I agree it may be one of the most epic motos ever made.
However, Kawasaki engineered the electrical system in a way where cranking voltage gets dispersed through too many channels before actually arriving at the starter relay. This is why it needs almost 13 volts to even fire.
For example, unlike Suzuki, the Kawasaki must pass voltage through the Ignition, start switch, IGN coils, Fuel pump relay, fuel pump, diode, etc. This all takes voltage from the starter relay.
6 to 7 volts instead of a solid 12.
There was a very clever post by a dude on zxforums where he stops this problem forever by delivering 12 volts to the starter relay by modifying the JB.
After this modification, when you push the starter button, it will send 12 v to the starter relay via the ACC fuse.
IM putting this here for future reference and to keep the zx7r on the road.
as the wiring harness and components age, this problem will only get worse for owners and this is a viable solution.
I cleaned the carbs again and the bike runs well, however sometimes it wont send full voltage to the starter relay unless I unplug the fuel relay.
I will likley do this mod tomorrow and post results.
Cant take credit for this, and I didnt get the dudes name but this is valuable information.
So here is what I have so far. Recleaned the carbs. Ethanol evaps quickly and leaves a film inside the pilot jets.
runs great but every so often it wont engage starter, so I have to chase down the ghost or do the above mentioned mod.
I was going to do a race replica, but after seeing how much its gonna cost me to have a fully functional paint booth with compressor and gun,
Im just gonna rattle can it in the backyard.
Maybe one day Ill have a suitable garage to do proper work, until then Its all backyard.
Went through the whole bike with contact cleaner and disassembled the junk aftermarket start switch. The switch was corroded and worn. It now starts every time, however the switch is so worn sometimes you have to push the button at an angle but it always fires.
The headlights will not come on anymore, I think the diode inside the JB is toast. I will wire the lights to toggle and begin paint and body.
50 buck backyard special. Scored some ram air and windscreen and stuff from a good ol boy down the road.
IN retrospect I should have left the front wheel black. I may rethink the front wheel color once I mount the fairings and place the bellypan decals.
I think its just what Im used to from my stunt days. I never took much time to make a bike too pretty.
It was only a waste of time because I was gonna wreck it anyways. Old habits are hard to break.
I put some new parts on the bike but i still have an intermittent problem with the starter refusing to disengage. It only happens sometimes, but it is annoying as hell.
hopefully ill have it sorted soon.
Thanks for posting bro, leave me a DM you have any links to those gsxr builds i am a huge GSXR fan
I am also huge Kawasaki fan, a Honda fan and a Ducati admirer.
if it has an R in the name , Im all in.
The Junction box is the cause of my starter not disengaging, so I just put a kill switch on the red and yellow wire until the new JB shows up.
Now that is sorted. The bike was sold to me without front engine mount bolts...I had to wait for them to come in and be placed before I can take it for its first ride.
Sourcing a upper fairing stay is expensive, so I just am going to use this old 1995 stay from a previous build until i find a 96+ stay.
I dont have a go pro and Im not a moto blogger, but Ill try to get some video of the first shakedown.
I coated the tank with 2 stroke oil when i cleaned it, so Id like to put a tank of petrol through the bike.
Ordered some LED wedge bulbs for the gauges as the current bulbs are blown, and also a led strip for the taillight. Just doing some minor stuff now........
Optilux Extreme Yellow XY H4 bulb at Pep Boys
Could not resist the first test ride.
I need a GoPro, sorry for the shit quality, Im always nervous on the first test ride,but this bike pulls hard.
Way harder then my last zx7r. I almost thought it may have head work or something. Smooth.
I dont have a tailight or tag on it and passed about 3 LEO, so I just took it home to finish it and maybe on my next shakedown ill have a better video.
So the chain is binding up only on one link. I go back and look at the old sprocket, I mean jeez, Ive never seen one this bad.
I put the bike up on stand and rotate wheel. the chain binds on the sprockets only on one link; the master. The master on there is a DID master just like the chain.
However, the master is clearly longer from pin to pin then the rest of the links. Never seen this before, Ill try a different master, the one on there is like 1 or 2 mm longer than the rest.
I guess thats why this old sprocket looks like this.
New junction box arrived and solved all my lighting and ignition problems. I must have put too much solder on the old junction box doing that mod, causing 12 volts to go to the solenoid at all times with ignition on.
I still have the low beam on toggle, so now I can use the stock switch to have both beams on, just use the toggle for the yellow beam, or turn off yellow beam and only use right white beam.
which is ideal because the laws about amber headlights are sketchy at best. When the chain comes in, ill button it all up and do a vlog and photo shoot at the beach.