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see if my/car guys way works out
42/74 inlet 74-42 =32 40-32=8
8/2 =4 110 -4 = 106

iff you move the cam 5 degrees then the figures change 5 degrees
both ways ie 47/69 69-47= 22 40-22= 18 18/2 =9 110-9 =101lc

test it
 

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Discussion Starter #483
finally got some alone time with the Raptor. Figured out how to adjust the tension on the rear spindle on the RAM swingarm, so i installed countershaft sprocket, new chain, and adjusted it. Note all TI nuts and bolts on swingarm, spindle, etc....might get to start it this weekend

 

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Discussion Starter #486
BTW the std cross member is not sealed up and won't contain oil residue, it will leak from the inside down the down spars. There is, as always, more to it than first catches the eye. It wasn't a mod to a existing frame member, but a special item.
Not saying that you can do it, but there are other considerations. There are also drain bolts and drain tubes in the factory version.
 

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Do a kit tank on the subframe. It's your best bet.
Yes I think you are right, under the rear seat seems a logical place. Shame though as this looked nice and neat. I have no idea how people sealed up the cross member from the inside to contain the oil in one area.

I have had a few big tumbles this year that have wrecked my rear sub frame. Perhaps I need to find a non kit alternative that can be replaced easy. Not that I plan on crashing again of course :)
 

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Discussion Starter #490
I have lots of the kit catch tanks

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Discussion Starter #491
So ... updates:
I went to fill factory works radiators and coolant spilled right out, as there was a hole in the bottom of the upper works radiator. No Bueno! So off to storage unit to get a spare new Kit radiator.
Had to change out radiator mounts out as it required kit style.
Also, and this is HUGE bonus, the new kit radiator has no filler neck! Just elbow facing rearward. I have a couple remote fillers and now I know why, they mount on frame and connect via hose to this style.
The BONUS is that with this style the filler isn't hidden under the ram air intake duct and you have access to it any time, no necessity of removing fairing and duct to access filler......super cool.

So had to remove and reinstall everything: both radiators, carbon/kevlar shroud, kit overflow tank, brackets, coolant, etc.....looks great


 

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Discussion Starter #492
AND......finally started BOSTROM WSB motor.
Full of issues to do so:
1) Running Kit endurance harness 26030-1502, and no mention in kit manual of which starter relay to use, although it typically says what oem items to reuse with diffent kit configurations, no mention of starter relay is made. It does show starter relay in wiring diagram for endurance setup, but no idea of what gen or part#.
I kept blowing 20 amp fuse in starter relay using P model relay, and after ohming relay and new endurance harnes out, had to reverse wires in plug to starter relay in new endurance #1502 harness and finally it worked. After recieving a new 91-95 starter relay and seeing that they are wired in reverse, i think that the standard connection to endurance harness would work without change with earlier gen relay. Just FYI to anyone ever trying this...
2) Number 2 carb kept overflowing on new old stock, kitted, rebuild 41fcr. So i pulled off and found that the float needle and twisted sideways and the arms had hung up and locked the float in place.
Had to pull plugs and blow fuel out and prevent hydolock.
3) Fuel pump was not cooperating , so I installed one from Muzzy, marked Daytona 200 and it purrs
4) Accellerator pumps not working despite rebuilding and cleaning a second time....check valve may be stuck
5) needs bench sync as i installed Kit SS slide valves and it idles very rough and spits flame

IT LIVES!
 

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glad to hear its running, so close to being right. you must be chuffed with it.
are you putting it in for December's rotm?
been watching n re-reading this from the start
any chance of a few pics of where you mounted the coils and their brackets?
also the kit?/factory? upper fairing brackets?
oh yeah, amazing write up
 

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Discussion Starter #494
glad to hear its running, so close to being right. you must be chuffed with it.
are you putting it in for December's rotm?
been watching n re-reading this from the start
any chance of a few pics of where you mounted the coils and their brackets?
also the kit?/factory? upper fairing brackets?
oh yeah, amazing write up
No, thanks for the compliments, but it's not ready yet as I have fairings to have repainted and decals to sort out so it's perhaps a 2017 ROTM contest entry if people are supportive.
The coils, coil bracket, are kit. The coil wiring is altered to adapt the KLS quick shift. The fairing brackets are kit. The upper stay /tank mount is Factory works item.


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Discussion Starter #495
I took pics but can't load through Tapatalk and the old app took a shit

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Discussion Starter #496
photos of kit coils, kit coil brackets, coil wiring inturupted for KLS quickshift, and mid fairing bracket attached to same point....

can also see factory works magnesium tranny cover, kit endurance alternator, kit cable clutch conversion, 2003 Bostrom external flywheel motor, Factory works arched coolant tube to clear external flywheel, etc

I am not sure if you wanted this too, but Factory works upper fairing stay with Factory works front tank mount
 

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Discussion Starter #497
also , because I have recieved PM and emails regarding the changes I made to the kit endurance 26030-1502 wire harness connection to standard P/N model stater relay plug, here is the sequence it needs to be in order for it to work with late model relay.
I suspect that if you use 91-95 starter relay no changes are necessary. Cannot verify yet until next build.

 

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Discussion Starter #500
Some value, lol. Hell Kawasaki valued works motors in excess of $100k, Bostrom, Yanagawa, Chandler, etc. But I have no plans on selling it or pulling it out of the Raptor for any reason, I put it in there to run it.

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