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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok well I just picked up a real gem of a bike.

It has not been very well taken care of to this point in its life I would imagine.

Plastic is in pretty crappy shape and not on the bike.

Paid 600 for this project and we will see how it goes from this point.
Here are the first pictures I have had a chance to take since I got it home tonight





Someone had put lowering links on the bike and it couldn't even be put on the side stand. So the only thing I did tonight was put it back to stock height.

Previous owner said he got the bike from a friend but said the bike was not making the right amount of power so he took it to a shop and according to the guy the shop said the head bolts were not torqued correctly and it had the factory head gasket on it. So the shop replaced the head gasket and the radiator i guess. I have the receipts for the stuff now.

Well they claim they got the bike back and it ran for one day and "ran like a sewing machine" but the next day it would not start.

that is where it sits as of now. I took the tank off and found out the fuel pump was only hooked up on the input side and nothing hooked up to the output on the pump. There is also a black electronic connector that has two wires coming out and one of them has been cut.

I hooked up a good battery and when I turned on the key the pump comes on and is trying to pump. But the motor does not turn over with the key on. I am not sure where to start but I am going to try to figure out that fuel line issue and see where everything should be hooked up from the fuel pump.
 

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could be lots of crap going on.

could be a defective stop/run switch. Could be the starter motor. Could be the starter motor relay.

Where is this black connector (with the one cut wire) located? What are the wire colors?

My advice is to get a factory service manual from the internet.

There is lots of talent on the forum so we should be able to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The first day of work

Ok I got to work on it a little today and try to figure out where it stands mechanically.

First I found out that my sensors (stand, neutral, and clutch) must all be good. The bike finally turned over several times with the starter button. Then it began making clicking noises and I was not sure if it was low voltage, a bad starter button or a bad starter relay. Got the relay checked and it was good, so I think it was a dead battery. I also think the button could stand to be cleaned up as well but that is for another day.

I then checked to see if I had spark, I just checked the number three cylinder and it had spark. I assumed the others would be fine as well. I may have to check the other three another day. So I put some gas in the tank and turned the key. Gas pumped up and I had gas coming from two places. The petcock was leaking and there was some coming from the number 4 carb. I ordered the o-rings for the petcock.

As for the carb I am not sure what to make of it. There are two brass pieces at the bottom of the face of each carb. On the number 4 and number 3 carb there was gas coming out of one of the brass pieces. I shut it off when gas was getting on the ground. I am not sure if it would have eventually come out of carbs 1 and 2. Also while I was doing this I had the air box completely off of the bike. I discovered I was also missing the giant o-ring between the intake and carb 4. I ordered it as well.

Here is a shot of all 4


The one missing the oring and it had the gas coming out of the brass at the bottom.


Here is the plug that is under the seat that I can not figure out what it is


The rest of the wire mess under the seat. You can see the black plug from the previous picture here too.


Thanks for the help guys. This is definitely the place to come to learn some stuff.
 

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get rid of all those wire nuts. they dont belong on a bike.

It looks like the wire colors for the plug are blue and black/yellow. I looked at the electrical drawing for my bike (a 95 zx9r) but couldn't find a pair of wires or a connector with these color wires. Maybe someone else, that has a 97, can help here.

Black/yellow is a ground wire, connects to all the other B/Y wires in the wire harness.

You are gonna have to take the carbs off and give them a good cleaning.
 

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Ok, sorry about misreading your post, you have a 95. If the connector wiring colors are blue/white and black/yellow it is probably the radiator fan motor wires. If the wire colors are white/blue and black/yellow it's the the accessory terminal.
 

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Looks like a serious project! At least it has the discontinued rear seat bracket, mine was missing so the front of the rear seat always jumps around when I'm riding. Of course that shouldn't be a problem initially for you since it appears you don't have the rear seat. Are you gonna get plastic or streetfighter it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I actually do have the rear seat it was just off of the bike. I am hoping to just get it running first and I am fairly confident I can do that. I would like to streetfighter it. I have most of the plastics but they are not in the best condition. They are mostly repairable but I will try and sell them if it is possible. Not sure how much interest there will be in those but I will probably look into selling them after I get it running.
 

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wow quite the project.
I would get an entirely new wiring harness to start.
Open the float bowls on the carbs and you'll probably find some horrible things.
This bike honestly needs 100% work done to it, there seems to be little savlagable parts.
I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't bottom end issues or valve issues.
Usually something this well taken care of will have deep rooted, expensive issues.
Good luck with it though.
 

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wow quite the project.
I would get an entirely new wiring harness to start.
Open the float bowls on the carbs and you'll probably find some horrible things.
This bike honestly needs 100% work done to it, there seems to be little savlagable parts.
I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't bottom end issues or valve issues.
Usually something this well taken care of will have deep rooted, expensive issues.
Good luck with it though.
Jeezus Jowek, aren't you the downer these days....:smile
 

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my bike didn't look a whole lot better when I picked it up. I paid about three times as much though. Mine came all assembled and running though. It had a red rattle-can paint job. Plastic was all there but had been repaired multiple times. I cleaned the plastic up myself and painted it properly for about $50. The wiring didn't look as cobbed up as yours, but that doesn't mean yours is shot, just needs a little attention. My engine seems to be pretty good, guy said it was rebuilt but I wouldn't take his word on it. Clean yours up and get it running and if it runs good paint it, you'll have a sweet ride for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well some good news today. I finally got back from the family weekend and got to look some more at the bike.

My orings that I ordered came in today and I got those put in the petcock and the one that I was missing from the number 4 carb.

I got a battery charged up enough to try starting it on starting fluid to make sure it would fire. It took a little bit but eventually it fired up multiple times and ran for a second. I am taking this as some good news. It sounded ok to me for the little amount of time I had it running.

Did run into a new issue. Evidently this bike has had some "special" repairs made to the side of a carb. It is where the throttle cables mount to the side of the number one carb. JB Weld fixing.

Pics


My question on this one is about where the red arrow is pointing. Does something hook into that slot or what



Thanks for looking at my stuff guys. I really appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so I went out and tried to start it on gas and it hit a few times. I am guessing that the carbs need to be cleaned. If I take the carbs off the bike will I have to pay to have them synced or what. I am still trying to stay as cheap as possible until it is running. I dont know what makes them get out of sync so.
 

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There is a spring that closes the choke on the carb. That little hook (where your red arrow is pointing is where the spring-end connects to the carb. The other end to the choke mechanism, which is more of a "slide" on carb #4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There is a spring that closes the choke on the carb. That little hook (where your red arrow is pointing is where the spring-end connects to the carb. The other end to the choke mechanism, which is more of a "slide" on carb #4.
Thanks for the info. I need to find this spring so I will look at some schematics online and try to find it.

Does anyone know about interchangeable carbs from another year or motorcycle. I am thinking about replacing all of the carbs to do away with the JB weld repairs. It appears to just be holding on the threaded area where the throttle cables attach to the side of carb #1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well..... Its Alive!!!!

Finished cleaning the carbs out today and hooked it back up. A few seconds of turning over and it fired right up.

It is running rough at the moment though. Probably going to have to do some tuning. Maybe air screw adjustments. Maybe syncing the carbs.
I would like to try syncing the carbs myself if possible. Just not sure where to start as far as getting a set of gauges.

Didnt want to run it very much today. Tomorrow I am going to change the oil so that will be a non issue and then I will double check my coolants and what not before I run it anymore. I also have to get a battery as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok well I have changed the oil again today and started it back up. The oil light is on after about 2 minutes of running. Not sure when it came on. I wasnt watching that when it came on. Any clue what this might mean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Figured out the oil light. My wire was pinched in a bolt and was grounding out. Some smart guy really took care when putting that part back together.

On a much more awesome note..... I just started it up and rode it up and down the road!!! I was very proud of my self and even threw in a fist pump or two. Sad thing was I was by myself ha. It looks like the previous owner was not just outright lying. It seems to run pretty good. I am not sure if it needed to be rejetted after it got the muzzy exhaust. I am pretty sure that is not the stock exhaust anyways. It runs pretty smooth down low and kind of spits a little when you get it around 7000. It could also need to be tuned some so that may be another solution. Or both. Who knows right now. i am just happy that it is running.

Clutch seems interesting when shifting to first gear. It really clunks into gear. I have the idle set around 1200 or so I believe.

All of that can be sorted out in time. I am just glad that at the moment it does not appear to have been a waste of money.

Next step is going to be de-greasing and washing all of the dirt off of it. I am glad that is what is next. I like cleaning so we will see how that goes.

I should mention that I am looking to make this bad boy naked/streetfighter/cafe racer.
It seems fun and I think those plastics just don't suit me very well as I find them too dated.

I guess I should start looking into headlight solutions as well. I really like large round single headlights. I have seen some people build them on their fighters and I love how they look. Kind of a hybrid cafe/fighter look.

I am also trying to figure out what to do about the gauges. I like the way the stock ones look but I think a smaller digital display would be awesome.

Any suggestions in this department would be appreciated.
Thanks for all your help
 

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when the plastic is painted it looks great. Thought about streetfightering mine, but I cleaned up the plastic and sprayed it kawi green... it really looks good, in fact I like the bodywork better than the new bikes. Biggest thing about doing a streetfighter would be finding a headlight that would work and look right. They do look good naked, especially the ram air holes in the frame. Congratulations! It really sounds like it's coming together for ya.
 

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Hi, Bambooman:

First, I disagree with the post that says few if any parts on the bike are repairable. But you certainly have an uphill battle that may cost you more than you planned. First you need to set a budget. Post it here, if you don't mind. I have worked on bikes for a while, have restored two sports cars, and I know when to walk away from a project.

I HIGHLY recommend you not only purchase a Haynes manual, but also the OEM manual. I use only the factory manual. However, I use Haynes manuals on most of my four wheel vehicles and they do have procedures for removal and installation of hard to work on things that you may not find in the OEM manual. With pictures in some cases. They also have fabrications for tools in some cases where you otherwise may have to rent or buy an expensive specialty tool.

Second, I would prioritize your project. Here is my suggestion based on the information you have provided:

1. Electrical. This is the first place to start.

a. I disagree with the suggestion that you need an entirely new wiring harness. If you are good with soldering terminals and installing wiring, you can make a lot of repairs yourself. I do agree that at some point, you have to decide whether getting a used wiring harness would be better. However, if you have not rewired a car or motorcycle, that is not the place to start pouring hours into the project.
b. Get out the wiring diagrams for the bike from the service manual. Spend an evening getting acquainted with it. Then set aside 2 hours of time to go out to the garage, with the diagram, and look over the wiring under the seat and fuel tank. Black wires with yellow stripes on that bike are usually a ground wire for a basic two wire circuit. You need to follow some of the wires to rule out certain two wire circuits and then you can narrow down where that unplugged plug+clipped wire go. Find the mate plug. There has to be one close. If not, then there are some wires that don't go anywhere. Start to worry until you find what they do. Under the seat and fuel tank the wiring for everything originates. On the right side, which appears to be where you have this issue, the ignition and fuel circuits are there, and there is a two wire circuit for the ignition cut out that goes to a switch down at the side stand. One wire is yellow, as I recall, the other is black/yellow (ground). I am not saying it is that, since the wire that appears to be cut is not yellow, but you need to check all the circuits in the wiring diagram that go to anything going out from the battery.
c. Wirenuts? Wow, that is really professional if you are wiring a home, but not on a car or motorcycle. And why are those wires terminated? Stock bikes have all the wires going somewhere. That is a big telltale sign something or things are wrong. Maybe they have some wires not used if they put in an aftermarket ignition system, but everything should be there and nothing should be cut off.

2. Carbs. Wow, that repair is nasty. What likely happened is someone tried to remove the screw that attaches the bracket holding the throttle cables in place that goes into the side of that carburetor, without first heating the screw and the carburetor with a heat gun. That screw is mounted with a strong thread locking compound and when I tried to remove it I ended up drilling a hole in the screw and using a screw extractor and a heat gun to get it out.
a. The thing you have the arrow pointing to is part of what holds in place the bracket that extends across the top rear of all four carburetors that works the acellerator pumps on the sides of each carburetors. It also has a return spring. See if maybe you can order it from a place like Bike Bandit. I have ordered a lot of small parts for my ZX9R from them. I just ordered and received some small parts for my carbs, as I have them off the bike for cleaning.
b. I don't see the vacuum hoses that seal the vacuum ports located at the bases of the head intake ports (in the casting, not part of the rubber intakes). Maybe your photo just did not show them, but the 1 and 4 ports are connected by one hose that has a tee in the center, and the other part of the tee goes to the vacuum switch for the emissions device found on top of the engine (two hoses go into the tops of the cam covers). The 2 and 3 ports are connected with one hose, no tee.
c. You can take off the carbs as one unit and put them on a clean surface with no dust floating around, and start cleaning them. First clean the entire outsides and linkages with Gummout carb cleaner. Use a respirator and nitrile gloves (the thick kind), and splash proof safety goggles, because the stuff flies everywhere. Make sure no painted surfaces are around you when you do it because Gummout carb cleaner almost instantly removes paint.
d. Next, take out the o-rings in the top openings of the carbs, inspect them and clean them preferably with BrakeClean or other brake cleaner. Gummout may damage them. Wipe dry with a paper towel and put them in a Ziplock and label them.
e. Next, go buy a Flambeau or Plano organizer box, the plastic boxes with the dividers. You can buy them at fastener suppliers, hardware stores, or sporting goods stores in the fishing section. As you remove parts, put them in a compartment and label with Scotch tape on the lid as to where it goes. That way everything goes back in the right place. Start disassembly with the fuel bowls. The screws come out with a Phillips screwdriver with hand force only. There is an o-ring in the bowl mating surface. Do not remove it unless you really need to do that to clean it. There may be a reddish brown material on it or the mating surface. If you can buy Toluene at your paint or hardware store, that works great to clean this. If you don't have that, Brakeclean or Gummout carb cleaner will do it or methanol. You will need to clean out the bowls and remove the bleed screw from the bottom of it and clean that orifice too. There are two Phillips screws that hold the float needle in place and you can carefully remove those and take out the small rod and the rest of the needle assembly (including the seat, which the needle goes into and has a screen in the bottom).
f. After you do this there is more cleaning to do but this is a good start.
g. Those fuel bowls can be rebuilt with kits. They include the float needle, the seat and the o-ring for the fuel bowl. Be careful however, if you buy one on eBay. I would look for some other source that has a customer service department in case they send the wrong part. Those carburetors generally have parts you can find in terms of o-rings, jets, slides, etc.
h. That carb with the repair, on the #4 cylinder, it will probably have to be replaced. You may only be able to find the full bank of carburetors, so maybe before you go taking yours apart, take a look on eBay or at your local motorcycle wrecker for carbs from a '94-'97 ZX9R.

One last thing: Do not separate the carbs unless you really need to, because once they are separated you will really need a service manual to put them together and you will need to buy a four carb synchronizer to get the carbs synched. And those vacuum fittings I discussed above that are on the intake casting will be used for that purpose.
 
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