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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

just put new pads and bleed all the system with new dot4 fluid, but the brakes still feel too soft. I read that motul rbf 600 is a help to be more responsive to the touch. What you advice?

cheers
 

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Hi,

just put new pads and bleed all the system with new dot4 fluid, but the brakes still feel too soft. I read that motul rbf 600 is a help to be more responsive to the touch. What you advice?

cheers
Re-bleed the system, starting with master cylinder, then the clutch side (farthest away from the master cylinder), and finally the clutch side. I guarantee you there is still air in the lines if the lever pull still feels soft.

My method for the actual "bleeding" process is to pump the lever crazy to build up the pressure in the lines, and the barely open the bleeder valve to let the air out. You may have to repeat this step several times, but whatever your method, you definitely need to bleed the master cylinder first to get all the air out.

Also, make sure you keep the master cylinder filled with fluid.
 

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I have a somewhat unorthodox method for bleeding motorcycle brakes.

But it works fantastic.

Get some clear tubing long enough to connect to the left side caliper that can reach the reservoir.

Always make sure the reservoir is full during the process!

Crack the bleeder and start pumping away. You'll start filling the tubing and you will see the air bubbles coming out. Keep pumping until the bubbles stop or you can continue pumping the lever until you achieve a "closed-loop" system.

If you still have bubbles after going into closed loop you have air entering the system from somewhere.

Once the left caliper is bled, then move to the right caliper. Which will be easy since the tubing will be full of fluid and will achieve "closed-loop" pretty quick. Just be carefull you don't splatter or drip fluid on painted parts.

The rear brake is even easier since the tubing doesn't have to be so long.

That's how I do motorcycle brakes. One man operation and works like a charm for me.

Josh
 

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You are doing it the hard way. A jar with a metal lid and some tubing... Punch a hole in the lid, put the tubing into the thing so it sits at the bottom, then put a few ounces of brake fluid in the jar.

Make sure the line is full of fluid with no air as well. No chance of sucking fluid back up into the caliper.

OR, you can spend 20 bucks, buy a cheap vacuum bleeder, and it is 100% easier than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Will a new brake lines also reduce the spongy feeling?
 

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I said my way was somewhat unorthodox and yet it works perfectly fine.

For cars I just install speed bleeders and not worry about it.

Josh
 

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Bullitt has a neat idea... and i would try it once just to see how it works... seems like it would work

personally I like my speed bleeders and a vacuum pump... but not everyone will spend the money.
 

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I've never gotten along with the mity-vac route. Maybe I just had a retarded one back in the day, but it never worked right.

The best feature for the continuous loop system is you can then just pump away clearing out all the air. Running a line into a jar just means constantly having to re-fill the reservoir.

I'm also a fan of gravity bleeding, but it is slow and if there are any horizontal or uphill runs in the brake lines it doesn't work as well. Works good for clutches... Especially the bastard clutch system on Ford Rangers and Explorers.

Josh
 

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Using just a glass jar with a metal lid and some tubing is damn near free, and easy.

Using a vacuum bleeder still requires you to fill the reservoir too. Closed loop sort of requires that you have good, clean fluid in the lines to begin with though.
 
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