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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, new to the bike world. I bought a 2000 ZX7R and was told it was just a fuel pump issue. New fuel pump in, relay in, filter in, carbs are cleaned and new spark plugs. The bike WILL run but I need to spray starting fluid into the intake of the carbs to fire it up and then I need to keep constant throttle pressure to keep it running ( around 2k-2500 rpm ). As soon as I let off the throttle it stalls itself.. i dont know much about carbs so I'm pretty much lost. It runs flawlessly too until I let off the throttle. I need to know what my next step should be.. synchronize them? Did I forget an adjustment? I have no idea... it got me banging my head against the wall so any help would be fantastic.
( Mid- Michigan area if anyone is local )
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is the idle adjustment screw wound out too far? Could be something very simple.
Is that the screw that was attached to the cable that ran off to the left side? When I took the carbs off it broke, it had some solder on it or something, could that be causing the problem? Because I've messed with that screw countless times and I still cant get it to fire up and idle on it's own..
 

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Hi , i recently repaired my mates 750 srad , i chased my tail for a while and found the cause for poor running to be the coils , they were not holding ohm's .
Once i removed them to obtain a correct reading i found it was very poor. I fitted an after market set of coils for £120 GBP and it was all gravy from there. He has been on 2 track-days since so it may not have been the main reason for the poor running but it certainly needing doing
Probably check your plugs once fitted , it will tell you how each carb is performing ie, you may have one carb not receiving enough / to much fuel . This is another tell tail sign that you may need the carbs stripped down and ultrasonically cleaned in a bath.
hope this helps
Archy
 

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just for reference i think the coils once removed from the bike were supposed to hold between 12-18 ohmns for the 750 srad i think , i cant remember to be fair but they only held between 2-5 so they were shot hell and back!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi , i recently repaired my mates 750 srad , i chased my tail for a while and found the cause for poor running to be the coils , they were not holding ohm's .
Once i removed them to obtain a correct reading i found it was very poor. I fitted an after market set of coils for £120 GBP and it was all gravy from there. He has been on 2 track-days since so it may not have been the main reason for the poor running but it certainly needing doing
Probably check your plugs once fitted , it will tell you how each carb is performing ie, you may have one carb not receiving enough / to much fuel . This is another tell tail sign that you may need the carbs stripped down and ultrasonically cleaned in a bath.
hope this helps
Archy
When I get it running via ether, it runs smoothly, no hiccups, miss firing nothing, sound beautiful! I just cant get her to start and idle on her own.. I'm not erasing the coils out of the question but wouldn't it be running like $#!+?
 

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When you start the bike with the throttle closed, the idle screw holds the butterfly open slightly to allow the pilot circuit to feed mixture into the Venturi. If the butterfly is closed, no fuel or air getting in will cause problems starting or idling.
I would make the idle screw my first repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've been doing some thinking, my floats move flawlessly but I didnt pay attention to the needle in them. Could they be needing adjustments?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When you start the bike with the throttle closed, the idle screw holds the butterfly open slightly to allow the pilot circuit to feed mixture into the Venturi. If the butterfly is closed, no fuel or air getting in will cause problems starting or idling.
I would make the idle screw my first repair.
Ok, I'll have to order a new one since mine is destroyed
 

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the needles should have the same clearance and should be clean and free , Iam sure you are getting there now though
 

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If you are referring to the float needles, the only adjustment is the float height. If you did nothing to alter them, they will not be causing the issues you describe.
If it is a starting/ idle issue as mentioned, it is purely running off the pilot circuit. You need the butterfly to be correctly open part way before moving into any other piece. Otherwise you change 5 things and will never work out the issues.
Once you install the idle screw, close the butterfly all the way. Then slowly screw it in until the butterfly begins to open slightly. Make sure that the same amount of pilot holes in the bottom of the Venturi are exposed in all 4 carbs. This will put you in the ballpark to begin working through issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I went to purchase a New idle stop screw and cable and I noticed there should be a spring on it. Mine is no longer there and I dont believe it even had one when I bought it. So I got a few questions, one, could that spring be the problem of it not staying idle? And next one, do any other bikes share that same part with it? Because I cant find one and Kawasaki has them back ordered with no ETA apparently...
 

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Are the slides operating okay? But yeah if you are missing the idle cable that's a very, very good start.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright guys, I installed a new throttle stop screw( circled in blue) and have been continuously messing with the thing to get started. Now, I pulled all the plugs once I got it running( still with ether ) #1, looks good, #2 looks just as well as #1, and then #3 I noticed it was showing it was a little lean, and then #4 was completely lean 🙃. Did some more looking around maybe to find a culprit and the screw circled in orange has a noticeable gap between it and its setting on the pulley. Could this be why it's running lean?
18091
18092
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alright guys, I installed a new throttle stop screw( circled in blue) and have been continuously messing with the thing to get started. Now, I pulled all the plugs once I got it running( still with ether ) #1, looks good, #2 looks just as well as #1, and then #3 I noticed it was showing it was a little lean, and then #4 was completely lean 🙃. Did some more looking around maybe to find a culprit and the screw circled in orange has a noticeable gap between it and its setting on the pulley. Could this be why it's running lean? View attachment 18091 View attachment 18092
That screw is also all the way tightened..
 

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Get it started again.
Then test each header tube to see which ones are piping hot.
If three and four arent sizzling,you likley have a carb issue, and we can lead you through a simple pilot jet clean to make it
vroom
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This was the number 4 cylinder spark plug.. white as a ghost... cylinder 3 had a little at the end but not nearly as much as 4.
18093
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Get it started again.
Then test each header tube to see which ones are piping hot.
If three and four arent sizzling,you likley have a carb issue, and we can lead you through a simple pilot jet clean to make it
vroom
In curious on how this will tell me if they are mixing well? I was always told that method was for finding a misfire.. do you know what the screw pictured is called? I have a feeling it's some sort of sync screw. ( Its connected to the throttle pulley )
 
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