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If it covers the drain plug, you can remove the oil switch on the left side of the pan to drain oil while on the side stand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
If it covers the drain plug, you can remove the oil switch on the left side of the pan to drain oil while on the side stand.
Thanks! I didn't know that. Good to know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
Aloha guys.

Well, last weekend, I couldn't work on my bike. No. Weather was nice and it was beautiful day as it was not too hot and not too cold. HOWEVER! Friend needed my help fixing his truck so oh well. At least he pay me so guess you can say I got some pocket money for the bike.

Anyway, since I couldn't work on the bike, decided to look for some parts that I need and hit a snag. Spark plug boot(s). Actually, I need both the wire and the boots, but I figure I can get some wire from automobile store for some copper core wire, if not low resistance race wire or something similar. But can't find the boots. Now, I know my bike, from service manual, uses non-resister type plug. Found some boots offshore(UK) but I believe they use resister type plug. What you guys use?

I did some search, both on this site and the web, but the post I found were all old ones and guess you could still buy those from the part store like Partzilla. Can someone shine me some light regarding this? I think all I need to fire up the bike is just that. My ignition system.

Help...............
 

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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
Aloha guys.

Pictures to be follow. But I wanted to ask this question first so I can start looking for it.

Today, I wanted to finish the shock conversion and was working on it. I did finish it but it seems as the bottom is binding with the linkage. I did grind the bottom mount but I don't want to grind it too much, and it does look somewhat thin at certain point. Only option I have now is to grind linkage side but I don't want to grind the stock linkage. Is there any other linkage I can use? I did some search on this site as well as on the web and looks like linkage from any other 7 will fit, but I just want to make sure.

Anybody have any tip on this? Until I get this sort it out, other work will be on hold as I don't want to take the whole thing off again................
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Aloha guys.

Well, since I was working on the bike yesterday and hit a snag, decided to work on the smaller stuff today until I can find a solution for my problem. Been looking on evilbay for the linkage, but I can't find one for the H model. So I guess I'll gonna be looking for a while unless I decide to use later model arm.

Anyway, for today, decided to blast some of the small parts so I can clean them and paint. Now, blasting took some time but not because the parts were dirty or rusted heavily, but I think I need to, for lack of a better word, clean the blasting media. What I mean is that some of the paint flakes made it into the blasting media and blocking the suction orifice/line. I had to stop several time and shift the blasting media, good for about 15 minutes or so and it get clogged again.

Anyway, I just blasted some parts so really nothing to see, but I know you guys love pictures, so here we go.

parts before getting blasted.





After.



Oil filter mount. Before and after.




Oil line banjo bolts. By blasting, I took off whatever finish that was on the bolts......................Damn.


Now, something different. This is what I did yesterday and couple of things went wrong. First, as I mentioned on post above, looks like bottom of the shock need little more space between the arm and the shock bracket. Doesn't bind, yet. But who knows. Would like to get little more space between the shock and the arm.I did grind some on the shock side, but I haven't grind the arm, yet. As much as possible, I want to stay away from grinding the stock arm. Here are some pictures.

Is this enough light in between?


Front side of the business. Looking kinda close.................


Second, because of how the line for remote reservoir was clocked (@9'o clock), I needed to move the line oh ever slightly. But by doing so, I manage to move the line little too much and some gas and little oil came out of the shock. Now, I have to send it out for rebuilt. But before that. I need to work out the bug I have with this shock, so I don't want to send it out just yet. But just in case I have to, do you guys have any shop that you recommend for shock rebuild? Pictures of what I mean.

Damn! Moved just little too much!


Different angle..............


I really don't want to spend $1000 for a shock. I still have to buy tires, both pads, chains, sprockets, yada yada yada..............
 

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sci85

Nice looking bike. I've done the YZF shock conversion on my H1 and didn't grind anything. I believe you are looking at the space at full unloaded extension so that's the worst it will ever be. Once all bolted up, that spacing is fine. I've had zero issues. Oh, and yeah that dang remote reservoir hose bit me in the azz too haha. Little things you don't think of...
 

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Oh, and I'd move that hose further away from the mount. Mine was close like that and the hose head ended up just touching the shock mount during riding causing the banjo bolt to loosen up.
 

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Whooooooaaaa, whooooaa man! Stop the violence! Yep, it's tight at the linkage with the swingarm unweighted and free hanging full down, but as Sci85 said, it's fine while riding so you should be "in the clear" as it were mate. I'm running a P linkage on my H2 with adjustable riser dogbones to get the ass up 25mm so all's swell once its done and on the road.

On the plus side here,

1- the linkages on these was one of the engineering crimes of the past century (plus the J/K that came immediately afterward) so its a good time to make an upgrade there to at least L/M if not P linkage. My clicking, previously badly dislocated - and self reset- right wrist was a victim of my original H1 back in the day launching me skyward, so that was one of the first things I wanted to change with my current H2 hehe.

2- since the adjustment on the shock reservoir went a bit sideways and leaked a bit, you have a perfect excuse for the missus to get the rebuild done. That and rotate the banjo bolt a bit more to your liking, because, as stated above!

Since you're already totally aware these are NOS (my bushings weren't as crusty as yours tho), it could easily stand new oil and Nitrogen just from standing in the box unused so long. I really have liked the results from RaceTech and they're here in SoCal so probably the closest option unless anyone out there knows a good shop in the islands that can take care of the work properly.

http://www.racetech.com/

You might want to go for a fork job while you are at it to have both ends behaving their best. I think mte78 called them up directly for his bike and they cut him some slack, decent folks as they are. Ring them up and plead your case but their pricing is fair for what you get.

So sorry for all the hassle but when you get her done, this is actually going to transform the bike far better than it was back in the day out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Thanks for the info guys.

I'm not sure why mine needed some grinding, but the bottom bracket definitely did not fit without some grinding to it. light tap with rubber mallet is all I did, but no. With some light grinding, it finally fit into the arm/linkage.

Now, I tried to fit the arm/linkage without grinding the top portion of the bottom bracket on the shock, but no matter how I did it, linkage wouldn't even fit. What I mean is that if I fit the arm to frame side, shock bottom didn't go in, and if I fit the arm to the bottom bracket, it didn't fit onto the frame side bracket. I do have both side of the bike on stand, but even with motorcycle lifting jack going up and down , linkage just wouldn't fit. So I grinded top part of the shock bottom bracket and that finally did it. I mean grinding done to it is just matter of 1/16 or at most, 1/8 inch but that did it. But as you can see on the picture, little worried about shock binding due to lack of space between bracket and linkage.

Now for rebuilding the shock, I was looking at Racetech also. And no, we don't have any shop that will do shock rebuild and if we did, I wouldn't trust them anyway. Guess I need to send them away and have them rebuild it. I just hope that they will clock the hose the right way (I will send them instruction and just in case, I will mark the hose end before I send them away).

Fork need to wait until another day. Time and budget is the deciding factor as I'm currently rebuilding 82' KZ/GPz 750 as well. I need to hurry up to some point before my son lose interest with motorcycle.
 

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Hey I couldn't sleep again, so one more thought. You've had this puppy fully torn apart for the frame and arm respray, yes? So there's one other item that may be screwing you up that didn't catch the rest of us out.

H1 and H2 have eccentric ride height adjusters there under the swingarm. Check out the dogbones from where they go from your linkage to the swingarm.

If you take off the dogbones and remove the bolt there (should still hopefully) be a gold colored cam with a slotted face. Undoing the allen bolts that hold the eccentric wheel and turning that puppy will adjust the rear ride height and should therefore also alter the geometry you're looking at. Depending on how you put her back together that may be what is causing you heartache.

The other linkages will raise the ass a good bit too, plus the adjustable dogbones that are available: http://www.lustracing.co.uk/suspension/kawasaki-jack-up-kits.html

For now though try to mess a bit with the eccentric and see if putting it in another position doesn't buy you a bit more clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
Thanks John. I hope you didn't lose any sleep because of this!:grin2:

Anyway, bike need to put on hold as I'm getting ready to go for some family vacation. And as soon as I get back, I'll go back to work so earliest I can work on the bike will be at end of April. But as soon as I get a chance, I'll look at the eccentric adjuster under the swingarm.

Yeah, I didn't even touch that part of the suspension as I was trying to fit the shock and when I got everything to hook up, it was time for me to call it for the day.I'll let you guys know how it went after I come back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Aloha guys.

My shock upgrade so far has been nothing but trouble, but that hasn't discourage me, yet. And, since I'll be going on vacation soon, I decided NOT to work on my bike, to keep my wife happy with last minute shopping and such. Yeah, I'm married.

Anyway, because I needed to grind some part of that YZF shock and it look as I need to grind little off from the arm as well, I went ahead and got me both H and P model linkage. They were $15 piece, so i couldn't pass up on the deal and just in case something has gone wrong, I least I have a spare. Besides, both of them had free shipping. Yipeeeeeeeee!

Anyway, I was curious to just how much difference these linkage has, if any, so decided to match them up tonight (yeah, I have itchy finger that I can't shake it off). Took some pictures so I'll share it with you guys. I'm not sure what difference this will make, but I wanted to post this in case someone looking for the info. Width of the mounting point are all same, as you can see it in the pictures below.

Damn, I can't wait to come back from the trip......................

Arms mounting point. Shock side.


Frame side.


Where the dog-bone will fit.


The difference. I put the bolt in to show the difference in mounting point.




As I said, I haven't work on the bike so I can't say for sure, but the P linkage has little more curve to shock side of the mount, so hopefully, this will cure the problem I have. +

Now, I need to wrap the shock and send them to rebuild. BTW, I'm sending it to Racetech and their rebuild cost is around $235............Plus shipping.
I need to find me a second job soon if this keeps up. Now, where did that Autozone ad go?......................Or was it Walmart?
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
Aloha guys.

haven't work on the bike for about a week, my fingers are getting itchy. Doing some evilbay surfing, and noticed something. I need both front and rear sprockets.

Now, if I can, I want something lightweight (No. Not the unsprung weight. I just want this PORKY bike to shed some weight. Yes. Every grams count). Found couple on the net, but the pictures all said "Image are not accurate. Actual item may be different from the picture" or something similar.

Can anybody tell me which one/manufacture is/are actually drilled for lighter weight?
 

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RENTHAL SPROCKECTS alloy/ hard anodised,520 DID ZVM-X if you need to get a new chain aswell.There's a few kit parts on uk ebay for I think the H1,the part numbers don't match up with the later zxr750's k,l,m kit manual pt numbers so I'n guessing there for the H1
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
Thanks K950. I think I did look at their website but said the same thing. That's why I think I stayed away from purchasing.

Anyway, I'll take a look again. Maybe something else kept me from buying them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
Aloha guys,

Just wanted to let you guys know that I have't gave up on my project. Right now, I started a new part time job to keep me healthy so trying to get used to the new schedule and as of right now, I don't have a day off. I have to work on weekend, just the afternoon for 4 hours, but since I have to work afternoon, pretty much the day is wasted.

Anyway, hopefully, this schedule will change soon and I can get back to working on the bike.

I will update later on to upload some pictures so you guys know that I'm still collecting parts and the project is not abandon yet (well, I don't plan to anyway). So far, I got myself new chain (RK), spark plugs, bought used front disk (OEM) from evilbay, but I haven't had time to check the straightness and thickness. according to seller, it's straight and it's above the min. thickness but I just to make sure. These disks will receive Titanium bolts which I already bought and have. Also got new brake pads (EBC) for both front and rear. Also, the YZF shock was sent out to Race Tech for rebuild. I will definitely post the pictures when I get them back.

Aside from these parts, I still have to hook up the carb and see if she runs. Not worried about the motor. I'm more worry about the carb. It's been cleaned, but you won't know if she gonna run until you hook it up and put some gas in it. Also need to install new clutch friction disk. Man, list are getting longer......................
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
Ojisan rider, So what's the verdict? Did you ever swap the linkages? Get the motor running? How's the shock?
Sorry for lack of updates. Between two of my car that needs some kind of attention and two motorcycles, plus no day-off ( i work part time again to keep me in shape. What I mean is instead of pay to go to the gym, I work physically involve part-time and get paid), my project is on halt right now.

But, what I can tell you are, I did install the linkage but clearance issue is the same. I did get my shock back but haven't install on the bike yet. Motor still not running as I need to connect all oil hoses, change the friction plates, connect the fuel pump so that I can run the carb.

I also collected some parts too, such as new chain (Gold RK), Renthal front superlight sprocket, new fuel filter and spark plug wires. I will take some pictures whenever I can and post it up here, but don't hold your breath.

Damn I'm tired..................
 
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