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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know what these connections do or where they go? Also have a hanging idle around 3k rpms.

Recieved my 94 ZX11 from a friend who was ready to let her go. After sitting for two years and losing nuts and bolts to his other projects, I went through her and ordered most of the missing pieces. She fired right up!

The only thing that doesn't work electrically is the gas gauge. Not sure where the problem lies or if these connections are the culprit. If they are, I have no idea where they hook up at as they are the only loose connections anywhere. It's two loose/ open conectors located on the port(left) side of the seat. They are in line with the big multiple connector that runs to whatever box that is above the fuse holder.

The hanging idle I'm hoping is a vacuum leak. I am still waiting arrival of 2 screws for my air box to boot plate. My jets are clear, pilot air screws set at 1&3/4 turns as the manual says, replaced 2 diaphragms that had pinholes. I read on a previous post about hanging idle and tried the recommended solution of setting the pilot air screws out further. After continual adjustments and tests, the results were the same. She will idle at 3k until I loosen the idle screw and she'll drop to 1k. However, after a rev she will go back to idling at 3k. Like stated, might just be the two missing screws.

Other than that she runs great! A lot faster than my 01 Suzuki GS500.

Shout out to cmsnl.com for having anything partzilla didn't. And to Siriusconic.com for the diaphragm replacements.

Thanks for reading and hopefully, the advice.

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Pull the carbs, completely disassemble them and make sure to pull the pilot jets and run a very small wire thru them .
 
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Do you have a wiring diagram? It should shows what they are for.
Hint: they could be for optionnal accessory.
 

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The blue and white wire is "not used"
The black and yellow (ground) gets run to the negative terminal on the battery.
At least, that is the way I have mine wired.
As Blaine stated, hanging idle could be the pilot circuit. Just pull the carbs off but dont take off the cables, invert the carbs, and pull the bowls. Then just pull the pilots and clean them out. (place a paper towel inside each bore so you dont drop a jet in there.) Takes about a half hour tops.
 

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Removing deposits out of the very, very small hole of any jet could be very hard to do. And driving a metallic strand inside the hole could "modify" the diameter of the jet's hole and affect the fuel flow result. For this reason, installing new jets is also an option to consider. OEM are expensive but, many years ago, I found a source for after-market ones that were about half the price of OEM.
 

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Dissasemble the carbs is the best option, but before this I would try Liquimoly to clean the jets, the first time I used it I've noted a much smoother idle than before and now I use it regurlarly. This one:
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Discussion Starter #7
I suppose I could be a bit more thorough in cleaning the carbs. Thanks for the suggestions! Might as well check the other 2 diaphragms I didn't change while I'm at it.

Mace, do you have that ground wire extended to reach the battery? As the wire sits on mine it won't reach the battery.
 

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It may not need to be grounded,however I ran that ground to neg. terminal in my attempts to get mine running.
When I reviewed another bike, the wire was jumped into the one already existing @terminal, so I did the same.
Also, the entire pilot circuit must be clean (jets and passages) to get that immediate drop in rpm after throttle application.
Not saying that is definitely your problem, but It may be.
 

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Removing deposits out of the very, very small hole of any jet could be very hard to do. And driving a metallic strand inside the hole could "modify" the diameter of the jet's hole and affect the fuel flow result. For this reason, installing new jets is also an option to consider. OEM are expensive but, many years ago, I found a source for after-market ones that were about half the price of OEM.
The mistake that many make on this is trying to ram the wire in thru the SAME direction as the "FLOW" of gas. All one ends up doing is cramming the blockage in deeper and more impacted. I cleaned Pilots 2 or 3 times over the years, and eventually bought new replacements, which isnt a bad idea, but if u r carefull u can clean them w/o changing the pilot orifice size, even if u do, u may go from a 38 to a 38.75. Im running stock exhaust and never noticed any issues, but I replaced them when 1 jet was soo F'ed up, replacement was the best choice, and overall, the best solution.

Another thing Folks miss are the bleed holes just before the Carb butterfly opening. The open Pilot feeds these holes, and assists with the transfer from idle circuit to 1/4 throttle as the butterfly opens, so u can clean/replace the Pilots, and do not clean these out, u will have the same problem, and end up wondering WTF to do next....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So while cleaning the pilot jet I noticed some crud. Looked inside the empty ports on the carb and saw some more, almost looked like sand. Didn't want to push a cotton swab down there and push the crud further in. Ran out of carb cleaner so I think I'll go buy some more and squirt it while holding the carbs right side up. Unless there's any better ideas.....
 

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I know most don’t have access to an ultrasonic cleaner but they are amazing. I have cleaned a set if carbs thoroughly and then put them into my cleaner. The silt that comes out is unreal. Looks like really fine black sand. I use this for my shop and can justify the cost but tough to justify for an owner.
 

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So while cleaning the pilot jet I noticed some crud. Looked inside the empty ports on the carb and saw some more, almost looked like sand. Didn't want to push a cotton swab down there and push the crud further in. Ran out of carb cleaner so I think I'll go buy some more and squirt it while holding the carbs right side up. Unless there's any better ideas.....
👍 If the ZX11 has any weaknesses, its that her carbs like to get plugged up on a regular basis. In the 45K+ miles Ive owned mine Ive dismantled the carbs 3 times. 1st time when I bought her, 2nd time 20k in, 3rd time 6 summers ago, when she left me stranded while cruising down the street!! she just bogged up and died, and wouldnt even start. 3rd time I completely replaced ALL the fuel lines & tank filters because I noticed that they were beginning to rot and leave deposits in the carbs...

My Life in the Bush of Ghosts......

Riding on my Bike, BEEP BEEP, boy the sun sure is neat......

Word of Wisdom from Ticketplease
Blaine, not sure but I remember in the 90's Sea-Doo used grey fuel lines and they decomposed on the inside putting small pieces of black s*#t in the fuel. In a 2 stroke this was death if the engine ran lean, OUCH! Anyhow the lines on my 1996 are grey fuel lines which is why I changed mine for new lines when I got my bike. That could be your problem. If you can look at them that might be it. Just a thought, Ticket
 

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I really can't complain, since I've changed PJ with bigger ones (more than 7 years ago) I didn't touched the carbs and she still runs perfect.
 

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I really can't complain, since I've changed PJ with bigger ones (more than 7 years ago) I didn't touched the carbs and she still runs perfect.

Well everything spins the opposite direction where u live @ anyway, Victor LMAO!!
 

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lafave132

The only two wires I have coming from there on my 2000 model zzr zx1100d is Black/Yellow -and- White/Yellow which has a 'Spade-connector' and goes to the Petrol Tank, fuel gauge I'd say, But that said, going by your top pic, your two wires are not encased in insulating tubing and come out closer to the battery ?

Yours might be an added feature, as I dont have any others similar from my harness in the area
I hope this is useful ?
W_0708.jpg

W_0709.jpg
W_0711.jpg
 

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Anyone know what these connections do or where they go? Also have a hanging idle around 3k rpms.

Recieved my 94 ZX11 from a friend who was ready to let her go. After sitting for two years and losing nuts and bolts to his other projects, I went through her and ordered most of the missing pieces. She fired right up!

The only thing that doesn't work electrically is the gas gauge. Not sure where the problem lies or if these connections are the culprit. If they are, I have no idea where they hook up at as they are the only loose connections anywhere. It's two loose/ open conectors located on the port(left) side of the seat. They are in line with the big multiple connector that runs to whatever box that is above the fuse holder.

The hanging idle I'm hoping is a vacuum leak. I am still waiting arrival of 2 screws for my air box to boot plate. My jets are clear, pilot air screws set at 1&3/4 turns as the manual says, replaced 2 diaphragms that had pinholes. I read on a previous post about hanging idle and tried the recommended solution of setting the pilot air screws out further. After continual adjustments and tests, the results were the same. She will idle at 3k until I loosen the idle screw and she'll drop to 1k. However, after a rev she will go back to idling at 3k. Like stated, might just be the two missing screws.

Other than that she runs great! A lot faster than my 01 Suzuki GS500.

Shout out to cmsnl.com for having anything partzilla didn't. And to Siriusconic.com for the diaphragm replacements.

Thanks for reading and hopefully, the advice.

View attachment 17737 View attachment 17738 View attachment 17739
 

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I also had hanging idle. It's common on these bikes. Looks like your running stock non drilled slides so you most likely don't have a jet kit I'm guessing.
Shimming the slides and carb sync may help you with the hanging.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
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