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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I have a ZX7R (2000, P5) and trying to remove the silver camshaft cover to check the valve clearances.

The Haynes Manual makes it sound simple; Section 2A-7.5: "Carefully lift the cylinder head cover and ..."

I can't lift off the cover and initially assumed it was due to some dowels. However, on closer inspection I see a large-ish gap between the engine block and inside of the frame on the lhs and no gap on the rhs; ie the engine is not centrally positioned and preventing the cover from lifting straight off.

Is this a known problem?

Does anyone know a solution?

The only things I can think of are:

1) Undoing the lock nuts of the frame mounting bolts and trying to screw the bolts so the engine is centrally positioned to take the cover off.
2) Support the engine block from underneath on a jack, remove the engine frame bolts entirely and allow the engine block to lower slightly, still being pivoted by the swingarm bolt. Lowered just enough to remove the cover.

And if either of these work, afterwards return the engine block to the same left and right hand side gaps, which are presumably set for drive chain alignment.

And ideas, tips, etc welcome.

Thanks
Graham
 

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Mine was a bitch to get on and off as well. It may look impossible but with the right combination of wiggling (no force needed) there is a way to do it, I just can't remember what the exact trick was! After the fact, I remember reading somewhere on this forum a more specific technique.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm going to try:

1) Make a note of the original position of the engine block. I could measure the lhs gap and rhs gap (none) but intend measuring the amount of thread sticking out on the rhs threaded collar.
2) Support the engine block with a jack under the sump.
3) Remove the silencer so that the exhaust is only connected to the engine and free to move.
4) Free the radiator from the top 2 brackets which secure it to the frame. The lower 2 fixing points secure it to the engine. That way the radiator will be free to move slightly with the engine. The only other fixings are the rubber hoses, and hopefully enough play in them.
5) Undo the engine top bolts, one at a time. I intend to back off the lhs threaded collar and then return the bolt so the engine is still supported - just being careful. Then to remove the rhs bolt and screw inwards the threaded collar, hopefully squeezing in the engine block.
6) Loosen the locknuts using a homemade tool.
7) Screw in the threaded collar on the rhs as in point 4)
8) Remove the cover and return the engine block to where it was (point 1)) while I do the valve clearance bit.
9) Repeat the above process to put the cover back on, and finally returning the engine to its original position - it was where it was for a reason!

The tool/socket to remove the locknuts on the top threaded collars is no longer supplied by Kawasaki here in the UK, and thus had to cut out my own from a 24mm socket. I've now managed to free the locknuts. After spending a couple of hours cutting my own socket and freeing the lock nuts I went and took a rest!!

I noticed the threaded collars have an internal hex socket, and as a result look like they are designed for nudging the upper engine block slightly.

I'll continue tomorrow to see if the above approach works. I think the top of the engine block just needs to move a few millimetres and I could get the cover off. But as it is, it's tight against the inside of the frame. It won't wiggle off as I tried and tried and you have to be careful not to damage the internal components.
 

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The tool/socket to remove the locknuts on the top threaded collars is no longer supplied by Kawasaki here in the UK, and thus had to cut out my own from a 24mm socket. I've now managed to free the locknuts. After spending a couple of hours cutting my own spcket and freeing the lock nuts I went and took a rest!!
I made my own tool too, but it was a bit crap. So I just bought one: Kawasaki ZX7R 1996-2003 Engine Mount Socket Tool | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I made my own tool too, but it was a bit crap. So I just bought one: Kawasaki ZX7R 1996-2003 Engine Mount Socket Tool | eBay
Thanks for that. Forgot to look up good old eBay! The tool I cut seems to work fine but maybe I was lucky and not faced with seized locknuts, although having said that I did spray in lots of penetrant before attempting to loosen them. If they were seized would probably need the exact tool to free them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to sum up in case anyone else has this problem. The above outlined steps allowed me to remove the cover. Once the engine block was centrally positioned the cover came off fairly easily with a bit of wiggling.

Glad I persisted as I found that the dreaded rubber camchain guide has a split in it - what a design fault that was. BTW, another good reason why this cover should lift off straight, so that this guide is not knocked off position reinstalling the cover. Anyway - that is another story!
 
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