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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been emailing a member of this board, and he mentioned that he was advised to not run a chain with a master link with a slide-type clip, only riveted because of the amount of power the ZX-11 puts out. I just bought a new O-ring chain that is rated up to 9,200 pounds and has a master link and has a slide clip.

Any ideas?
 

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Kawasaki recommend either an endless chain or using a soft link (which allows the side plate to be secured positively) as they are more secure.

It's not the strength but rather the security that is the problem with the type secured with a sprung clip.
 

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Don't use clip type master links with these bikes, it's not worth the risk! Most of the chains I saw that chain manufacturers recommended for these bikes didn't even have clip type links available in the first place. I just went through it with mine, had to go on ebay and get a cutter/riveter kit. It only ran me about $50 and it worked like a charm. I'd never done one before and it was no problem. Just read the directions and take your time. Play it safe, having a chain come apart at anything over 25 mph (or less!) is one of the worst things you can have happen! You might have a 1 or 2% chance that the chain will just spit out on the ground. What will probably happen is it'll lock up your rear wheel or take out the engine case.
 

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I've been using clip link for years now and never got any problem. However, I always spread a bit of "Goop" over the clip as a security move.

But I'm not an agressive rider and it is only my humble opinion.
 

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Last year I was preparing to go for a ride and decided to do a pre-ride inspection. I know they say you should inspect before every ride, but do we really always do that? I've gone on many rides when I just fired up and drove away. Anyway, this day I decided to do a fairly thorough inspection. When I looked at the chain there was no clip on my masterlink. It was kinda scary. Made me wonder how long that clip had been missing. Now I try to remember to atleast do a quick inspection before every ride.
T
 

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Yea iam in market for new chain allso there is a RK x-ring oso chain 110 links it says its up to 1000cc.. would this chain be the one to get or is it like what you all are talking about? Never have bought a chain for a bike yet been lucky I guess...this one I have on my bike now has 10k miles on it and I have rode in more rain than i cared to lol
 

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I'm not sure what chain for a ZX11 but I'm sure it's out there. You will want to change out those sprockets at the same time to avoid any problems.
 

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I'm not sure what chain for a ZX11 but I'm sure it's out there. You will want to change out those sprockets at the same time to avoid any problems.
Agreed. Chains and sprockets wear to each other and should always be purchased in sets. No old chain on new sprockets. No new chain on old sprockets. Also, I always buy an aluminum rear sprocket. Some people insist on steel but I think the aluminum is superior.
T
 

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Also, I always buy an aluminum rear sprocket. Some people insist on steel but I think the aluminum is superior.
T
First, i'm not flaming on you. its your opinion. And i respect it. My experience with aluminum is:

Aluminum rear sprockets sure are pretty. UNTIL you rip the the teeth off of one. I was running hard up Fort Mountian(a lot harder than I should have been) Anyway I came out of a really tight 180 deg. left turn . In 2nd gear (usually can get the rear to break loose here for showing off )some tire smoke and shift to 3rd for a sprint to the next turn. BOOM sheared a bunch of teeth off. ride over. So its steel for me.

Oh yeah back to the thread. i buy new sprockets and chain every year. riveted chain.

You can use whatever you prefer as long as you keep it lubed and adjusted properly.

http://www.kneedraggers.com/list/ca...ZX11&vehicle_make=Kawasaki&vehicle_model=ZX11
 

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Yeah, aluminum is much weaker than steel, not to be trusted on big bore superbikes like the ZX11. My opinion at least.

I also don't trust the clip type master link, especially on big powerful bikes like the ZX11. The "new" style master link with the pins that you rivet with the special chain breaker & riveting tool (special threaded chain riveting vise!) is the way to go. Haven't seen those old style clip master links in years! Maybe the dealer is trying to get rid of old stock, and hoping you don't know?
 

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First, i'm not flaming on you. its your opinion. And i respect it. My experience with aluminum is:

Aluminum rear sprockets sure are pretty. UNTIL you rip the the teeth off of one. I was running hard up Fort Mountian(a lot harder than I should have been) Anyway I came out of a really tight 180 deg. left turn . In 2nd gear (usually can get the rear to break loose here for showing off )some tire smoke and shift to 3rd for a sprint to the next turn. BOOM sheared a bunch of teeth off. ride over. So its steel for me.

Oh yeah back to the thread. i buy new sprockets and chain every year. riveted chain.

You can use whatever you prefer as long as you keep it lubed and adjusted properly.

http://www.kneedraggers.com/list/ca...ZX11&vehicle_make=Kawasaki&vehicle_model=ZX11

Wow! I've never heard of that before. I've been running AFAM aluminum rears with no problems. And thats on the ZX11. My friends are riding them on their Busa's with considerably more power than me. We all drag race too, which is probably as abusive as it gets. I've seen 2 different guys rip the guts out of stock rear Busa hubs. I figured if the sprocket is out lasting the hub its gotta be alright. I'll still stick with the AFAM aluminum. my 2 cents.
T
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I ordered a DID 530 "superbike" riveted master link online and it wouldn't fit. The pins were too thick and wouldn't pass through my chain - OR it's own retainer plate for that matter! So I'm returning it to get a different type and see what happens. My slide clip disappeared from my master link and I... um... welded the posts to prevent the link coming apart. I love my welder! Ha ha. :lol Before I welded it, I just used a small "E" clip on each post which worked well, but I just didn't trust it.
 

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The installation of the clip should flow in the same direction as the chain. i.e. if you are looking at the upper section of the chain as it's installed on the bike, the closed end should be facing the engine.

Trick I learned motocrossing....never lost a clip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The installation of the clip should flow in the same direction as the chain. i.e. if you are looking at the upper section of the chain as it's installed on the bike, the closed end should be facing the engine.

Trick I learned motocrossing....never lost a clip.
Yes, that's what I did... and it only lasted a couple months.
 
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