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Discussion Starter #1
OK so quick story time I just recently bought a ZX11 was riding for a little bit then to starter solenoid went on me. Flash forward a week got the new solenoid installed it checked all voltage, fuses, grounds and resistance but now my ignition lights don’t come on at all & I can’t crank it & can’t even use the horn please help
Just bought a battery as well and had on a trickle charge over night and still nothing
 

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Go back and double check the leads to the solenoid, (they may be reversed) make sure the 4 lead connector to the solenoid is secured.
Then test for 12 volts at the solenoid with a meter.
Then get back to us.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Go back and double check the leads to the solenoid, (they may be reversed) make sure the 4 lead connector to the solenoid is secured.
Then test for 12 volts at the solenoid with a meter.
Then get back to us.
Checked the Volts for the solenoid and all checks out okay, I was getting power to the gauges a couple of days ago but now it’s just not getting power to it with a full charge battery
 

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Remove Gas tank...... then the airbox. Just underneath it is a green Molex plug. This is the lead from the key switch. Sometime this plug gets massively corroded and current will not draw effectively. This can also happen to the starter button AND the Clutch lock out on the handlebars, so due to the age of our Bikes its not a bad idea to go thru all of the plugs, and scrape the connectors clean.

That being said, it is also possible that the key switch is defective, a cold solder joint might have broke, (if u have 3000 keys attached to your Motorcycle key chain, this is a slow death way to break a key switch). With the green Molex disconnected you should be able to use a Volt meter to check current to and from the switch, u can then jump connectors, bypass the key switch, and effectively hot wire the bike for diagnostic purposes.

And lastly, the aftermarket alarm fuse..... That popped because there was a short to ground or a massive voltage surge. I would also check what that alarm is connected too, trace all the wires for shorts, and how it is grounded. I would disconnect it completely while doing diagnostics.

P.S. as a side note check around the steering stem to make sure there are no wiring bundles getting hacked apart via the triple clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Remove Gas tank...... then the airbox. Just underneath it is a green Molex plug. This is the lead from the key switch. Sometime this plug gets massively corroded and current will not draw effectively. This can also happen to the starter button AND the Clutch lock out on the handlebars, so due to the age of our Bikes its not a bad idea to go thru all of the plugs, and scrape the connectors clean.

That being said, it is also possible that the key switch is defective, a cold solder joint might have broke, (if u have 3000 keys attached to your Motorcycle key chain, this is a slow death way to break a key switch). With the green Molex disconnected you should be able to use a Volt meter to check current to and from the switch, u can then jump connectors, bypass the key switch, and effectively hot wire the bike for diagnostic purposes.

And lastly, the aftermarket alarm fuse..... That popped because there was a short to ground or a massive voltage surge. I would also check what that alarm is connected too, trace all the wires for shorts, and how it is grounded. I would disconnect it completely while doing diagnostics.

P.S. as a side note check around the steering stem to make sure there are no wiring bundles getting hacked apart via the triple clamps.
All is getting power and all is grounded unless some grounds are hidden but still nothing to the key, no pinched wires or tangled ones either
 

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So u found 12 volts coming from the battery thru the main connectors to the green Molex? I dont think .024 volts will do, or am I reading it wrong? :)
 

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So u found 12 volts coming from the battery thru the main connectors to the green Molex? I dont think .024 volts will do, or am I reading it wrong? :)
One prong is hot with 12V the rest are all grounds it read for the green and White/Clear connectors?
 

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There should be a hot 12v coming off the battery side of the green plug as well when the Main Molex is plugged back in. If not issue is between main plug and further up river. Find this hot wire on the green plug, and jump it to its corresponding lead which receives 12v and sends it the rest of the bike when the key switch is turned on. Meter lights should power up when u find it, If bike can be jumped this way, key switch is bad.

While power is jumped on the green lead, 3rd wire being spliced into this 12v power is to be temporarily tapped with the solenoid wire and starter should then turn over.... u can also send it directly to the solenoid or just arc the solenoid to crank the bike

I had to do this ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, in the middle of now here, when my 77 KZ650C died with no power. Jury rigged a hot splice, started bike up and it got me home this way
 
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