NC ZX7's Resurrection time

Heres yesterdays project. While checking out the lighting. I noticed the right indicator was fine but when I used the left the whole tail light lit up orange. Shouldnt happen. So I quickly figured out that something was not working in the tail light. When I took the light out, I heard something rattling.

I set about taking it apart cleaning everything


After I got the board cleaned. I epoxied the ceramic resistor back in its place and resoldered it to the board.


Took a second and black RTV'd the edge of the lens and plug the other hole. and its back on the bike.


Cheers,
Hans

Skip the above post. I was having a few drinks on the anniversary of my brothers suicide. I never seen the signal indicator work properly before and somehow got neutral in my head. (Somehow... Large, now emply bottle of 151) I feel like 7 shades of hammered shit today. I had to take a quick ride to get cigarettes. I had put it on res by hung over mistake, and in a few miles it was running like, well... pretty much like I am. I must have sucked chit into the line. I am going to dump and clean the tank. Tomorrow. Im hating life at the moment and could give two chits and a F#@$ about it.
Should have seen this coming. While the bike was acting up on the side of the highway with trucking screaming by me on the 6 inch curbed shoulder. I hit the loud handle and felt the F-ing clutch let go. Of course. Everything else is bad on this bike, why not the clutch. I had planned to get stands this month so that I could change the front bald tire to a not bald one. now its clutch.
So here is todays question. I read on one of the forums that the bike has a wet clutch but the stack height is too high to take advantage of the wet clutch set-up. So the question is, what clutch kit. am I looking for to get the correct stack height for this basket as well as what brand would be good for someone on a limited budget.
Cheers,
H

NC Zx7 said:

Ive had my steels for about a week (sized for med slip) but I was waiting on my clutch disks and my master cylinder so I can get started.
I have sort of a problem right off the bat. Seems my new master cyl has a 2 wire clutch switch and the old one is 3 wire. Which of the 3 can be dropped? I wanted to just swap out the switches, but size and shape make that a no go. Any thoughts on a solution? I grew up with bikes before safety features, so I wouldnt care if its by passed all together. Im just not sure with the 3 wire setup, how it needs to be done. I assume that one is common and the other two are N.O. and N.C. To what purpose there is a 3 wire switch, I couldnt say. Anyone else run into this issue?

Thanks in advance,
Hans

Click to expand...

In the service manual, the clutch safety switch is referred to as the Starter Lockout Switch (#4). You would need to jump the Y/G (yellow/green) and Light Green wires on the harness side to bypass the clutch safety switch. Bk/Y (black/yellow) is a ground.

OK, now I am freaked out. I just took out the old disk and steels. The clutch disk that are in the bike look as thick as the new ones. steels also look good. no blueing. probably could stand a little scotchbright. otherwise nothing looks out of place with them. In fact the only thing that caught my eye is the inner basket has play in it. nothing that would show up when the stack is mounted. but with everything out. it has what I would call a "wobble" to it. I didnt have that wobble in my busa, but again that is a different bike. what has me worried is that I still dont know why my clutch is slipping as soon as the bike gets hot. my only guess is that I had the wrong oil in it-or-something. Then at stoplights I cant get into neutral and with the clutch all the way in, the bike pulls forward. What am I missing. My car took a chit and I have to get the bike back up so that I can make my doctors appointments, etc... I have never had a clutch do this before so I guess I am a little lost.

Hans