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Discussion Starter #21
I have a stock seat

$100 obo

I have stock bar ends - free
Think I have a stock windshield as well

Chain is shot, get rid of it...... Its a broken link looking for a place to happen.
Funds are a bit low right now. I'm gonna have to hold off on the seat for a bit. I'll have to take a look at the windshield and see if it needs replacing. Bar ends are all scratched up so I do need a set of those.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Metal rescue for the rust . Bill Hirsch for sealer, Don't use Kreem or POR 15 .
Or Evapo-Rust: https://amzn.to/2IJHmK2

That stuff is amazing! It gets rid of all the rust and doesn't harm the good metal at all.
I ended up going with the Evapo-Rust after doing some due diligence. Independent reviews show it's just as effective as Metal Rescue with a lower price tag. I haven't had the time to do anything with the fuel tank lately. Once I start working on it I'll post my progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Life happened and this project went to the back burner. I'm finally settled in a new place with a garage and have started working on the bike.

I put in a new battery and the basic electrical seems to be fine.

Needed to change the oil and a second set of hands broke off a part I'm unable to identify. It's the piece that the oil pressure sensor/switch is attached to.


I did manage to remove the remainder of the threads from the oil pan.


Now I just need that part to install. I checked the fiche but I didn't see a match. Perhaps I missed it.

Right now I'm just trying to get it running. I'm running some fuel from an external tank to the fuel line I detached from the bike's tank. I'll be working on de-rusting the bike tank shortly and putting tank coat in.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My mystery part has now been identified!

It's a tee fitting used in plumbing.

It's not an OEM setup and I'm not quite sure why the modification was made. I've come to find out that the original owner (2 owners ago) used to race the bike. I'm gathering he wanted increased oil flow to keep the bike running cooler. Ordered a fitting from Amazon since Home Depot and Lowe's didn't have it and none of the employees had any idea what it is so they couldn't tell me if they had them in stock. I browsed the aisles for awhile and couldn't find one.

The additional oil line that was added runs from where the oil pressure sensor threads in to a threaded hole in the lower front right corner of the engine. I stared at the fiche for a bit but drew a blank.
 

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Funds are a bit low right now. I'm gonna have to hold off on the seat for a bit. I'll have to take a look at the windshield and see if it needs replacing. Bar ends are all scratched up so I do need a set of those.
Sorry Im late, if u still need the bar ends, PM me you address
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I separated the oil pressure sensor from the tee. The sensor doesn't fit into the oil pan. The male on the tee measures .52 inches and the male on the sensor measures .40

Sensor measurement Tee measurement
I don't know what the sensor is supposed to measure so I'm not sure I'd they reduced the width of the threads or they opened up the hole in the oil pan more. Either way, going to order a new tee and put it back the way I found it.

Here's what the tee looks like close up

Tee and sensor
Here's where the added oil line went from the sensor hole.

Added Line from Sensor Hole to Unknown Hole
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So, I think I've figured this fitting situation out. After searching around and not being able to find an elbow fitting with a smaller hole size on the bottom I was a bit puzzled. I started looking at street tees. That didn't pan out either. Then someone mentioned that it looks like a custom made piece. I tried putting the oil pressure switch into the pan and it was too small. Ok, pretty sure that guy is right, it's custom made. Found an identical elbow with no hole on the bottom, one 1/2" male and one 1/2" female. Hole on the bottom must have been drilled and tapped to fit the switch. The thread thickness on the sensor has been reduced to fit the smaller hole created in the elbow. Now to order the elbow along with a tap and die set to create a new threaded hole for the switch. Good excuse for me to add a tap and die set to my toolbox.
 

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Nice project. Keep us posted. Get the carbs and engine running and everything else should call into place. I took the carbs off mine when I bought it not running. Gave it to a friend along with 200$, a bag of pistachios and a big bottle of jim beam. He cleaned and replaced some stuff. Been running good every since. I
I have a 92c. I got a box of swingarm bearings and other stuff. All ordered new. Not sure if they will fit a d but they are yours if you get that far.
 

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Can you give me some insight on why that mod would be done?
Beers ago it was determined, that MAYBE thru a casting error at the factory, the #3 main bearing lube hole was a tad small or slightly plugged due to poor casting. Itwas also found that at higher RPMs there was maybe 1/2 quart of oil in the oil pan @ any given time, so when some twits decided to wheelie, the #3 got oil starved and blew its cookies.

Adding more oil to top off the site glass to just 1 red pubic hair shy from the top, put another 1/2 quart into the oil pan hence helping in eliminating the dreaded #3 rod failure. Another Dude, playing a Dude, disguised as another Dude, put a pressure guage on the engine and determined that the xtra oil also RAISED oil pressure to adequate levels even @ high RPMS.
 

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Since 3 years approx. I'm putting 4 lts in every change (instead of 3.5 lts). I decided this for two things: 1) contemporary ZX6 carries 3.7 lts, how in the hell an engine much smaller carries more oil than a ZX11 !!, and 2) I put 4 lts and after one week without turning on the engine, the oil level descends approx. to a 60% of the glass window, and so I try to keep it at that.
After so many years figuring out what would be the best way to check the oil level (the only item that I hate of the ZX11), this is my last way to do it.
 
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