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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

i know its a dumb question, but i was wondering if i could just run 10W-40 regular royal purple in my 10R. i have 10 quarts left over. I bought a buch in bulk for my evo. I know the only thing different in motorcycle or car oil is the extra additives. Would it be ok in my bike? For the motor, warranty etc? Anyone done this?

Any replies welcome
Thanks
 

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oil !

The thing about oil for most of us...I would think well over 80% of the sportbike riders out there....is that we change our oil so often that it really does not matter if you put cheap of expensive oil in the bike ! Most guys I talk to change the oil ever 3 -4 K and some even sooner, by that time the oil is still in very good shape. Racers of course will do it more often as they put extreame wear on the motors but for your average street rider you will have no issues with just regular oil.

2 cents
 

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I look at it this way......You bought a motorcycle. The oil is motorcycle oil. I'm not willing to take a chance at problems. There are obviously questions or we wouldn't have this thread. I want to protect my investment and the price between the two oils means nothing to me. I just don't understand the thinking of running to the store to purchase regular oil when there are shelves of oil that state they're motorcycle specific.....AND YOU OWN A MOTORCYCLE.
 

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Here is a link to a Consumers Reports oil test. They used a bunch of New York City taxis to test a variety oils over about two years and 60,000 miles with regular 6,000 mile oil changes.

Prior to starting the test they dissassembled each engine and measured critical parts. After the test they took the engines apart again and remeasured the same parts to determine wear.

The bottom line was that there was no difference in wear between one oil and another. Synthetic didn't do any better than regular. On some taxis they even skipped a 6,000 mile change and did it at 12,000. Didn't make a difference.

This is the only oil test I've ever seen that measured actual wear from one oil to another.

I agree with Groundpounder. Any oil that meets the manufacturer's rating and viscosity requirements will do, as long as they don't have the "energy conserving" marking. The "energy conserving" additive can cause wet clutch slippage.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm
 

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Greasy !!

We all have our own ideas about oil so I will through in my 2 cents....20 years ago motorcycle engines were made of things like aluminum and stainless steel. You changed your oil every 4 or 5 K and the thing ran like a top. Jump ahead 20 years and egines for the large part are still made of aluminum and steel, however now a days oil is light years ahead of what it used to be. The engine components that need lubrication really have not changed but the oil sure has yet most of us still have that old school mentality that really expensive oil is better for the motor. The absolute cheapest oil you can buy today is 100 times better then the best stuff you could buy 20 years ago, but it for some reason is not good enough for the same old stainless steal engine of today. If putting expensive oil in your bike makes you feel good then do it...if cheap is what you like then do that. Change your oil at 3K is what you do then do it, change it at 8K your thing then do it. We all have our own reasons for what we do....My rule when I buy new oil is to head out to may local Walmart or Autozone shop and I pick the oil that has the fanciest bottle and label !!! You should see the looks I get when the guy behind the counter finds out I am putting cheapy oil in my 20 grand Ducati, I get a kick out of it realy. I use basic oil and change it about every 5K.....runs like a top !
 

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i personally run m/c oil in my bikes but i used to run castrol gtx for years and years (thank you motorcycle consumer news) and i never had a motor related issue and i ride my bikes alot esspecially back then, the key to any oil is changing it & the filter, i also used to know a guy that had a 90 zx-6 & he never changed the oil & when he did he put whatever was in the garage IE....mobil1,castrol.......etc so he had mixed brands and weights and that bike still ran strong @ 40,000 until it got totaled
 

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If oil is 5 -50 wt

or whatever, its oil, it all adds up to the same specs

Burn me in hell but i drop the oil every 2 track days and i use the old stuff to oil my chain

Will i burn in hell for this?

Nope, didnt think so :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ya, i talked to a buddy of mine, he has 5 bikes, he uses regular royal purple in his bikes and cars, that what i did.
 

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looks like I am a loner here but in a high performance machine like this zx10 I will only run a full syn. MOTORCYCLE OIL. to me its common sense, use whats made for the bike. those royal purple guys aren't testing their oil in race bikes like silkolene or repsol. and I change it every 2500 mi. with the filter.:headscratch
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ya, i hear ya, i know its not needed but i change mine every 1500 miles with full synthetic royal purple, it one of the best
 

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i dont agree motorcycle oil has less stuff in it for the clutch and is for higher rpms! i always use amsoil ever 2500-4k period!

my 2 buddys run car oil and both replaced a clutch before 5k and ran bad time at the strip 650r fzr600

zx10 car oil clutch went out at 1k

everyone has there ways but for me its motorcycle oil only!

for all of you running car oil change it to amsoil just one time i bet you will feel a difference in power, shifting try it whats 20 bucks more!!!
 

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amsoil breaks down almost instantly but as long as you change it often its okay I prefer silkolene . My service manager has been running it in his 93 cr 250r since then and it still has the original clutch in it. thats impressive!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well, i got a case of royal purple max cycle motorcycle oil. I got a case discount and got that. Thats what i am running now
 

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yeah after going about 2k i notice a difference then after changing the oil its a big difference but owell what you gonna do? i will not put car oil in my bike!
 
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