a zx7r swingarm, it's too tall on the front and the chain will rub too much.

Have a zx6/10r or factory swingarm? then 14t is great!
+1 on gearingcommander, i love it ;)
as for the 14t sprocket, i had it on my 95 zx7 and didnt have any rub, ran it for about 6 months like that... but i run 15t on my 99 zx7 now and love it, with no problems.

anyways, what do you think of the anti- 15/45 comment? i know Everyone and their sister likes to run it... i hear the 1/3 ratio is "the best ever" all the time lol.
 

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I'm a top end monster.. currently have 18/40. Going to replace with 17/43-45 dpending on whats available on ebay and in my wallet. I run an EK 530 chain
 

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I'm a top end monster.. currently have 18/40. Going to replace with 17/43-45 dpending on whats available on ebay and in my wallet. I run an EK 530 chain
wow! 18/40 is about 17% less torque bottom end... but doesnt exactly translate to 17% higher top speed... whats your top speed been clocked at? usually the amount of wind resistance at that speed is so great, that these bikes just dont have the sheer Power to overcome it. 185mph is pretty much the top.. unless you have heavily mod'd the engine. although, "cruising" at 6000 rpm in 6th is doin about 102 mph instead of the 80 i'm doing, i like it ;)
 

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I wasn't able to clock my top speed yet. 2nd gear is my city gear and I could comfortably cruise in 4th on the hwy. I do however switch into 6th and I go 85mph-90mph on the inside lane turning low rpms(I cant remember exactly). But I did high 90's in 2nd turning 12k rpm :crazyloco
 

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well i have a sssa from a vfr will it change what set up i get
to be honest, i'm not sure what the length is on the swing arm from the vfr - is it different from the stock length?? if it is the same length, there is no change in sprockets/chain... if it is shorter, you may need less than a 110 link chain... if the swing arm is longer than stock, you may need a chain with more links... but if you stay around stock sprocket sizes, like only +/- 1/2, you should be fine with 110 link standard.

side note: i'd love to see a pic of that swing arm conversion ;) pleeeeeeeeeease!
 
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