Didn't like the oem's at all. Especially as they wear. They seem to get harder with usage. Maybe something to do with heat cycles cause them to lose elasticity. Hence, "stones", is very appropriate. After basic damping and sag setup, the two adjustments I found to be invaluable are rear rebound damping and front preload for cornering characteristics. If any other adjustment made, one or both of these requires fine tuning. The taller rear (not sure how much a 55 tire is more) will cant everything forward, thus steeper frame angles and will cause a tighter turning radius for the same steering angle input. Sliding the forks in their triples will also affect geometries but it is difficult to stay in the ballpark. You may or may not get it just right by doing one or both of these. But if you don't, you'll need to fiddle till you do. How much depends on how far out when you begin, riding style and personal preference. Because the 14 is fully adjustable at both ends, there is a better chance of getting things very sweet. Or can get it a little messed up. But all very very worthwhile. I like to think of a suspension as on a forward angled wedge. The steeper the wedge, the more the bike wants to fall into the turn. Braking, acceleration, bumps, load, affects the wedge angle. So... Basically if you want more turn, the rear needs to be higher and/or the front needs to be lower. But this also occurs during braking and accel. And bumps and load. Hope I haven't confused or bored or made eyes roll. But if your 14 doesn't ride and handle extremely nicely, it will.
