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That screw will adjust the right two carbs and the left two carbs. As for the gap. It should be stopped against the linkage. That is what makes the adjustment work.
If you look in the carbs, with the airbox off, at the bottom of the intake throat, there will be a series of tiny holes. Each throat should have the same amount of holes exposed. If they are drastically different, you will struggle to have it idle. This is where the fuel is drawn up from the bowls through the pilot jets.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
That screw will adjust the right two carbs and the left two carbs. As for the gap. It should be stopped against the linkage. That is what makes the adjustment work.
If you look in the carbs, with the airbox off, at the bottom of the intake throat, there will be a series of tiny holes. Each throat should have the same amount of holes exposed. If they are drastically different, you will struggle to have it idle. This is where the fuel is drawn up from the bowls through the pilot jets.
Ok, I will check this out later today, I also removed the main jets and pilot jets to soak in cleaner overnight. I will update. Appreciate all the help brotha
 

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If the main issue is starting and idle, the pilot jets will be critical to get perfectly clean. Also, all of the passages from the pilot jets.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If the main issue is starting and idle, the pilot jets will be critical to get perfectly clean. Also, all of the passages from the pilot jets.
I got a question on the butterfly, when you said the holes need to be visible, were you talking about on the bottom? ( With the carb removed and upside down ) or when it is still on the engine, looking through that way?


This what I adjusted them too just a minute ago. Wrong way, or should it work?
18097
18099
18100
 

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Discussion Starter #27
If the main issue is starting and idle, the pilot jets will be critical to get perfectly clean. Also, all of the passages from the pilot jets.
And yeah, just cant get it to start without ether and idle without some throttle.
 

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Yes, the holes are just appearing under the butterfly. That is where the fuel comes into the Venturi through the pilot circuit. Need to make sure the carbs are really clean and especially the small pilot passages.
Make sure that the float bowls are filling to the correct levels and then it should start.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes, the holes are just appearing under the butterfly. That is where the fuel comes into the Venturi through the pilot circuit. Need to make sure the carbs are really clean and especially the small pilot passages.
Make sure that the float bowls are filling to the correct levels and then it should start.
Are those holes in a good location? Or should I close one off or... etc? I want to 100% before I put it all back together for the 100th time 😂😂
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I've given up, taking it to a shop monday. Thanks all for the help!
Ok so I'm not going to take it to a shop 😂 cant find one around me that wants to mess with it... guess I'm stuck working on it till its complete... I've made very good progress tho! I have gotten it to idle around 1100 RPM and sit there for a whole heat cycle and everything! When I rev it up it kinda hesitates a little when given quick throttle but doesn't when I ease into it ( not sure if normal or not due to my lack of knowledge of carbureted engines, I've was trained on Fuel Injection and not much on carbs ) and it returns to normal idle like a normal bike. The only down side is that it still will not start-up on it's own! 🤬🤬🤬 I still need to hit the carbs with a little fluid to fire it up but, man 😅 once it does its sounds beautiful!! I just cant figure this thing out yet so I'm going to tell you what I'm thinking.

The "Petcock" ( I believe it's called ) IMO may not be a OEM part... it sits super tight to the piece of gas tank near it and requires me to turn it with a pair of needle nose. It will also leak a little gas when I turn it sometimes which has me concerned. Could this be the problem?...... or what about the floats being a little out of adjustment?

Now I did notice that cylinder 4's carb is drawing a lot more air into the intake port of the carbs than all the other ones. 1, 2, and 3 are about the same but cylinder 4 is noticeably different. Not sure it this it a bad thing and possibly mortal thing or something I dont need to worry about since the bike runs with no miss fire... My buddy even came over to check it out to see what he thinks and he said its idling better than both of his 😂😂😂

I'm stupid confused and have little money since this virus stuff I can just throw parts at it..
 

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Now I did notice that cylinder 4's carb is drawing a lot more air into the intake port of the carbs than all the other ones. 1, 2, and 3 are about the same but cylinder 4 is noticeably different.
Have you sync'd the carbs? Sounds like they're out of sync. You can build a manometer pretty easily and cheap to sync em.
 
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