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Gen 2 oil pump cover

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4.2K views 49 replies 3 participants last post by  1441  
#1 ·
Hello all, i picked up a 2013 zx14r a couple months ago and have been trying to learn all i can about it. I've been riding for several years and have had a few Kawasaki's (650s and 636), a hayabusa, and now my zx14. The thing that i am reading that has me concerned is people having spun bearings on these motors. I see an oil pump cover being recommended by several people. I talked to my local bike shop owner who has drag raced turbo busas and 14's for decades and he said on a Gen 2 not to worry about it, however as i am searching around i am still seeing many people recommend it for Gen 2's. Whats the general consensus? My bike has 4k miles, full brocks exhaust, and tuned. I dont drag race at the track but do a decent amount of roll races and high speed runs.
 
#2 ·
Well my personal experience is that the oil pump cover mod is well worth the peace of mind. I owned a 2012 ZX14R and it threw a rod bearing(#3) because of the controversial design of the stock oil pump cover which is so thin that it flexes under high RPM riding which causes oil starvation. The part # for the oil pump cover for a Gen I is the same for the Gen II which means it's a carryover part that's being used on the Gen II's to this day. One month later I picked up a brand new 2023 ZX14R and I immediately ordered an APE Billet oil pump cover and installed it once my break-in period was over. No, not every ZX14R throw bearings, but I also believe that everyone rides their bikes differently, which if ridden in an aggressive manner on occasions like I did/do it's well worth cost to install one. If not for a preventative measure, I'd recommend it for a peace of mind at the very least. Fifty dollars and 1 hour of your time is nothing compared to a possible disaster waiting to happen. BTW, it's also recommended to fill your oil to the top of the oil level line or to use a complete 5 quarts of oil, instead of the 4.8 quarts as indicated in the owners manual. This helps with keeping the oil pressure up.
 
#4 ·
I was like you when I owned my 2012. I took care of my 2012 meticulously changing the oil every 3500 miles, and followed the owners manual as far as the maintenance schedule is concerned,. I checked my oil level before every ride so on and so on, just because I was aware of this issue but it eventually happened at the 35,000 mile mark. The ZX14R is a solid bike but the oil pump cover is it’s Achilles heel if one exists. That’s why I had no qualms or second thoughts on installing a aftermarket one when I picked up my 23.
 
#5 ·
I am the same way with all of my vehicles. Well shoot. Looks like I'm going to be ordering one today. Now I'm nervous that there may be damage done from the 4700 miles put on it without one. Is just the plate recommended or is the gear to increase pressure also a good idea?
 
#6 ·
I am the same way with all of my vehicles. Well shoot. Looks like I'm going to be ordering one today. Now I'm nervous that there may be damage done from the 4700 miles put on it without one. Is just the plate recommended or is the gear to increase pressure also a good idea?
 
#7 ·
There is a pressure relief valve in the oil pan, and aftermarket ones that increase the relief pressure from I think 65-70 lbs to 110 lbs. The gear won't do much if the pressure is being relieved in the pan with the factory relief valve still in there. I have the billet pump plate (not yet installed), but think the higher pressure relief valve is also a wise addition.
 
#8 · (Edited)
The gear and oil pressure valve is just extra added security and are used mostly by those who boost/turbo or mod their engines for increased performance. Also on a stock motor by adding a larger gear/oil pressure relief valve decreases performance due to the extra work the engine has to put out to compensate for those upgrades. It was recommended to me that if I was planning on keeping my motor stock, the oil pump cover was good enough. Also if you haven’t experienced any issues you’re good to go, and quite frankly you might be one of those who can ride it as is infinitely and never experience an oiling issue.

forgot to add….if you look at the many YouTube videos out there where owners take their bikes to the shop to have upgrades installed and then the after Dyno runs….the one mod you’ll always notice being mentioned and installed is the oil pump cover mod and these are bikes fresh from the dealership. One thing I haven’t ran across in all my years of owning a 14r is someone stating they threw a rod bearing who had the aftermarket oil pump cover installed. Need I say more.
 
#9 ·
Here’s a pic of my stock oil pump cover. Notice how thin it is. It flexes and gives during high RPM sessions. When it flexes the seal is lost thus causing a drop in oil pressure and the journals not being properly fed. The aftermarket one is 3 times thicker than the stock one.
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Aftermarket Oil Pump Cover

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#10 ·
I appreciate the input guys. Watching some videos on it now. I think for now im just doing the plate. I plan on keeping it as is...for now. Maybe a small nitrous shot in the future depending on where i am at that time. I love the bike so far. I got it dyno tuned and made 205/119, and i have been having fun with it. Sucks this is an issue, but i guess it could be worse.
 
#15 ·
I ended up doing mine all at once when installing the Brock’s clutch mod, track king clutch pack kit. I had all of it on hand when I hit the end of my break in period, so since all of it was in one area it made my decision easier just to do it myself all at once. I had ordered the clutch pack and Brock clutch mod because after I installed my Brock’s exhaust/Sprint F1 85 filter and flashed and tuned it, the brand new stock clutch was slipping at RPMs greater than 9,500 in 4th and 5th gear on hard pulls. The clutch mod and new clutch pack fixed that issue.
 
#17 ·
That’s all unless you have issues with shifting, some install a aftermarket shift star for better shifting. I don’t have an issue shifting so I opted not to install one. It’s located right behind the clutch basket so it makes sense to do it at the same time as the oil pump cover mod, that is if you don’t like the way your bike shifts.
 
#21 ·
No not that I can think of...The ZX14R is a solid bike and isn't known for issues other than the "possible" rod bearing failure, and that issue isn't widespread. My 2012 didn't have any issues and was rock solid up to the day it spun a bearing. That's why I didn't think twice to buy another one after my 2012 spun a bearing, with of course some peace of mind...the oil pump cover mod. Enjoy!
 
#22 ·
I really appreciate help. Fun little FYI before I go. I picked the bike up 4 and 1/2 hours away from home. The bike is absolutely mint condition. Looks like it just came off the showroom floor.4300 miles. Test drove it around the guys neighborhood. Everything checked out. We loaded up and get back home and I do a my first wot pull. I hit a about 140ish. Nothing crazy. I pull the clutch in at the end. Bike dies. I start it back up as I'm coasting down the interstate. Check engine light is on. my buddy flies up next to me on his s1k and yelling at me to pull over. He said I was blowing a ton of white smoke. I look down and, ya, white smoke just pouring out the exhaust. I get it home. Dump the oil and this bike had 9 quarts of oil in it!
 
#24 ·
Ya I couldn't believe it. It just wouldn't stop draining. There was oil all pooled up in the air box. Everything was soaked. I bet it had good oil pressure lol. I've been wondering how that even happens without being caught. Get done with an oil change and just say "I wonder where that old oil went "shrug "
 
#26 ·
I hate to bother you again, but do you happen to have a good video or post on the installation procedure? I have been searching and ive only been able to really find two videos on it, and they arent the greatest. They show tear down, but not reassembly. I am really looking for torque specs on eveything as well. Do you need to pull each individual clutch or can you pull the whole basket as one?
 
#27 ·
I used this video however I was familiar with that area of the motor beforehand since I had to change my clutch plates out on my previous 2012 ZX14R. Also the video is for a ZX14 and not a ZX14R but it’s identical internals and same process for both models.


also the torque specs for the 3 pump cover bolts is 87 lb-in (10 N∙m).

forgot to mention that I removed all clutch plates and steels before removing the basket. Suppose to make the process easier.