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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Day 1 into my breakdown clean out of my carbs, according to my Clymer book I have several parts missing :headscratch
I have had the bike for 2 weeks now and systematically tearing into her, gently of course.

The part that I'm having the most trouble with is called
( float vale seat, fuel screen & O-ring ) see Pic # 1,2 & 3



As you can see from the following pictures I'm tearing it up, I PB blasted several times. I can get it to rotate but it just won't come out.
This is the carb assembly Keihin CVKD40 from a 1990 ZX11-C by the way. She sat for ten years in the back of a garage.
The guy I bought it from said that he had the carbs torn down twice but never took care of the surface rust inside the tank.
I took car of the rust and now going threw the carbs cleaning and replacing anything that needs it.

Also Problem # 2 beside a few O-rings not being in there ( hoping this was my problem with starting/idling ) I came across a part in the clymer book that was not in the carbs,
it's called ( Air Flow Inlet Guide ) See photo # 2.



I couldn't find it anywhere on Kawasaki.com site that gave exploded views of all of the bike with all the part #'s.
Is the part necessary for the bike to run right ? I guess Kawasaki thought so?

As always any and all help is very grateful the shop wanted $350.00 to clean and sync my carbs, I'm doing for $200 and It includes brand new Vacuum gage set for syncing the carbs, the Cymler book, missing o-rings and a fuel tank sealer.
Frankie Zee...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
as long as I know for sure that I'm not going to break anything.
I was going to replace them anyway.
Any opinion on the ( air flow inlet guides ) the carbs have a cut out for them, I don't see the air coming in smooth.
The bike did run just not at idle and start up without 3/4 choke.
Anyone reading this point me in the right direction on a rebuild kit or
should I just order the parts I think I need ?
Frankie Zee...
 

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The bike did run just not at idle and start up without 3/4 choke
These old ninjas are cold blooded SOB's and are real sensitive to dirty carbs. My 90zx11 won't start and idle even on a hot day without the choke pulled for a few minutes and my carbs are so clean they should be museum pieces..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine was stalling at red lights, what about coil and what does the ignitor do ?
is it what I think, I know you need a good spark to run right.
Frankie Zee...
 

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The bike did run just not at idle and start up without 3/4 choke.
Your pilot jets are probably clogged.

These carbs do not have an "Air Flow Inlet Guide" as shown in your book. I suggest throwing that book in the garbage and checking the exploded views on this site:
http://www.buykawasaki.com/DefaultF...ductCatalog/PCCatalogTypes.asp?intCatalogId=1

What o-rings do you think you are missing? The ZX-11 C carbs don't have many o-rings.


The inlet seat normally does NOT need to be replaced, don't chew them up trying to get them out. Look at the inlet needle and check the black rubber area for wear. Leave it alone if there is no wear.

Hold the carbs upright and blow through the fuel inlet. Air should flow into the float bowls. Remove each bowl cover, one at a time, and listen to make sure air flows to each bowl.

Now turn the carbs upside down and try to blow into the fuel inlet again. Air should not flow into the carb floats, you should not be able to blow into the inlet with the carbs upside down.

If your carbs pass this test the inlet needles and seats should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks, I got them out last night after reading that nothing was holding them in other than the o-ring and 17 years of goo, I used a pair of ****'s. the needle nose pliers weren't working.
The other 3 came out with little fuss once I knew they would.
I found a re-build kit on e-bay for $65.00 it has what I think I need.
I the o-ring that I am missing is for the idle mixture screw all were 3 turns out except one that was 3 1/2 none of them had o-rings.

Happy day's soon to come.
thanks for the reply's guys.
Frankie Zee...
 

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The o-rings for the mixture screws might be stuck in the carb body. You should also have a spring and small washer on each mixture screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The o-rings for the mixture screws might be stuck in the carb body. You should also have a spring and small washer on each mixture screw.
Spring & washer were there but no o-rings and I checked with a flashlight and in direct sunlight, could this have been the cause of my bad idling and hard starting ?
Frankie Zee...
:headscratch
 

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Spring & washer were there but no o-rings and I checked with a flashlight and in direct sunlight, could this have been the cause of my bad idling and hard starting ?
Frankie Zee...
:headscratch
Could be. The o-rings prevent outside air from leaking past the air screw threads. Without the o-rings you could have a lean idle condition. Lean idle would definitely make it harder to start, too.
 

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could this have been the cause of my bad idling and hard starting ?
Could be, but you absolutely need to remove all 4 pilot jets and clean them out. The pilot jet passage is super small, you can use a single strand of speaker wire, gumout, and compressed air to clean them out. You should also gumout and blow out all of the passages in the carb body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Already done, I went threw a couple of cans of carb cleaner and a can of canned air that on use on my puters, wanna know a secret ? I'm a computer geek/realtor by day, Shhhh :squint
Of course that all changes once I'm off the clock. :afro
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Almost There...

Well half my parts are here and the other will be in a few days or so, I'm predicting Saturday or Sunday ride, Can't wait.
Where I am.

1) Tank has been flushed and coated with par-15 96 hours of curing time.
2) Carbs ripped down and cleaned.
3) Carb re-build kits in hand.
4) Bought timing light/Tach combo gun, on the way.
5) Air commander bought and on the way.
6) compression gauge bought and on the way.
7) Fuel screens and o-rings for carbs, on the way.
8) Carb tune II carb syncing gauges in hand.

I would imagine the first thing I need to do is get the bike idling right.
I was told that my bike has a competition cam installed, all I have is a sticker and I cannot verify this.
Once the idle is right then I should sync the carbs.
Then I will install the Air Commander kit and re-sync the carbs again.

Please if I'm doing any of the above out of order then PLEASE advise me.
While I have worked on my own cars for many years doing the above is all new to me and even with cars
I never messed around with the carb let alone four of them, forget about rebuilding one.

Question, with the timing and the possible comp-cam where do I set the timing and WHEN should I attempt this ?
When I removed my carbs I looked inside the head with a flashlight at the intake valves and noticed a mad amount of crud around the valves.
My first instinct was to grab a can of carb\brake cleaner but I resisted, I have learned to listen to that little voice inside my head, instead I'm asking you guys what I should do ?

There's no way I'm removing the head if that's what you answer is.
Valve adjustment how much $$$ ? the clock is showing 6100 miles.
That's why I bought a compression tester, would it show if the valves needed to be adjusted ?
What kind of numbers should I expect from the compression tests ?

As always guys any replies are always appreciated.
Thank You.
Frankie Zee...

The sticker from my bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I re-built my carbs today all went smooth.
I was prepping for the re-install and the syncing when I noticed that I don't have 4 separate vacuum lines to hook up the vac gages, I checked other sites on the matter and they all have 4 separate ports with plugs on them.
Carbs 1-2 are connected to 3-4 by a Y connection.
Now what I do ?
Frankie Zee...
 
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