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(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)@yorkie , Thank You SOOOOOOOOOO MUCH for this!!!!! I wish I could be more indepth right now with it, and actually read and get into this and my bike, but my old neighbor from Pennsylvania has stopped by with her grandson and she will not quit talking, her little grandson is absolutely EVERYWHERE (my kids are in school), and she will not quit talking, and I don't wanna be rude and tell her to leave, but I do see all that you put there for me, and I'm soooo thankful for it!! Thank you so very very much at @yorkie!! I wish I could say more and actually start working on my bike, but until she leaves I'm stuck, and my hair is too short to grab and pull out, but if it was a little longer that's exactly what I would be doing, but I see this and the other one, and I just want to acknowledge that I see it and say thank you so much, so "Thank you SOOOOO MUCH @yorkie !!!!! God KNOWS I can't wait till they leave, but again, I see this, and want to acknowledge that I do see it and say "Thank you @yorkie", and I can't wait to get to this!!!(y)(y)(y)(y)(y)
 

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Hi @yorkie , I didn't get to the tip sensor last night. For one, everything closes so early now due to this COVID. I did take it out and look at it, I don't know what for, but I did.

A little while ago I came across a video called, "Checking And Testing Fuel Pump of Car/Motorcycle at Home without any special tools" (
), and the Fuel Pump Cycled Without ANY Problems. Note that I didn't have the key in the ignition when I was testing it 'Priming', but it was 'Priming' Fine.

Knowin this now, is there something you'd be quicker to test? Thank you very much!
 

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We are expecting no problems with the fuel pump itself because we suspect that the tilt/tip-over sensor has failed so you would not expect the fuel pump to work unless you are doing direct to fuel pump checks.
Now I'm sure I have read somewhere that you can put a resistor between the yellow/green and black/yellow wire to fool the ECU into thinking the tilt/tip-over sensor is working but I think that was on a zx6 and whether that would work the same on the 12 I don't know, and I can't remember what size resistor they used.
 

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Now I'm sure I have read somewhere that you can put a resistor between the yellow/green and black/yellow wire to fool the ECU into thinking the tilt/tip-over sensor is working but I think that was on a zx6 and whether that would work the same on the 12 I don't know, and I can't remember what size resistor they used.
@yorkie , Thank you very much and I'm going to look into this (well read and watch everything I can find pertaining to it) right now. Again, thank you very much @yorkie ! I know you said you don't come here often anymore, but I appreciate you coming back more than you can imagine with the position I am in. Again, thank you!!
 

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Now I'm sure I have read somewhere that you can put a resistor between the yellow/green and black/yellow wire to fool the ECU into thinking the tilt/tip-over sensor is working but I think that was on a zx6 and whether that would work the same on the 12 I don't know, and I can't remember what size resistor they used.
Hi @yorkie , I found this video of someone bypassing the tip over sensor on an '08 ZX10 (
)
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, and I edited this because he was using 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors (not the 150 like previously stated by me).

Do you or anyone else know of any household items that may have 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in them, and if so, would it be legible that it/they were actually 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistors?

Also, is it common for the tip over sensor to go out on these when the bike hasn't been dropped, nor tilted down to the 60 degrees that I read about that would actually flip it, or whatever you'd call it? Like I'd said initially, my battery was dead after a one-way non-stop 13 mile ride (the day before I'd put a new battery in it which led me to believe it was the Voltage Regulator Rectifier which I've since received and connected, and my belief of that was because I'd just put a new battery in January), so waited 45 minutes to an hour and a half (it started right up, and then I drove back home the one-way, non-stop 13 mile trip, and upon pulling into my driveway I'd noticed the whole gauge cluster was completely out. Blank as if turned off.

And @yorkie , I know you'd already read the paragraph above, but I just added that just in case someone only had a couple minutes of time on their hands and didn't want to read the whole thing starting from the beginning.)

Again, thank you @yorkie !!
 

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@yorkie and anyone else who is knowledgeable in this and willing to try to help me.

I also found a video on YouTube, titled,
"Kawasaki Ninja650 Tip over sensor diagnosis and bypassing"
, which is kinda interesting in itself, but I'm kinda lost, because I really can't understand exactly what it is that he is saying. Again, please ANY HELP, FROM ANYBODY would be appreciated beyond belief! Thank you!

18553
 

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@MACE , @ninjanut @yorkie , @Zaphod B (names are in alphabetical order).

If there were any of my posts that I'd like to have answered the absolute most, it would be this one, so please, I know I've been posting like crazy about this, but is there a knowledgeable individual, knowledgeable in what I'm about to ask, that would PLEASE answer this for me?

[1] - Is there a way to tie in to the Tip-Over/Tilt/Bank Angle Sensor to make it active and functioning (if it's even the problem), or better yet, or [2] is there a way to just get rid of it altogether as if it didn't even exist by tying any wires together......or just doing anything?

Thank you so much in advance!
 

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Earlier, in this thread, we discussed ; "safety lockout". Kawasaki has multiple systems on each model to prevent spark and fuel in the event of a malfunction.
There is also an anti theft deterrent inside the ignition switch to prevent "hotwiring" @yorkie Is convinced your issue is the tip over switch. This may be the case, as i mentioned that as well on page 1. However, in my experience and also reading up on the zx12r, it could also be the ignition switch. These ignition switches are notorious for going out after many years and giving owners fits trying to repair their motos. I recently just modified my own switch to work after the previous owner had no luck after several years attempting to get spark.
In multiple threads, zx12r owners have replaced the switch and solved the problem as well, as shown in the link provided earlier, and also this link.
DO NOT BUY A CHINESE EBAY SWITCH THEY DO NOT WORK
The zx12r luckily also has a code retrieval system that can help owners narrow down the source of the malfunction.
You will have to google codes zx12r to learn how to activate this system, its simple and usually can be done with a paperclip.
If no code is thrown for the tip sensor, you may be able to eliminate it from your diagnosis and begin to shut down all exits on the highway until your hear the pump prime.
Let me know how the code prompt goes and we will move on to testing the ignition switch as previously advised.
Best,
M
 

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First off, the ZX-12R uses battery voltage through the ECU fuse to supply the sensor.
I'm sorry to say I don't know how to bypass it because I don't know how the ECU works when it sees the voltage, as it could actually be looking at the resistance through the sensor.

I have bought 2 spare sensors now, and on my bench set up (spare battery and test lead) they both kick out 0.7 volts, unfortunately even when the sensor is upsidedown, so I can only assume the ECU has more to do with it.

The 2 spare sensors I have may both be bust in the working position, and at the moment I don't fancy stripping my bike down to test both sensors on the bike, but, maybe tomorrow.
If I do, and they both work it only proves the ECU has more to do with it, so I may be reluctant to stick resistors in there to see if I can bypass the sensor as I don't want to damage my ECU.
 

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More testing work is done.
But first, I've just remembered that your USA bike will have 2 white wires in the ignition switch plug but only one might or should give the 100Ohm resistance to the gray wire, the other white wire is just for the taillights.

Stripped the bike down again, but didn't get time to rebuild it, spent a lot of time cleaning and soldering the headlight plug wires near the fuse as it was showing signs of overheating and discoloring the wire, and also cleaning the K&N filters with the proper stuff.
Anyway, I'm pleased to say I do have 3 working tilt sensors, so it would seem the ECU does have more to do with it. and I also patched in a couple of resistors 200k 6.5 volts between black/yellow and yellow/green no fuel pump prim, 20k 5.6 volts fuel pump primed, 100 Ohms 11.5 volts but the pump also primed. I didn't try starting the bike but rechecked my tilt switch and it seems ok, I was worrying a bit.
Those were the only resistors I had laying around so make of it what you will, and as to why even the 20k resistor giving a reading of 5.6 volts still let the pump prime.
 

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@MACE and @yorkie , "Thank You Both VERY Much for the Responses From You Two! I'm Sure You're Aware That I'm Appreciative, But I'm MORE Appreciative than You Two Could EVER Imagine!''

I very much apologize for not replying/acknowledging sooner (as well as updating, and when this does get resolved I'll surely be back to let all know what the problem was, as for one I can't stand reading a post, then I guess the person figures out what the problem was, yet doesn't come back to mention it which could obviously be a big help to others down the road if they're having the same problem which to me says that person only thinks of themself), but my phone has been out of service because I wasn't able to pay the bill till last night. I've been having to walk 2.5 miles to a bus stop everyday (well, M-F) to catch the bus to make it to a job site so I could do Day Labor (at minimum wage) as for one school starts Monday, and the uniforms my children wear can only be bought from their school, as their school logos are embroidered on everything, and when I was making money before this COVID-19 kicked in and messed the world up, thankfully I was smart enough to pay 3 their tuitions for 3 years in advance for each cause every year they raise them.... just wish I would've thought the same on the uniforms, and them growing up to a bigger shoe size every 42 hours. Two, now that I have enough for all their uniforms, shoes, school supplies, etc., I was able to turn my phone back on.

As far as the updating goes, I bought a new (well, new to me) 2000 ZX-12R Tip-Over Sensor as well as a new (actually new) Voltage Regulator Rectifier because I figure a new battery is being drained when running for a reason. With that said, it's still turning over fine, but still just not Priming.

So, even though I don't know how to use a multimeter, I have no doubt I can find plenty of videos to show me how to properly use one.

Besides the Ignition Switch, IF that's not it, I'll want to check Relays as well, correct?

Is there any ones in particular that I should check first, then work my way down the line?

Should all Relays be measured in Ohms, and if yes, should they all output the same Ohm amounts?

And I found a link to my bike's Service Parts Diagram (2000 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R), in the case that someone could more easily pinpoint what Relays and anything else for that matter that I should check (and if I didn't say it in an earlier post, I did check all the fuses on top of the gas tank, as well as the ones in the battery tray.)

2000 Kawasaki Parts Diagrams - https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagrams/2000/ZX1200-A1

And could anyone tell me what the best one, of those listed below, would be for me to get would be, to where if I need to test beyond Ohms on my bike in the future, that I wanna keep forever, I'd be able to with ease and without having to be a rocket scientist? I really can't afford to spend more than $50, and sure hope I don't even need to spend that, but I do want a good one.

Home Depot:
$20 - $30 - $10 - $20 - Pick Up Today - $40 - $50 - $30 - $40 - Electrical - The Home Depot

Lowe's:
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=Multimeter&inStock=1&rollUpVariants=0&sortMethod=sortBy_priceLowToHigh

Ace Hardware: Search Results for Multimeter - Ace Hardware

Harbor Freight:
Search Results For "Multimeter"

---->> Interesting Item (at least to me) - 30AMP Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester - 30 Amp Automotive Fuse Circuit Tester

Again, ANY HELP pointing me in the right direction to fixing my bike would be so much appreciated. Life is beyond difficult right now, everything's an obstacle it seems, and really it seems like life has become unbearable, but because of my children it will never actually be unbearable because the Gifts God gave me: my children. @yorkie and @MACE , I've gotta tell you that I'm so VERY thankful for the help from you two that's you've already given (and God Bless You and Your Families for it!) because without you two I would've been completely in the dark even up to this point, and I Pray that you two are still willing to try to help me, but if not, I really do understand.

Thank you very much to anyone and everyone who took the time to read this in hopes that they could help me with my issue here.
 

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I have a few different multimeters and I use the cheap one the most.
You Have 2 relays one either side of the front of the tank bolt down. The one on the left is the fuel pump relay and the one on the right is the ECU relay. the ECU relay feeds the fuel pump relay. Unfortunately, the relays on your bike are different from the ones on my bike, so the resistance through the ones on mine are probably different from the ones on yours. But I might expect to see between 500 and 1000 Ohms at a guess.
What you could do is rest your finger on them while turning the ignition switch on and you may well be able to feel them working or not working. Both these relays are the same so you could swap them around and try again.
 

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Hi @yorkie, and as ALWAYS, thank you so much for replying- especially due to the fact that you'd previously in the beginning said you don't come here that often anymore. I really thank you beyond words!

And with that said, that is GREAT to know that I could swap them around, but if one is in fact bad, wouldn't it still cause the same result: No Priming?

And here's two testers that I bought earlier, and not just because they were cheap/inexpensive, but the manager at Harbor Freight was so nice and helpful.
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He said I could ground the test light, and see if it goes out somewhere because that's where the problem would be.

And in regards to testing Relays, am I, or should I be testing the Relays themselves, or the male ends where the Relays connect to like the guy at Harbor Freight said. But if I'm testing the male end, where the Relays connect, how am I going to be able to tell if the Relay(s) is/are bad?

I'd also bought this stuff called 'QD Electronic Cleaner', that says, "Safe for Sensitive Electronics", "Quick Drying", "Plastic Safe", and "Helps Prevent Contact Failure."
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My goal with this was that if there was anything damp in a Relay, or something I don't know the name of, it'd dry it out, but cleaning it to eliminate contact failure is a SUPER PLUS in my book.

Also, please, if you can think of Anything else I could or should test, please do let me know.

Again, thank you so much @yorkie !
 

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The multimeter is a little like my yellow one and should be fine. The prob tester may well be handy, though I don't have one, I use the multimeter, that way I can check for voltage drops.
Like I said rest a finger on the relays and turn the ignition switch on and off and feel for the relays working. If they don't work swap the relays over and try again, if they still don't work check the voltage on the Brown wire going into the ECU relay with the ignition switched on.
 

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Hi @yorkie and @MACE (and everybody else as well, but nobody else chimes in)!

There' been nothing to report, that's why I haven't been back to say what the issue was.

But, I do have it's at a mechanic shop though, and it's actually not getting spark, so it's not just the Fuel Pump Not Priming like I initially thought. He says Kawasaki has been closed for a while due to COVID, and he believes it's the 'Crank Position Sensor'.

----->> He says there's other names besides just 'Crank Position Sensor', DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT SOME OF THOSE NAMES ARE CALLED?

Anyone who may know, please do respond. Life is so messed up right now because that's my only transportation due to having to sell my Infiniti due to the fact the company I worked for went out of business, and I'm in such a terrible position without the 'Crank Position Sensor'.

Please help if possible.

Thank you, from Clearwater, FL!
 

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If the ECU is not switched ON then you would not get a spark anyway. So you need to make sure the ECU is switching on.
Normally when you get no spark but the engine turns over its the CAM POSITION SENSOR which you can see through the open part of the side fairing by number 1 exhaust header.
The crank position pick up sensor is on the other side behind the fairing on the end of the crank.
 

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If the ECU is not switched ON then you would not get a spark anyway. So you need to make sure the ECU is switching on.
Normally when you get no spark but the engine turns over its the CAM POSITION SENSOR which you can see through the open part of the side fairing by number 1 exhaust header.
The crank position pick up sensor is on the other side behind the fairing on the end of the crank.
Thank you for the reply @yorkie! This here, 2000 Kawasaki NINJA ZX12 ZX-12R ZX-12 OEM Ignition timing pick up sensor magnet, which can be seen at the link below is what I ended up ordering, and oddly enough it's the only one I could find for mine, a 2000. I sure hope this is the problem, cause I'd just rode it back home, and that was that. Here's the link: 2000 Kawasaki NINJA ZX12 ZX-12R ZX-12 OEM Ignition timing pick up sensor magnet | eBay

Anyways, just wanted to say a quick thank you, so "Thank you" and I Pray tomorrow is good news for me!

Thank you, from Clearwater, FL!
 
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