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7777
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We get this question so often it is time for a sticky.

Check these:
Grey wire having just under 6 volts
All grounds clean and tight (engine, frame behind fuel pump, subframe, water pump, harness to battery)
Jump the kickstand switch by unplugging and putting the two ends together
Make a jumper wire and plug in to the outside two plugs of the left control on the harness side (unplug from left control and jump)
Open and clean the kill switch bar control
Make sure the fuel pump relay is plugged in well
Remove all wires from the starter relay and clean them
Check/clean the power wire going to the starter
Make sure the neutral switch wire is clean and tight
Make sure the ignition pickup connector is tight
Check the connector to the alternator is not melted, corroded, etc. This happens often.
Take the handle of a screwdriver and smack the starter solenoid and junction box. The relays inside get stuck from time to time.

If none of those, check the fuel pump relay.
 

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ZX7 cutting out

Hey man, I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction here, I have been checking the forum for a similar issue to mine. I have a '92 ZX7 J which has never had a problem starting up, once she starts up she will cut out dead after a few minutes, no matter how much I try to start her she just won't budge, the engine turns over but she does not fire up. Usually after a few minutes I try her again and she fires up. Once on the go she will cut out at will and the rev counter will react by moving rapidly and involuntarily across the gauge, once warm she will occasionally back fire then back to normal again. I have never had trouble with the bike before and it is in regular use
Once warm the problem seems to be less of an issue, any ideas?
 

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Just picked up another 2000 ZX7R and I have an odd issue.
The bike will crank but will not ignite the coils with a healthy and charged battery.
Once I put a set of jump cables onto the positive and negative the whole thing fires right up. I don't understand.
 

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I actually have the same issue with warm starts. A mechanic told me that most likely the valve clearances need adjusting. The intakes are not opening far enough and whatever mixture does enter the combustion chambers is quickly vaporized by the high internal engine temp.
 

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7777
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
P models are prone to vapor lock. It could also be that. Make sure all the fuel lines are not kinked.
 

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Mine is a 1993 L model. After checking fuel lines is there a way to check if vapor lock is the issue?
 

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1993 Zx-7 L Model, 2006 ZX-10R
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3,594 Posts

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Molded fuel lines as in OEM from Kawasaki? Or the regular soft flexible variety?

I also have a leaking fuel petcock. Seems the interior rubber gasket is fine but the outside thin o-washer is bent out of shape. Is this part available or do i need to buy the whole petcock?
 

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7777
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6,899 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Molded fuel lines as in OEM from Kawasaki? Or the regular soft flexible variety?

I also have a leaking fuel petcock. Seems the interior rubber gasket is fine but the outside thin o-washer is bent out of shape. Is this part available or do i need to buy the whole petcock?
K&L makes a nice, inexpensive rebuild kit
 

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1993 Zx-7 L Model, 2006 ZX-10R
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3,594 Posts
Molded fuel lines as in OEM from Kawasaki? Or the regular soft flexible variety?

I also have a leaking fuel petcock. Seems the interior rubber gasket is fine but the outside thin o-washer is bent out of shape. Is this part available or do i need to buy the whole petcock?
Yes, OEM or equivalent molded lines.

I have put off rebuilding my fuel petcock for years. I haven't touched it since I got it to stop leaking. It's been on RES since then.
 

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I found a new o-ring and washer for the petcock and it turns over tightly now, though have not tested it under fuel feed. I have bigger problems. I broke off the ON fuel barb from the tank, luckily got it out easily with a screw extractor. It appears Kawi no longer makes this part and nothing comes up on ebay and similar sites. Anyone perhaps have one you'd like to sell? Part number 49019-1074. Same thing with the OEM molded fuel lines. Anyone have the aftermarket manufacturer.
 

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49019-1070 (RES barb) is a larger diameter thread. Is the filter removable? I tried and it won't budge. Asking so I won't damage anything else. I am thinking of shopping around town tmrw and hopefully finding a generic fuel barb with the same size thread and then having somebody smarter than me weld the long tube/filter assembly onto it. Anyone happen to know the thread size/type on the ON barb? WTF is with manufacturers cutting production of vital parts such as this? It isn't just bikes but I ran into the same issue with parts for a snowmobile and car.

A UK Kawasaki parts dealer appears to have the molded fuel lines. I should be okay as far as that goes.
 

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I found a fuel tube/filter unit for a J model ZXR750 but have no clue if the thread is the same diameter. Part number is different but perhaps only the length is shorter. Worst case I suppose I can find a plug for the ON port and just run fuel into the petcock from the RES port but I prefer to keep my stuff original.

 
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