Kawasaki Ninja ZX Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got her brand new (05 636) ...never had any problems. Last week i finally got my new pipe...(leo vince carbon slip-on) which by the way i love.:crazyloco ok, so here is the problem....I went to go for a ride tonight and when I got about 8 turns into the road...the bike died, no sputter, no nothing...just like if i hit the kill switch. And then it wouldn't start back up for a couple minutes. Luckily there was a little turn out where it died. Flipped a bitch and after a few tries made it up to the top of the road and to a gas station. Sat there for about a half hour and fired it up and came home...only died once on the way but it was just down the street and started back up. When i got to the house i took off my gear and fired the bike back up. It would run at idle for a little bit then start to slowly go down....eventually gettin below 500 rpm and die...WTF!!! anyone esle know what's going on. I'm not sure if it has to do with the heat...i don't see why it would...or maybe i should just get a PC III ...but i don't wanna kick down $250-$300 for something that won't fix the prob. SO for now I guess i'm grounded, i don't wanna get stranded on a road with blind turns and no shoulder....Any help would be appreciated....I'm gonna check with the local shop too, see if they got any idea.....:headscratch :banghead
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
check your idle or maybe the battery not fully charged maybe bad gas ..buy a battery tender and charge it see if it works....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
Got her brand new (05 636) ...never had any problems. Last week i finally got my new pipe...(leo vince carbon slip-on) which by the way i love.:crazyloco ok, so here is the problem....I went to go for a ride tonight and when I got about 8 turns into the road...the bike died, no sputter, no nothing...just like if i hit the kill switch. And then it wouldn't start back up for a couple minutes. Luckily there was a little turn out where it died. Flipped a bitch and after a few tries made it up to the top of the road and to a gas station. Sat there for about a half hour and fired it up and came home...only died once on the way but it was just down the street and started back up. When i got to the house i took off my gear and fired the bike back up. It would run at idle for a little bit then start to slowly go down....eventually gettin below 500 rpm and die...WTF!!! anyone esle know what's going on. I'm not sure if it has to do with the heat...i don't see why it would...or maybe i should just get a PC III ...but i don't wanna kick down $250-$300 for something that won't fix the prob. SO for now I guess i'm grounded, i don't wanna get stranded on a road with blind turns and no shoulder....Any help would be appreciated....I'm gonna check with the local shop too, see if they got any idea.....:headscratch :banghead
As far as i know, when you change the pipe or slip on, the back pressure drops hence the name free flow. This means that your idle will drop or become erratic in most cases, both. When i put my ARATA on my 636 my idle dropped by 700rpm and became very erratic and all i did was turn the idle screw up till 1300rpm which worked but didnt solve the erratic idle.

When i got my ZX10, i put the full ARATA system on and the same thing happened so i did the same thing which worked and then put the PCIII on it and it made a world of difference to the bike, idle and performance and delivery of power.

I say, get the PCIII and you wont look back as it is a great item to have
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
check your idle or maybe the battery not fully charged maybe bad gas ..buy a battery tender and charge it see if it works....
Start with this. I was moving a bike a few weeks ago. The lights didn't work on the bike for the first time in 30 years, so I needed to get home before sundown. I figured it was just a fuse or something. Anyway, about 1.5 hrs into the ride the bike started to sputter like it was out of gas. So I switched to reserve and kept going. Didn't help. The bike lost all power at full throttle on I-476. I managed to get another mile on the side of the road and half throttle, but the bike was slowing down. It died. I cursed. Started it again about a minute later. Same shit. Made it to a gas station. Filled it and emptied the bowl incase it was moisture related. Started it... anyway.... The f'ing battery bolt came loose and the ground was disconnected. Battery had also been almost dead the whole ride so that's why the lights didn't work. Or the electric start. New battery and bolts (tightened well) the bike ran great and started within seconds everytime with the electric start. Although every single bulb on the bike had blown from the cable bouncing around. That wasn't cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the advice...i'll check it out, and i'm gonna get a pcIII too. The local shop also said they'd run my bike on the dyno until it acted up for free so i'll probably have them check it also....cause it idles fine for like the first half hour or so then gets all crazy.....we'll see
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I'd say check the idle, check the battery but hold off on the PCIII. Why spend more money when it could be a simple fix?

Generally what I hear from everyone that I have spoken with about exhausts is you'll benefit most from a Power Commander with a full system over a slip-on system. You'll be fiddling with numbers for hours just to get minimal results that you most likely won't notice anyway. Where as with a full system with PCIII you'd get a couple more HP and a smoother power band/torque range.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
ummm..i say take the muffler back off and see if it does that..
if it doesnt do it then it was because of the muffler...
i have a scorpion on mine and it doesnt do anything..not even when
its on one wheel!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
494 Posts
The powercommander is an interesting toy. Basically it allows you to alter the air/fuel mixture of the fuel injectors at any given throttle position. The bike comes with a certain "map" from factory. But it's a stock map - the same almost everywhere. When you get the powercommander on there you've got the option to build a custom map. Perfect Air/Fuel ratio through the entire throttle range.

If memory serves, the goal is 14 to 1. And can only be achieved with good accuracy by a shop that has a dyno and exhaust gas analyzer. You can buy preprogrammed ones off the net. But they're pretty hit and miss. You have to hope that the fuel map they built for you is the one that you need.


Anyways, fitting a new exhaust typically reduces back pressure which means you're flowing more air... with the same amount of fuel. Translation, you're running lean, and running hot. This isn't a problem initially, but depending what kind of pipe you're running, what kind of air filter you have installed, and what sort of riding conditions/style you have. You can potentially burn a valve or hole a piston. Expensive fix. A powercommander is what... $400? A new set of valves plus labour will run you well over $1000.

Everyone wants to sound cool. Just make sure that you do it the right way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
If rough idle is the case, then just readjust the throttle, and you shouldn't run into that problem anymore. Best of luck

IL
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top