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NC ZX7's Resurrection time

544 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  NC Zx7
I think Im over calling it exhaust question. As I am beyond looking for an exhaust. I have way to many running and stopping issues as well as misc wiring issues, to fix before I even look at an exhaust. So I figured I needed a space for my resurrection portion, then later a build thread. 馃槂

Progress to date:
Mirrors. cops like to see them. (even though I cant see anything)
Throttle cable.
Plate hanger. Cops like to see them too. (was hidden behind rear tire
Bowl vent lines. Attached to air box now.
Rear turn signals. Repaired.
Clip-ons. Pretty much made them out of a steel lawn chair.
Fuel pump bracket. Yup, made that too!
Motul 300v. Without question.
Coolant flush/replenished.

Once I get things like the clutch working again and some simblance of brakes and tires. Ill get around to a frame off build post this winter.
In the meantime, Im sure I will have more questions along the way. Im really liking this bike. (even with all its issues) Think Im keeping this one! Thanks again to everyone here. Your help and wisdom have been very much appreciated.
Cheers,
Hans
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Got my Kaw part #s for the 2.3s and the 2.0s and new steels. Are the stock springs sufficant or do I need to look elsewhere for that. Other than springs, steels and plates, is there any other parts that I will wish later, that I replaced?
I ended up replacing fibers, steels and springs last time I serviced the clutch. The springs lose their tension over time. So, unless you like your job a lot and want to service the clutch twice; replace springs. Stock springs work great if the motor is stock.

Make sure you get the clutch cover gasket.

I like to soak the fibers in oil for 24hrs.
So here is todays question. I read on one of the forums that the bike has a wet clutch but the stack height is too high to take advantage of the wet clutch set-up. So the question is, what clutch kit. am I looking for to get the correct stack height for this basket as well as what brand would be good for someone on a limited budget.
Cheers,
H
I don't remember it Andy's site already explained it and I'm too lazy to go read through it again.

Kawasaki had to be different and they called it a Back-Torque Limiter clutch. The clutch came from the factory with the no slipper clutch stack height. In the service manual, it details how to change it from no slipper to medium slipper or full slipper.

I also opted for full slipper this last time I serviced the clutch.
Ive had my steels for about a week (sized for med slip) but I was waiting on my clutch disks and my master cylinder so I can get started.
I have sort of a problem right off the bat. Seems my new master cyl has a 2 wire clutch switch and the old one is 3 wire. Which of the 3 can be dropped? I wanted to just swap out the switches, but size and shape make that a no go. Any thoughts on a solution? I grew up with bikes before safety features, so I wouldnt care if its by passed all together. Im just not sure with the 3 wire setup, how it needs to be done. I assume that one is common and the other two are N.O. and N.C. To what purpose there is a 3 wire switch, I couldnt say. Anyone else run into this issue?

Thanks in advance,
Hans
In the service manual, the clutch safety switch is referred to as the Starter Lockout Switch (#4). You would need to jump the Y/G (yellow/green) and Light Green wires on the harness side to bypass the clutch safety switch. Bk/Y (black/yellow) is a ground.
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