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How To Remove Carb Assembly?

5K views 38 replies 7 participants last post by  ninjanut 
#1 ·
I need to remove the carburetor assembly for cleaning. I removed the choke cable per Clymer manual instructions and loosened the throttle pull/push cables. I also loosened all four clamp screws to the point of the clamps freewheeling. When I try to lift up the assembly it won't budge. The whole bike moves back instead. What's going on here? Any tricks before I just put the whole thing back together and tow it to a mechanic?
 
#32 ·
I purchased two cans of carb cleaner today and will try this as my last ditch effort. Thus far I removed the float bowls from two carbs and am soaking the main jets and their holders plus the pilot jets. I am planning on removing the pilot screws and soaking them too. Is it really necessary to remove the diaphram covers? I know I will have to drill out many of the cover screws and don't want to unless I absolutely have to. Any other advice would be great because I really don't know what the fuck I am doing.

BTW, I tested for spark at all four cylinders today before removing the carb assembly and they all looked good. I removed one spark plug and it was quite dry and a had a layer of black soot on it.
 
#36 ·
I finished cleaning the main and pilot jets. Most of the tiny holes were indeed still clogged. Sunlight did shine through them when I got done. The carb cleaner spray and compressed air worked well. I also sprayed out the passages for the mains and pilots. Upon removing/reinstalling one mixture screw I of course managed to somehow push the rubber O-ring into the tiny hole. The O-ring ended up being in a few pieces and pressed into the tiny hole for the needle. I got lucky and was able to blow them out with compressed air, or at least I hope. No O-ring debris can be seen looking into the recess and the tiny hole for the needle looks clean and air blows through. So now I wait for the replacement O-ring to arrive.

I also checked the float heights today and they were all 0.5625 inch which is within the Clymer specs of 0.43-0.59 in. Now a question about fuel level based upon this in the manual:

The correct fuel level must be maintained in each carburetor float bowl to obtain optimum performance. Carburetor calibration throughout the entire engine speed range depends largely on the correct fuel level. The actual fuel level, is a much more precise adjustment than the simple float height adjustment performed during carburetor assembly. The fuel level can actually vary between carburetors even though the float heights are all the same. Fuel level gauge (part No. 57001-1017) is required for this procedure. The fuel level gauge is available from Kawasaki dealerships
.

Do I need to purchase this or what? How do you check the fuel level using this gauge?
 
#37 · (Edited)
That fuel level gauge is simply a graduated straw (pic below). You want the fuel level in all 4 bowls to be the same and most will simply set the float heights all the same. Fuel level takes into account that each float may be slightly different.
Since most guys just do float height, it will get you close enough. To get them set exactly, you need fuel level. I would just get the float heights into spec and try it out.
When you hold the pilot jet to the light you should see 3 tiny holes on all sides. When you hold the emulsion tube up to the light you will see 3 holes on two opposite sides and 5 holes on the other two sides.
 

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#39 ·
You should already have the diaphragms and needles out to clean passages through. You shouldn’t be partially disassembling them, cleaning half then clean the other half.
Be organized and meticulous. Disassemble 1 carb at a time, place pieces in a container then move to the next one. Once everything has been removed, then start cleaning passages.
 
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