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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a internal fix for the lack of oil to #3 rod? I have searched, lots of problems but no fix. I want to do a big bore kit install, but Iam worried about engine failure after spending the money on the kit.
 

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The only internal oil bypass kit I'm aware of was sold by Westech (link below). But I think they do not make it anymore; it is not on their website.

( http://westech.home.mindspring.com/home.htm )

Beside this one, I only know about external kit that are (maybe "were") sold by companies like Mr Turbo or Orient Express.

This being said, they are not a cure for #3 conrod mishap. They lowers the odds but it can still happen. There are some "patches" that can help but the most important/efficient are:
- Keep oil level at the top of the sight window (even if it's above the max recommended level)
- Avoid wheelies
- Avoid long extended high speed & high RPM riding

Other (but less efficient) patches are:
- Use the latest design of oil pressure switch (I think it was introduced on 1993 D model, maybe 1994 but again, I'm not sure). It allows a slightly higher running oil pressure
- Port inner of internal "I" tube and "J" tube
- Remove balancer (not a great help though...)

Hope this helps...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The only internal oil bypass kit I'm aware of was sold by Westech (link below). But I think they do not make it anymore; it is not on their website.

( http://westech.home.mindspring.com/home.htm )

Beside this one, I only know about external kit that are (maybe "were") sold by companies like Mr Turbo or Orient Express.

This being said, they are not a cure for #3 conrod mishap. They lowers the odds but it can still happen. There are some "patches" that can help but the most important/efficient are:
- Keep oil level at the top of the sight window (even if it's above the max recommended level)
- Avoid wheelies
- Avoid long extended high speed & high RPM riding

Other (but less efficient) patches are:
- Use the latest design of oil pressure switch (I think it was introduced on 1993 D model, maybe 1994 but again, I'm not sure). It allows a slightly higher running oil pressure
- Port inner of internal "I" tube and "J" tube
- Remove balancer (not a great help though...)

Hope this helps...
Thanks for the info. I saw the oil by-pass by Mr Turbo. seems like a lot of money for a bandaid. is it worth the $300?
 

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I also think it's expensive but Westech internal kit was the same price. If you want to get the maximum possible protection and want to help your peace of mind then, yes, $300 could be worth it. Personnally, being kind of a sedate (and cheap too...
) rider, I am instead "investing" more in the top three advises (high oil level, no wheelie and no top speed run for long period). But that's just me...

Also, because you intend to take your engine apart anyway, porting the oil tubes and matching each bearing hole with oil passages will be free added insurance against failure.

Finally, if you really intend to invest in a lot of go-fast parts in your engine, maybe the $300 Mr Turbo kit makes more sense to avoid a possible failure that could junk some of those expensive parts... But it's your call.
 

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I'll add my $.02 in here as well... it's my opinion that the primary issue is a tolerance stackup problem KHI had with those motors. I have heard of fewer problems with later model bikes when compared with earlier model years. Of course the earlier model bikes have generally been ridden longer and farther than the late model bikes, so that needs to come into the equation as well.

If I were buying a ZX-11 today I'd try to get a '98 or newer, then be really careful about my oil level, not use it for wheelies, top speed runs, etc. The ZX-11 is still one of the best sport touring bikes out there, IMHO

I think the tolerance stackup theory I personally embrace is the most logical explaination as to why some bikes fail and others don't.

Edit to add that personally I would not add a bore kit or any other high performance mods to this motor. If I really wanted to make a ZX-11 faster, I'd put in a ZZR1200 motor, and modify that engine. It's got a larger cam chain galley, which allows significantly improved oil circulation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Will take advantage of porting the tubes if I go wit the big bore kit . I am toying with finding a ZZR12 motor idea. Thanks for the info Claude.
 

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Muzzy makes the oil pan kit also. I am awaiting mine this week. $300 You need to send your pan out and they redo or send you new one...
 

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How fast is fast ?

When you say top speed runs for a long time do you mean 6th gear pegged at redline or cruising near 100mph for a hour or so ?
My zx11c is running so well I wouldn't want to screw it up now.
I have had it up 140 :scared a couple of times buy only for a second or two.
Frankie Zee...

I also think it's expensive but Westech internal kit was the same price. If you want to get the maximum possible protection and want to help your peace of mind then, yes, $300 could be worth it. Personnally, being kind of a sedate (and cheap too...
) rider, I am instead "investing" more in the top three advises (high oil level, no wheelie and no top speed run for long period). But that's just me...

Also, because you intend to take your engine apart anyway, porting the oil tubes and matching each bearing hole with oil passages will be free added insurance against failure.

Finally, if you really intend to invest in a lot of go-fast parts in your engine, maybe the $300 Mr Turbo kit makes more sense to avoid a possible failure that could junk some of those expensive parts... But it's your call.
 

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Thats a fact, my D9 is in 7th heaven running at a 100 mph. The air is clean, the vibes are gone and it is very happy... the long arm of the law may have other thoughts however...
 

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Well that's good news, my baby is just humming @ 95 + I mean the engine is just resonating like a tuning fork.
This # 3 cylinder connecting rod has just got me a little freaked out.
I have replaced many items on her to try and keep her tip top but to be honest
she's 18 years old great for a human female but I don't know how the previous and much older owners (2) treated her.
I know the first guy was some old school speed freak who shipped out the whole motor to some hi end performance shop, she came back with bigger cams and god only know what else, then the last guy mid fifties had bad knees and only rode it for 3 months then he bought himself a cruiser and parked my little girl in the back of the garage for a couple of years, all in all she been parked behind some junk with a tarp hiding her.
GOOD for me, with 6100 miles on the clock I feel
like she's just broken in.

I have a V&H 4-1 and K&N filter on the way and thanks to our kind all knowing overlord (Claude) who has pointed me in the right direction as far as some jetting work.
One of the best replacements that I have done was the sprockets & chain
So smooth so quiet and of course the new Corbin seat.
I'll keep all of you posted.
BTW will I need any new parts for the pipe changes like holders or anything ?
Frankie Zee...
 

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Make sure that you replace the cooper O rings in the head. They crush to the surface of the pipe to seal it so no leaks. It almost never works to re-use them. They are a couple of bucks apeice and your dealer probably has them in stock.
Jay
 

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Also check the studs when you pull the old pipe off. If the pipe is hard to get off at the ports, the studs are probably bent from overtightening and won't make installing the new one any easier. I pulled mine off for an engine rebuild and spent two hours trying to stretch the flanges back over the bent studs to get it back on. I finally got it, but a 15 minute trip to the local bolt store for new studs would have been a much better idea. Next time....


Ps. I wish my "C" looked as good as yours!
 

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Probably the quickest way of experiencing a #3 connecting rod problem regardless of what/how you modify the engine...

Cruising @ 100 is good, the above is bad...:eek:hno
 

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3rd gone as well

What a joy to ride until the 3rd goes doing wheelies. But it was fun while it lasted. I'll tool on it for the winter. Going down to the cranks is so much fun, ... Not.:thefinger :runaway :scared :banghead
 

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Well that does it no wheelies for me.
I have gotten the front tire off the ground but
only a few inches, it was a zero to hundred thing
when 600cc needed a slap down.
Freaked me out.
Frankie Zee...:eek:hno
 

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I hope this is not to late for you. I had the same concerns for my D3 I bought about a month ago and went to speak to the mechanic at a bike shop close by which has done excellent work for me for years.

He said that it is mostly bikes with aftermarket pipes and air filters on them that has this problem, although a few stock ones had it as well.

There are some silly fixes apperently that tells you to drill holes in your casings etc to improve oil flow and still does not work.

He got a fix, which he apprently got from Ricky Gadson years ago. The real problem is apprently not a flow problem as such, but a low pressure between the different chambers in the motor. When you pull of the sump, there is a steel oil feed pipe running at the bottom of the engine (is this the I & J tubes, I do not know), the one hole must be made smaller - by putting a bush in it or something, to improve the oil pressure, I'm not sure which one it is though, I will go there again within the next week or so and maybe take a couple of pictures of the motor he is busy rebuilding.

There are other fixes that also works, but this one is cheap and easy.

He says he's been doing this mod for years for customers and all are happy.

Another mechanic friend of mine says he's works on these engines since the original GPZ900 and ZX10 and saw very few bikes with the problem.
 
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