Kawasaki Ninja ZX Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, after 3 weeks of working on my new 1990 ZX11C with 6100 on the clock
Everything is stock except for the cam's but I have no way of confirming this.
I feel I'm very close to getting it running minty mint.
Here's what I've done so far.

Rust in the tank, Fixed Por-15, cured 96 hours.
Carbs rebuilt, new float valve, float valve seat/screen, float bowl gasket & o-rings.
Counted 3 turns in on the pilot screws and 3.5 on #3 carb.
2 cans of gumout, my carbs look almost new.
Checked fuel level in the bowls, all in Spec.
Checked for vacuum leaks, boots from the carbs to the heads are good.
Fresh set of nkg's double checked the gaps.

Ohm and gap tested the pickup coil, Ohms were good 380-570.
gap was at 0.5 should have been 0.7, she ran better after this adjustment.

Static tested the coils,
Both primary resistance were @ 3.0 Ohms and are in spec
Both secondary resistance were @ 23,000 +/- 1500 Ohms, should be 12,000-18,000
Checked the timing, left side coil good, right side coil out of time.
Hard to get a steady idle to know for sure.

Half fast synchronized the carbs, got them close.
I tried different adjustments on the pilot screws.
1 1.5 1.3/4 2 2.5 3.0 3.5
Took apart the IC ignitor, contacts were filthy.

I think that's about it.
Before the tear down of the carbs and tank coating
she was very hard to start and would not idle, I had to leave the choke
on 3/4 at the red lights, once I took off I could close the
choke and she would run like a raped ape or at least until the next red light.
Throttle response was boggy for the first second or two after that
I could red line all the way.
Now after all the above she starts with no problem but very boggy on the rev's
and I cant get her to rev even close to red line.

I don't know if you can see it in the video but when I do get her to rev
a fine mist of gas comes out threw the carbs.
I double check everything with the book when I did the carbs.
The plugs are new and only have about a hours time on them but they
look clean, not wet or black but good and clean.

Things I haven't done.
Valve clearance, I don't have the gut's to yank the valve cover off.
I have been looking online at different after market coils and timing modules.
That include a new module with several settings, 2 high output coils @ 3.0 Ohms
and a pick up coil and wire harness.
$400.00 for the module kit and $200.00 for the coils.

My one and only Kawi dealer quoted me $300-$600 for the valve adjustment.
I'm at end of my rope here guys and I have been scouring all the forums,
I've picked up a lot of good stuff but I don't know what to do next.

PLEASE ADVISE !!!
Frankie Zee...
[URL=http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x98/frankiezee/?action=view&current=0d7f1698.flv][/URL]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
What is the slight knocking/tapping I hear? Hope it is not the same as I heard on mine... 2 days later - BOOM!! 3rd rod gone... From my understanding, valves on those bikes do not just go out of adjustment. The shims keep their seat pretty well...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
it's probably the quality of the video or the tool tray that I had on the back of the bike.
I don't know if the bike ever had the valves adjusted.
Frankie Zee..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Does it still bog with the air box and stuff on? I know my bike (1990 c-model) doesn't like not having the airbox on and the ram air tube hooked up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does it still bog with the air box and stuff on? I know my bike (1990 c-model) doesn't like not having the airbox on and the ram air tube hooked up.
I have the ram tube on but I never thought of putting the air box back on.
I'll give it a shot.
Thanks man.
Frankie Zee...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Adjusting the valves on a ZX-11 is not all that bad - I put together a small web page when I did them with a good friend. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/joelcool/valvezx11/valvezx11.htm

You should have a factory service manual if you want to do this job yourself. That's the only book with the required torque values.
Sweet I don't have the factory book but I'm working up the guts to do the job myself, where should I order the shims from ?
I'm going to bookmark your DIY site after I post.
That donen't look that hard, is there any way you could e-mail me the pictures so I could get a closer look ?
[email protected]

Thanks a million.
Frankie Zee...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Frankie Zee,

Larger rez pics won't really help you that much (plus I have no idea where the pics are :lol ). Looking at it in real life is what it's about.

Again, don't start until you have a factory manual, the right torque wrenches the time and space to do the job properly.

Your local shop should have shims. Salvage yards are another good place to pick them up. They are the same as Honda, Yamaha and Suzuki. Just get the right thickness once you figure out what you need. I've heard that some shops will trade but I've never seen that. Personally I just build up my own personal collection as I do valve adjustments.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll look around on e-bay for a factory shop book, I have a feeling there not going to be to common.
Frankie Zee...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
UPDATE !!!



Well thanks to this forum and others, I tried putting the air-box back on with everything connected.

I got my throttle response back, she starts without any choke.

It's still idling low and I can't get her above 850 RPM's and there's still that hesitation for the first second or 2.

See the updated video.
Notice the delay in the wrist twist and the engine response.

I have a new ignition coming, from the black box to the air pick up to the coils, $500.00 with wires and all.

also picked up new vacuum hose's and carb boots, another $200.00

Very expensive day yesterday was.



Here's the updated video, the only thing after the ignition will be the valve timing.



http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x98/frankiezee/?action=view&current=update.flv
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I re-attached the air box with all the tubes and what do you know.
I got my throttle response back, 3 days latter I got the ignition box in from Dyna corp and still couldn't get her to idle.
Two days after that I got the new coils and plug wires in and boom.
She now idles where I want her to, she doesn't stall at lights.
All is well, I would like to get the air mixture right.
She seems to be bogging down from 0 to 30 MPH but all in all she's running.
In the last two days I have clocked over 300 miles sweating my nuts off in the muggy heat were having here in NY, but I'm Happy.
Thanks to all for all the help, the air-box being re-attached was the 1st. turning point in getting her back on the road, followed by the new coils.
Thanks again guy's.
Frankie Zee...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Have you got the throttle cables adjusted for the correct amount of play - its not too sloppy is it before it starts to action?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cables are just right, I also yanked my carbs and adjusted my air\mix screws 2 out, re-sync the carbs.
She's running much better.
I think I may need a new chain and sprocket set.
Any advice on where and how much ?
one of the links seems to bind up as it goes around the front sprocket.
Also signs of rust on some of the links, new chain $188.00 please tell me this ain't right.
Frankie Zee...
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top