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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
05' 636
Was running perfectly fine a couple days ago and now all of a sudden today it has a bit of a rough idle and runs like a dog until about 8k rpm. After that its fine. But until then its real rough and dodgey and really stumbles leaving a dead stop and kinda hard to get it going without killing it.
Sounds/feels like its only hitting on 3 cylinders. Idle and low revs its sounds like a buell
Any ideas? Should I check plugs/coils/ anything else
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just replaced the stator a few months ago to fix the opposite issue of complete power loss after about 10k. Would something else cause this besides stator?

It has about 15k miles on it. Bought it after the valve service interval so i don't know if previous owner had it done or not.
 

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Start up fine? Rides fine for about 20-30 minutes? Dies out at a light or stop sign?

Does the bike have a PC3? I had the same problem you're having about 2 weeks ago. I figured I'm not drag racing or GP riding so I took it off. Worked fine after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Used to have a PC3 but previous owner kept it. Starts up fine, doesnt ride fine anymore tho.

Is it a possibility of valve issues since it probably never had service done? It kinda acts like in a car with a dropped valve. But with a motor with such tight tolerances as this I wouldnt think it would be rideable at all. Would a compression check clear this and rule that problem out?
 

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i would personally think its not a valve problem for the fact that its clears up. Its funny what your describing is a dirty set of carbs so thats why i said either a voltage problem casuing the pump to be weak at idle. My 636 has gone through some abuse and i ride wheelies all day and it runs like a champ. I have had major electrical problem. Just my .2 but id get out the multi meter
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How would I go about testing the pump? I've had it out of the tank before but do I have to take it out to test its voltage or should I be doing the pump flow rate to check?
 

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there a couple ways to check that the easiest way is to take the seat off and with the multi meter set on DC hook the (+) to the yellow and red wire and put the (-) on the black and white wire i believe with that hooked up turn the key to on the voltage should be 12.8v for 3 seconds then back to 0v. You also sit there with it hooked up start it and rev to make sure its maintaining voltage
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I check the volt from pump and with ignition on it spiked to a little over 12v then to 0 like it should but running it's usually at 13.8/9 and jumps around to 6v 7v and saw a few 0v as well. However I'm not sure how accurate that is because of the wiring I had to rig together to test it while it was running and revving since I didn't have the proper connectors to actually be able to clip on. But could it really jump around that much? If it was bad would it ever get a full 13v reading?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just checked spark plugs and coils also. Coils all show in spec for the resistance values.

Could a bad stator also cause this problem, even tho I just replaced it last year?
 

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on an 05 valves dont need to be adjusted til 24k if you need a service manual send me your email and ill email you a copy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a service manual. Thanks tho.

Oh and I checked the stator it's good too. I'm just going to take it to the dealership I guess. I don't have time to keep screwing with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think I'll try a new pump before taking it to the shop. Can I replace just the pump motor or do I need the whole assembly? The motor is like 200 bucks cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Finally decided to dish out money for brand new pump. Pricey! But i was like 5 dollars below the free shipping discount so of course I had to add a new kevlar clutch to the bill ;)

Let you know if the pump fixes it later this week when they come in
 

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Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Stick coil wiring trouble
Stick coil not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter in ECU trouble
Camshaft position sensor trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Stick coil trouble
Immobilizer system trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
Pilot passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or miss-
ing
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel pump trouble
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened
down
APPENDIX 17-29
Troubleshooting Guide
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or
sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head warped
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,
worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)
Other:
IC igniter in ECU trouble
Throttle body assy not synchronizing
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Brake dragging
Air suction valve trouble
Vacuum switch valve trouble
Engine overheating
Clutch slipping

taken from the manual. Start narrowing it down :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's a long list! but I'll start on it this weekend. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Put in the brand new pump and still runs like crap. Out of that long list what would be the most likely or most common problem. Just my experience with cars it almost feels and acts like a vacuum leak. Anything to check in that direction?


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
 

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Vacuum Switch Valve Test
•Remove:
Vacuum Switch Valve (see Vacuum Switch Valve Re-
moval in this chapter)
•Connect a vacuum gauge [A] and syringe or fork oil
level gauge to the vacuum hoses as shown.
Special Tool - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290
Air Flow [C]
•Gradually raise the vacuum (lower the pressure) applied
to the vacuum switch valve, and check the valve opera-
tion. When the vacuum is low, the vacuum switch valve
should permit air to flow. When the vacuum raises to
valve closing pressure, it should stop air flow.
Spring [A]
Diaphragm
Valve [C]
Low Vacuum [D]
Secondary Air Flow [E]
If the vacuum switch valve does not operate as described,
replace it with a new one.
NOTE
○To check air flow through the vacuum switch valve, just
blow through the air cleaner hose.
Vacuum Switch Valve Closing Pressure (Open → Close)
Standard: 41 ∼ 49 kPa (310 ∼ 370 mmHg)
High Vacuum [A]
Secondary air cannot flow

Air Suction System
Air Suction System Damage Inspection
•Pull the vacuum switch valve hose [A] out of the air
cleaner.
•Start the engine and run it at idle speed.
•Plug the vacuum switch valve hose end with your finger
and feel vacuum pulsing in the hose.
If there is no vacuum pulsation, check the hose line for
leak. If there is no leak, check the vacuum switch valve
or air suction valve (see Vacuum Switch Valve Test, Air
Suction Valve Inspection in the Engine Top End chapter).

Better yet, message me your email, ill just send you the manual.
 
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