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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally found the courage to start to clean my carbs this weekend. Once silly thing that I'm not sure of is how to take the freakin gas tank off. I undid all the bolts, but there are still two hoses hooked up to it that also hook up to the "off, on, reserve" switch. Am I supposed to clamp those off so the fuel doesn't leak out of them or what?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Shut the petcock OFF, then then unhook them. Grab a rag to catch any residual fuel that will be in the line.
 

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idk about your bike specifically, however my carbs are held on by nothing more than the boots on the carbs. Undo those clamps, and then the carbs come off.
 

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Sweet, victory is mine! Thanks Squidge. Now to take the carbs off, this is one of the bolts to take off right? ...
You do not need to take those bolts off, look at the same rubber piece and follow it to the bottom of the carb. Look for a Phillips screw, 1 and 2 carb the screw will be accessed from Left side of the Bike. 3 and 4 from the Right side of the Bike but the Spark Plug wires will be in the way normally, just go under them with the Phillips Screw Driver. Good Luck.
 

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Also, open the back of the throttle, the two Phillips screws behind the Kill and Start switch. That way you can remove your Throttle cables from the carbs.
 

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Also, open the back of the throttle, the two behind the Kill and Start switch. That way you can remove your Throttle cables from the carbs.
Times a million. I hesitated to do that the first time because it seemed overly complicated.

It is actually very easy, once I knew what I was doing I had them removed at the grip dozens of times while messing with the carbs.
 

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Times a million. I hesitated to do that the first time because it seemed overly complicated.

It is actually very easy, once I knew what I was doing I had them removed at the grip dozens of times while messing with the carbs.
EXACTLY, I hesitated and tried everything else no matter how many searches on all three forums said to do it... My trick is to loosen the bolts on the From Brake Handle, then Remove the back of the house to the kill switch, and just let it hang. Most times I can just slide the back right back on with (EDIT) OUT having to reroute the cables... Remember doing that the first time.... I just got a chill down my spine reliving that moment.
 

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Sweet, victory is mine! Thanks Squidge. Now to take the carbs off, this is one of the bolts to take off right?


Here is the rest of it taken apart for now.




Yikes! Get those tail fairings off the ground immediately!!! :eek:hno All it takes is was false step, move, or accidental scraping picking them up and you've got scratches for days!!!
 

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Also, open the back of the throttle, the two Phillips screws behind the Kill and Start switch. That way you can remove your Throttle cables from the carbs.
+1 Also, take as many pics as possible, from as many angles as possible of the routing of the throttle cables and of which one attaches where. This will come in handy when it's time to re-assemble. While you're at it, you might as well take the time to lube the throttle cables and clean under the throttle tube as well. It's amazing how much dirt/grime can get under the throttle tube.
 

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+1 Also, take as many pics as possible, from as many angles as possible of the routing of the throttle cables and of which one attaches where. This will come in handy when it's time to re-assemble. While you're at it, you might as well take the time to lube the throttle cables and clean under the throttle tube as well. It's amazing how much dirt/grime can get under the throttle tube.
Yeah, mine was disgusting.

Cleaned it all up, dragged a rag through the tube and then sprayed my chain lube all up under there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yikes! Get those tail fairings off the ground immediately!!! :eek:hno All it takes is was false step, move, or accidental scraping picking them up and you've got scratches for days!!!
They are in the way back part of the garage and now there is a desk actually barricading it. Maybe I'll put some nails up in the 2x4's and hang them up.

+1 Also, take as many pics as possible, from as many angles as possible of the routing of the throttle cables and of which one attaches where. This will come in handy when it's time to re-assemble. While you're at it, you might as well take the time to lube the throttle cables and clean under the throttle tube as well. It's amazing how much dirt/grime can get under the throttle tube.
I'm planing on taking as many pictures as possible. One of many things my dad taught me when we would work on the cars. I'll go ahead and clean and lube the throttle cables and tubes. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, so I managed to get the carbs off this morning and opened my first bowl. Here it is:


Now I know I need to take the brass screw(needle?) that's in the middle and the one in the deep hole just to the right. Then soak them and blow them out. But my question is, how long is the big brass screw supposed to be? when I took it out it was about 3/4 inch long. The ones I have seen on youtube videos have been about 1 1/2 long or so. what am I missing?

And what are some other things I should check while I have it opened?

Thanks for all your help so far. As you can tell this is my first time. It's actually a very simple process, just need to know what to do and remember where it goes :eek:hno ( thank goodness for digital cameras)
 

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Have you got any fuel in that tank? Id prop the front up before it starts to seep out the filler & under the paint.
Also check the diaphragms for tiny holes.
I were you, Id get me a good shop manual.
 

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There's also another jet (main jet) inside the emulsion tube (big brass screw in the middle), take it out as well.
Nope. Well, yes... I assume you mean the main jet is the one in the middle of the three brass doohickeys. To the right is the pilot jet. If that is what you meant, then yeah. But I think the OP already got that out.

There is nothing serviceable inside that phallic looking brass tube. And as far as I am aware, it is not even removable.
Me and ****** got into it about that, it is just a tube for the needle to sit inside while it is at rest rather than it just going through an open hole.

While you have them off the bike and the bowls off, make sure your main jets are in order - dont worry about the length of them. Not all carbs are the same.

The middle two carbs should have jets two sizes larger than the outer two.
For example, stock is 170, 180, 180, 170. Mine has a dynojet kit and is 136, 138, 138, 136.
All the needles should be at the same height.
All the floats should be at the same height.
All the pilot screws should be set the same.

Stock settings are the above jets, 13mm float height, 2 1/4 turns out on the pilots.

Dynojet kit says to put pilots to 2.5, and leave the float height "stock".

These things can be adjusted later for tuning purposes.
 
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