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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i've got a 95 zx7 and i've been going throughtthe factory service manual and other spec discussions and supposedly these bikes are suppose to put out 13.4+ volts at idle and 14.5 + under throttle . my problem is that my bike isnt really charging when in range of idle (anything 1k - 1400k) so i took of the alternator cover and checked the brushes and shaft and they looked pretty good but im still getting a power drainage and in turn rideability issues . as of right now i have to rev it up a lil in first and let out the clutch bit my bit .

sidenote- the bike is rideable but you have to rev it up when leaving first in order to avoid a dead/stall spot that'll cut it off, if you leave a stop at 1100-1300 rpms. and it has alot of its top end but not all of it.when i had my buddys new battery charger on it for a min , when i started it , it came to life instantly and with no bog in the slightly past idle spot. then as it ran it longer it started getting lower and grumblin, if i give it a rev up though itll charge the battery at 13.7-14's

is there any chance you guys could weigh in on the matter . because correct me if im wrong but this sounds more alternator then stator correct? and does anyone have any good places to check?
 

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does the bike start running off the battery or like the alternator is just weak in supplying power? you can just remove the alternator take it to autozone and have them test it pretty sure its free to test ??
 

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So i've got a 95 zx7 and i've been going throughtthe factory service manual and other spec discussions and supposedly these bikes are suppose to put out 13.4+ volts at idle and 14.5 + under throttle . my problem is that my bike isnt really charging when in range of idle (anything 1k - 1400k) so i took of the alternator cover and checked the brushes and shaft and they looked pretty good but im still getting a power drainage and in turn rideability issues . as of right now i have to rev it up a lil in first and let out the clutch bit my bit .

sidenote- the bike is rideable but you have to rev it up when leaving first in order to avoid a dead/stall spot that'll cut it off, if you leave a stop at 1100-1300 rpms. and it has alot of its top end but not all of it.when i had my buddys new battery charger on it for a min , when i started it , it came to life instantly and with no bog in the slightly past idle spot. then as it ran it longer it started getting lower and grumblin, if i give it a rev up though itll charge the battery at 13.7-14's

is there any chance you guys could weigh in on the matter . because correct me if im wrong but this sounds more alternator then stator correct? and does anyone have any good places to check?

from what ive been told, we dont have stators. all of the charging system elements are inside the alternator. im having similar problems starting my bike and in similar ways if i cant start it i put a charger on it for a 2-5 minutes and it starts right up. :headscratch i got off of a 2 hr ride last night, put her on the stand and started checking my voltages. after the ride my batt sat at 13.13v . idk what my idle and midrange rpm voltage is currently running.
im going to order the rebuild kit kawasaki part reference 21163-1193 is what is being posted. $25 for the kit and seals isnt bad at all. i might as well order one myself now.:lol i just got a new batt about 2 months ago and it seems like i could use a new one already. how new is ur batt?
 

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Was told u can check the altinator, By turning the bike on and taking the negative off the battery . If the bike stays on the altinator is good , if it shuts off .. u mite wanna new one or like ZXRACER said u can buy the rebuilt kit
 

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close epiclife. take the positive off. thus cutting the circuit to the battery and making the alternator pick up the needed amperage. headscratch... pretty sure. a trick i learned from working on cars but that still doesnt even varify if the alternators natural output is high enough to keep the "vehicle" running when disconnecting the batt. an ohm meter would be a friend in this time too though all of the ohm meters ive seen doesnt have an amperage setting or load test for 12v systems. (i dont go shopping for ohm meters much) .
does anyone know if we can rebuild it in the bike or do we have to take it out?? my book says to drain the oil and take the clutch out ...????..
 

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lol opps i did mean to say the positive lol .. was still thinking about that issue i had that had to deal with the nagative wire .. mybad "/
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
close epiclife. take the positive off. thus cutting the circuit to the battery and making the alternator pick up the needed amperage. headscratch... pretty sure. a trick i learned from working on cars but that still doesnt even varify if the alternators natural output is high enough to keep the "vehicle" running when disconnecting the batt. an ohm meter would be a friend in this time too though all of the ohm meters ive seen doesnt have an amperage setting or load test for 12v systems. (i dont go shopping for ohm meters much) .
does anyone know if we can rebuild it in the bike or do we have to take it out?? my book says to drain the oil and take the clutch out ...????..
my bikes alt is supah bad on volts , does anybody know how to test just the regulator/rectifier . it would be nice to isolate what and where the problem is. i'm gettin south of the norm on volts but i wanna see if its the brushes are bad or if its the reg/rec . i got my voltmeter handy with an ohmeter in it.

and if you could link or leave a number where you found the rebuild kit for that much im having troubles tracking down a deal like that
 

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Rebuild-Kit-Kawasaki-ZX750-Ninja-ZX-7R-P1-P8-/350530946083?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519d45c423&vxp=mtr

it says p1 but if u go inside it has all the alts on there for the 91 - 03 zx7. hope i did the link right.

from the book - " renewal of the regulator and rectifier assemblies requires the use of a soldering iron and carries a high risk of damaging the new components if not carried out correctly. for this reason it is recommended that the job is entrusted to a kawasaki dealer or auto electrical specialist."

the units are both fount inside but the way they have it listed, its easier to take the cylinder head apart than to check and replace this rectifier. nor does it give actual instruction on how. oh and it says that it can be done without having to take it all the way out.
i dont know if this is true from experience but i would take a chance with some cheap whole assembled spares for practice then when that wears out, id have one under the belt already. plus i wouldnt want to f*dge up the new one.
 

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I always set my idle around 1300.

If the voltage is fine at anything over 2000 rpm I wouldn't worry about it. You shouldn't be running at extended idle anyways.

The reason for the rough running at idle is likely an over rich condition and has nothing to do with the battery. These bikes will run an entire race on just a battery and no alternator.

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I always set my idle around 1300.

If the voltage is fine at anything over 2000 rpm I wouldn't worry about it. You shouldn't be running at extended idle anyways.

The reason for the rough running at idle is likely an over rich condition and has nothing to do with the battery. These bikes will run an entire race on just a battery and no alternator.

Josh
so its ok if my bike doesnt charge whatsover at 1100-1400?
 

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so its ok if my bike doesnt charge whatsover at 1100-1400?
But it starts charging at 1400?

What exactly is the voltage reading at 1200 for example? Or, I should say:

what is the battery voltage first thing before you start the engine?

What is the charging voltage at idle (the 1100-1400 you speak of)?

You would have fun with an older 70s/80s motorcycle, many of them didn't even consider charging until 3000 RPM, and that was normal.

Josh
 

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fyi that link is for a starter rebuild :\ sorry. but in the positive light, i met a guy that seems legit and says he can rework alternators and make them high output. im going to tear my alt off by this weekend and let him rebuild mine. ill try and remember to let u guys know. especially if anybody would like an upgraded charging system.
 
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