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Hey I need a new ignition switch. My old one is messed up. The table on the inside that tells what position the key is in has a burnt bubble on the hot (white) and ground (brown). Does anyone have a replacement for a decent price? I mean its only 130-144 depending where I wanna order it from, but would also help if I could just replace the little wire table inside of it.

Also I was thinking to just straight wire the switch to by pass till I get my switch, which will make my bike that much easier to still.. but I am not worried about that so much. I have been looking and looking, but can't find in my head to do so. Can someone help me on to bypass my bikes Ignition Switch? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Found from another post on here..

I found this from an other poster on here.. but i don't fully understand.. please help and explian..



this will sound simple, but you connect all the wires together except the grey one, connect the grey one to a 100 ohm resistor to the white wire, put the on-off switch from the rt bar in series in the white wire. (remember to conect the old wires from the rt switch together)
now the rt bar switch is the ignition and kill switch
 

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I did a google search and found many for under $50 most at $35. Id simply replace it. Pre FI wiring harness connections are close to the same on a wide variety of models. Igniton is very wide. And can sometimes still open the fuel and seat realease or be keyed to.

Just search your year and kawasaki and youll be suprised what pops up versus doing a model specific search.
 

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update..

Today I went to my bike. Got me a toggle switch and a 100 ohm resistors, got my switch on, hooked the white wire with the resistor and the gray wire to the other end of the resistor. Put the other 3 wires together (twisted to themselves) one would be the tail light, ground, and oil light got nothing going on. So I took the other two wires, tail light and oil light, and put them to the white wire. It started turning over. I left the ground wire out. After 2 hours. I had to leave the bike. I came back to the bike and started her right up. Fuels (ig, tail, head and acc) blew. I replaced them, tired to start her again. She started no problems this time, let her warm up and clean the system out. Turned her off and tried again, blew the fuses again..

My question is what am i doing wrong? Should I not have the other wires to the white wire? Should I use my harness ground wire verses wiring my own ground from the switch or what? Any help would really help out a lot. I am wanting to ride my damn bike, lol, and need to just get this one thing right and my head is running outta idea's. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Send me Privatemessage

If u have a good general idea or know how to truly do it send me a private message.. I think I got it but cost me my ic ignitor.. Got a new one on the way.. But need to bump heads, don't want to burn a new one up! Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I found on my manual that the white wire is battery, brown is ignition gray is ignition and the others 2 would be oil lamp n tail light.. Battery would run to main switch power.. Other wires together with resistor.. So gray with one end of the resistor (100 ohm) the other end of resistor to the brown,red/blue and tail.. Forgot the color.. Attach to the ACC of the switch and ground switch off and should be good! 96 Kawasaki zx9r b-3 for the track runners and bypasser's..
 

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were you ever able to figure this one out. I am trying to bypass my ignition but i haven't been able to crack this one. I blew my 30amp fuse once and i don't want to damage anything so if you made any head way let me know. PM me if you would

THanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yes i had bypassed my ignition.. then took the toggle switch off and bought a ignition.. go tired of going out and then having to turn around and check on my bike to make sure that it was still there.. but u can add another "Kill switch" hidden somewhere else that has to be turned on before the bike will do anything.
 

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In the mean time find where the wires connect inside the switch take a piece of scrap copper wire and connect one end to the other where they go into the switch and just bypass it that way
Ok so brought a aftermarket ignition switch and came without the resistor as my old white piece on my ignition switch is for what ever reason stuffed so can I just put a copper wire to the same wires that the resistor on my old ignition were on ??
 

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That I am sad to say makes no sense what so ever.
My old white piece. What the Fek is the old white piece ??

Pictures might help us understand what on earth your on about ;)
Yeah sorry my mate has taken my ignition to solder a resistor on to the back of the white piece which is what all the wires go onto that fits into the actual ignition piece I'm not sure what it's called it's the bit that turns when turning over the bike with all the wires in it the resistor sits at the back of it connecting all the wires and soldered to the back so that when you turn the key the back bit turns but without the resistor it turns all the power on but doesn't go to the coil packs without the resistor the one I brought had no resistor so won't start there must be away of starting without the ignition system tho do I have to run a wire to the coil pack and the fuel pump because the fuel pump isn't working without the resistor either I may take the ignition to Kawasaki to put resistor on if my mate can't do it but id like to start my bike up it's been 6 months since she has started
 
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