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My cylinders and rings were in great shape. I was pleasantly surprised.

The rod was tight to move back and forth so that's gotta be it. If it isn't, I'm going to replace the bearings as a precaution.

I have that same debris but a lot more of it.
That is good news about the cylinders and rings at least.

There was plenty more come out of mine that what was in that picture. That was what washed out of the oil filter that sits in the sump. The sump itself was full of it.

Keep us updated with the condition of your shells when you have undone the conrod bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Lmk if you need bearings
Will do sir!


Would you happen to know what tool or bit I need to get those star shaped bolts out of the Conn rods?
 

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After CCM saying that those shavings are not from the rings. I have to say I agree, I cannot see that much material coming off the rings at a time and not damaging the ring/bores in the process. This confirmed by the fact that you saying that that area looked fine led me to think where else there could be copper in the engine? Really the only place could be the shells. After cutting through an old one as I mentioned before, I did not see any copper in its make up. I could not get my head around it. Being the double checking type of guy that I am, I decided to scrape away at the inside surface. Low an behold there is copper in there. It is such a super thin layer just below the silver coloured coating. When I cut straight through the first time, it was so thin I missed it looking at a cross section. Probably the first bit you are likely to wear too when they start to fail.

So, likely this could be it as we thought :frown2:

I will be tearing mine down too, so will compare notes as it seems we both have the same debris and I would expect our findings to be the same.

 

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Not sure if you saw my post in my other build thread Turbo, but I have exactly the same but on a different rod. I took the cylinders off and conrod number 1 is really really tight to move back and forth. I have not had chance to split the cases yet, but I would certainly bet the copper shavings are indeed off the shells on that conrod.

Can I ask with regards to your pistons. Are you planning on re-using the piston pin circlips on reassembly or is that big no no? I am not sure you can get the Wiseco ones outside of the piston kit.
 

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I must admit I have always been told the same and have not done it before. I thought it would be worth asking on the off chance it was ok to reuse them, just because I cannot find them sold separately over here in the UK.

EDIT…

Found the same size is used in a lot of motocross bikes. Managed to get some genuine ones from an MX shop
 

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Turbo – Some food for thought regarding your cam chain tensioner. Last weekend at my race meeting my bike just kept losing power and I could not work out why. Then in the last practice session it started making a rattling noise from the cam chain side of the engine. I took the tensioner out and the spring that holds the catch popped out (not the tension spring) and the catch had jammed. It would not move forwards and was completely locked in one place. We managed to free the catch and get the spring back in place, but it did it again after the next session. In the end I had to cut down a bolt, slide it down the tensioner and then shim it with smaller washers one by one until I got the tension right.

Until that point I was all in favour of auto tensioners, but now I must say I am leaning the other way and will probably go manual for race use where they are under more stress. Not sure if I was just unlucky, but when asking around the paddock if other 7R riders had a spare tensioner 2 of them said that they have had ones fail on them in the past.

I fully understand your reasons for wanting to go with the auto tensioner and am not trying to convince you otherwise, but feel that it would be worth letting you know my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Pffff, go gear drive
Chris,

At this point, I might want to look into that since my engine is completely apart again.

How much would an operation like that cost me altogether? I'm pretty much riding the H2 this season on the track so I can take my time with this motor now.
 

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RR crank
Kit cylinder
Kit head
Gear drive cassette
Crank gear
Cam gears
Cct block off
Cassette locator pin
Gear drive bolts
Kit cdi (to take advantage of higher valve train accuracy)
Kit or aftermarket valve train (if you want to take advantage of higher possible rpm)
 

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What is listed is the NEED to have. That's why when people try to sell the gear drive cassette by itself, it is just a paperweight unless you have access to the rest (aka: know CCM).
 

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RR crank, kit crank, and factory works cranks are splined on end, ergo they have removable gear to drive cam chain or gear drive. Std crank has gear to drive chain cast on it. Can't be changed.
Std cylinder has no provisions for gear drive nor does head
 

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I guess that all makes sense.

Will be interested to see if Turbo goes down this route :). Obviously his overbored cylinder would need replacing, and re-boring the kit cylinder. Also his lightened crank, which may well be toast now any depending on the extent of the conrod shell damage. My crank has had it and my engine showed all the same issues has his when stripping it down.
 

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I guess that all makes sense.

Will be interested to see if Turbo goes down this route :). Obviously his overbored cylinder would need replacing, and re-boring the kit cylinder. Also his lightened crank, which may well be toast now any depending on the extent of the conrod shell damage. My crank has had it and my engine showed all the same issues has his when stripping it down.
not kit cylinder
 
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