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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well despite how much fun the FCR's have been for a week and how cool the bike is this year with all the new parts; I'm afraid she is dead.....
Spun a bearing while out on a voyage today.
Not sure which one or how or why, but its over.
No idea what I'm going to do from this point, but parting it out may be an option or selling it as a whole.
I dunno.
Bummed to tears.
 

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Find out which one it is or how many.....call Marine Crank in Cali. They are reasonable and do very good work. Dont part it out just yet. I have a crank sitting here with one bad journal, four good stock pistons with newer rings, and 3 good rods, if you are interested. All for a '98. If the parts fit, I could give you a great deal! You have had the motor apart once it should be no prob to take it down again and get it fixed!!
 

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Damn thats no good.How many miles on er?
Abuse her alot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Literally just turned 32k.
I don't abuse her, couple high speed runs, but I never rev above 11k...which isn't redlined at all.
I am not sure what has caused it.
98+ zx9r uses different engine internals, sorry.
 

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I don't know the exact feeling you're having, but something close after my accident last fall. Sorry bro. I know it hurts. She really was a labor of love.

The only opinion I can give you is to say you'll find your own path. One way or another, you are far too skilled and able not to come out of this on top.
 

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Oh no. I've got three good pistons and rods if you need them...chances are you only need 1. The crank fix from APE is about $400.

Let me know.
Marine Crankshaft and APE both do outstanding work. I'm sorry to hear about your misfortune,too.
If you decide to sell it as a whole or for parts let me know. I might be interested in the project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I'm on vacation in AZ right now so its kinda on the back burner, but I have decided to keep it and at the very least get it repaired this coming winter.
I will look into what exactly happened to cause it and go from there, but I really appreciate the advice on getting the crank worked and pistons from the members posting here, etc. You guys are great.
So she'll be in the garage for the the next few months and I will hopefully have an update later this year.
For the meantime though, I put a deposit down on a green and black 2012 zx10r at the local dealer..... ;)
http://allmotoreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/2012-Kawasaki-NinjaZX10R-green.jpg
 

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imo

To the man with unlimited funds, we wish we were you. For the rest of us with limited funds, I think there's no pride lost by cutting the old bike loose. It serves a better purpose for funding the 10R and there's the impression the 9R is more of a chore and funds drag at this point.

2fat2fly or someone with a fresh start will provide a nice home for your old pride and joy. My two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah but my g/f says the only bike she'll ride on with me is the 9r.
I really do love the bike also.
The main reason for getting the 10r is I want a bike now, since its the beginning of riding season, and I don't want to get another used bike that needs work. A nice, used bike is going for 5k or more right now and that is a very nice down payment on a 10r; so it just makes sense to get a new bike at this point in time.
 

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At least you know that a new bike hasn't been abused. But as soon as you ride the bike off the showroom floor you've lost the (approx) value of the 9.

If it were me, and it's not, I'd find a good used bike to ride for the season. Save your $$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not sure if its a sign, but I got my FCR appropriate throttle cables today.
And found out insurance on the 10r is like $3k a year.
:(
might be getting started on this sooner than I thought......
 

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I'm thinking crank repair, rod, piston, and rings. Maybe not piston and rings, depends on how much metal shavings from the bearing circulated thru the motor. Look at the cylinder walls for scoring; that should tell you whether rings and pistons need to be replaced. Looks to me like the repair is cheaper than a new bike...Take off the pan and look for magnetic shavings...

Obviously you need to split the case to remove the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah, I figured a good inspection is key. I will provide photos for all to see.
I probably went about 30 miles with it making the noises at about 80 mph.....is it going to be bad? By the time I got home the noise was louder than the exhaust.
I found a few possible engine replacements, but I'm going to be very picky about it if I go that route.
Would I be better off sending the entire engine out to somebody to have worked on? Or can I do most of the repair myself?
Will the head need work?
And what other parts may I need? Oil pump? Water pump? How effed up can it get?
 

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30 miles...

On my motor the #3 rod big end bearing was actually hammered thin and actually squished out around the rod. I had started and run the motor a number of times in the garage but rarely more than at idle. I do not know how far the previous owner had run the bike with the bearing gone.

Pieces of the bearing had circulated with the oil and had scored all of the cylinders, and a cylinder hone was not successful at removing the scoring, so all the liners were replaced. I think the liners are about $75 each. My mechanic recommended that all the rods and pistons be replaced...he wouldn't do it any other way. I still think this was overkill. Pistons maybe, rods, other than #3 no. The oil pump was also scored from the debris, so this was replaced as well.

Drain the oil, drop the motor, take the head off, and remove the block so you can inspect the pistons, rods, rod bearings and cylinder liners. We could actually feel the slop in the bearing by wiggling #3 up and down.

It may be that a big bore kit and the machine work for the cylinders may be less expensive than replacing the pistons, rods, and liners....

Did you split the case when you repaired your transmission? The case will have to be split again to remove the crank. Look at the part number of the rods, as the rod end is matched to the crank diameter. "I" rods have a slightly different diameter than "J" rods. My rods were "I" rods, which were not available at the time of my rebuild, so "J" series rods were used. When the mechanic went to assemble the motor, there was an issue with the rod journal diameter being too small for the crank journal + bearing, so the rod ends needed to be reworked at the machine shop.

You seem pretty technically inclined, so perhaps you can do most of the work and save on labor costs....let everyone know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok.
Good news or bad news, not sure, but I found the culprit.
As of right now, I believe the bearings are fine.
The problem is the engine sucked in a bolt that holds on the carb bank.........
I think that is what is making the noise.
I'm not even sure how bad it is and honestly, would this be worse?
I'm digging further....
 
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