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Hi guys, i have just purchased a zx12 a1, the bike came to me as a non runner, firstly we changed the battery, then we found out the alarm was not working, so we removed, and rejoined all the wires, but still when the key is turned the fuel pump will not go through its cycle, we did the diagnostic check, and came up with fault code 45, (fuel pump relay open) so we removed the relay, and by passed it, the fuel pump then started priming, so we thought fuel pump relay was to blame, we ordered another one, and fitted today, but the pump will still not cycle, but will do when the brown and yellow wire is earthed, but it will then not stop cycling, any help would be very much appreciated. Regards Ben
 

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Hi everyone, I wasn't sure whether I should start a new post or not being how there's so many relating to this issue, but this one sounds closest to my issue than every single post I've read, from the start to finish of this post that @Rockerfellar created. I mean from start to finish his sounds the same. I just PM'd @Rundog in hopes that he could let me know what he told the one who created this post, but for he hasn't been around for years (under the name of his), and for all I know he has a new email, and if that's the case he won't get my PM. ANY HELP WOULD BE SO MUCH APPRECIATED, especially since this is my only form of transportation for myself, had to sell my car, move back in with my mom now that the company I was working for hung it up a couple months ago due to this COVID-19, and really, life has been completely turned upside down at my age having to move back in with my mom and use her car to take my kids anywhere, or having to Uber when I can't use her car, which really hurts because I'm pretty much what you'd call broke now and don't have the money to just take it to a shop since now no job!! I could go on about how this is hurting my whole family which is small (mom, my 3 children, and myself).

Again, ANY HELP to SOLVE this would be beyond appreciated!! Years ago I had a 2003, but this one is a 2000 ZX-12R the A1. Even if you don't have the answer, thank you for at least taking the time to read this in hopes that you did.
 

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The fuel pump is not priming is usually due to a safety lockout issue.
There are many safety lockouts on a Kawasaki. Some of them include the sidestand switch, clutch safety switch,tip over switch, neutral switch, and the security system operating in your keyswitch.
I usually start by bypassing the first 2 lockouts, and then reset my tip over switch.
If the pump still wont prime, I move to ignition. I am assuming you received the moto as a "non runner" as the OP DID.
If so, There is a chance we can help you get it running and your life can improve some.
Just let us know. Begin by googling bypass safety lockout Kawasaki and bypass the sidestand, clutch safety switch and also check for spark by grounding a plug to the head while cranking over the bike.
I am assuming you also have a no spark issue which often coincides with a priming issue
Best,
M
 

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@MACE , thank you so much for the reply! To be a little more specific as to what exactly happened and how, I'm going to post it below because maybe something in what I say could possibly direct you (for me) to what the cause could be....

I bought the bike at the end of December, and it was running fine. In January my battery went dead, so I put a new battery in it and all was fine at that point for a while, up til last week, when my battery went dead again. I got it jump started and was able to make it home. which was only about 2 miles away. I went and got a new battery the next day, and it started up fine, and I ran around locally (between 1-3 miles) without any problems. Well, the next day I rode it 13 miles one way without stopping, turned it off for 5 minutes, then came out and again, the battery was dead. So I waited about 45 minutes and it started up no problem and I rode it back home, the 13 miles one-way without stopping. Upon pulling into my driveway I noticed that the gauge cluster was out. 100%. I didn't try to ride it again that day, and for the heck of it, charged the battery on 2 amps. Well the next day I try to start my bike and it won't start, and I then noticed that it was not making the fuel pump priming/cycling noise that it always made. I've checked all the fuses, which are all fine. For the life of me I can't figure out what could've happened to where the Fuel Pump will now not cycle. I have checked all the fuses like I said, it's not the run/kill switch (well, it's on, that's all I know), kickstand up/down, in gear, out of gear (Neutral) all checked, and I am just at a loss as to what this could be. Some may say check the amps/volts in relays, but I don't know how to do that. I do have an AC Voltage Detector (MS8907H), but I don't know how it can help. I've looked all over for a fuse that I could've missed, but I can't find one (the 2 different ones in the battery tray are fine). Everything seems to be hooked up fine, but somewhere between it starting back up after the first 13 mile one-way ride, and the ride back which was one-way and 13 miles, with the cluster being dead as I was pulling into the driveway, something had to've happened between here and there and for the life of me I can not figure out what it could be. I was assuming it could've been the voltage regulator rectifier, although I didn't think that could have anything to do with the Fuel Pump- just the battery itself staying alive, and it came in the mail today, I connected it, and as I assumed it had nothing to do with the Fuel Pump......at least it didn't get the Fuel Pump Priming, I know that...... and didn't think it would anyways. I hope this little more in depth detail will help pinpoint something, and if not @MACE , I do thank you VERY much for the info you've already provided!!
 

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First of all, the symptoms you describe are are exactly those of a failed charging system. The rectifier and/or stator or both are likely faulty.
The gauge going blank and the ride times before battery failure point to this. The fuel pump not priming is a separate problem. I am not an expert on the zx12, however, I just read there are two seperate fuse box locations, one under near battery box and one "on top of the frame under tank cover, this is your "junction box"(google fuse box locations zx12.) If every fuse has been verified, its time to bench test your fuel pump by running a 12 volt source directly to the pump.
In this way you can eliminate pump failure and move on to more advanced electrical troubleshooting. (Google bench test fuel pump Kawasaki) If we can get the bike running we should immediately check the battery voltage at terminals while running. (google test charging system Kawasaki).
Cliffs: check all fuses (both locations)
Bench test fuel pump
 

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@MACE , first off, even if the bike got stolen tonight, I sincerely thank you for your time,ESPECIALLY HOW YOU JUST SAID YOU'RE NO EXPERT ON THE ZX-12R, BUT, BUT YOU STILL WENT OUT OF YOUR WAY TO TAKE THE TIME TO ACTUALLY GOING ONLINE AND LOOK FOR A SPLITPOSSIBLE ANSWER (Hence, finding out the locations of those fuses).
---> First and foremost, I just wanted to say, "Thank You for Your Time and Effort.'' In my book that says a helluva lot about a person, namely not one just thinking about themselves. Anyways, regardless of the outcome, "Thank You, and I see you're in Ft. Lauderdale. This thing is going to get fixed, somehow, and one day hopefully I'll take a trip, down there to say "Thank You" in person, and, maybe we could do a little riding. I've never been there and I'm pretty much right down the street, over here in Clearwater. I know you've heard of Clearwater Beach.... hell, hasn't everyone? Anyways, thank you for the time you've spent.


Ok, the Stator is new, within a couple weeks, and I had Greg's Custom Cycles in Clearwater do it (wow, some of those bikes he has are phenomenal, $75k, $85K, $90K, just not my type of bikes, but man, you should see them they're amazing. For the heck of it type in Greg's Custom Cycles in Clearwater. Anyways, he put the New Stator about a month ago, and today I received the New Voltages Regulator Rectifier, but at this point, as we all know, neither matters without the Fuel Pump working.

I knew about the fuses and locations of them, and they're fine, just as are the two different amp ones in the battery try. They're all fine.

And when you say run 12-Volts directly to the Fuel Pump, how can I do that? With a battery charger? Can I leave the Fuel Pump on the bike while testing it without getting blown up?

Also, I've attached some pictures of up under the tank. There's 10 pictures I believe. If I can do this while still on the bike, where do I connect the Red and Black Cables?

Again, thank you beyond words!

Again, thank you VERY much @MACE
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No problem. Clearwater is nice man, I spend all my time on Indian Rocks Beach just staring at the seagulls and stuff.
Anyway, before we bench test the fuel pump, we need to check for spark. If you have no fuel in addition to no spark, we can get diagnose faster.
There are two ways to do this. One; pull the tank and then pull one spark plug wire from head, and place a spare plug in the wire and ground it to head to look for spark. (while cranking)
The other is simple, pull the tank and spray starting fluid (with upper cylinder lubricant) into the open butterflies and then crank over the bike to see if it will fire.(2 second blast into each bore)
If you have spark, the problem is likely a fuel delivery issue, if you do not have spark it is a lockout issue.
I am leaning towards ignition switch or possibly crank sensor/ at this point, however, diagnosing electrical issues is complex at the least.
Especially online.
I am assuming the bike will turn over although we have not discussed that.
If you get done diagnosing spark, you can jump the fuel pump relay to do a quick test of the pump.
I prefer to bench test fuel components, however I have been guilty of taking shortcuts in the effort to quickly repair a moto.
At any rate, when you finally hear the pump prime, you will likely have spark as well.
At that point you will have come to place where many of us have been,
VICTORY
 

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First, let me say I don't come on here very often.
This sounds like a faulty tilt/tip-over sensor if the ECU does not get the right voltage from the sensor 0.4 to 1.4 volts (Yellow/green wire to Black/yellow earth) it will switch off the ignition system, Injectors, and fuel pump, and should give you the fault code of 31. Fail voltage is 3.7 to 4.4 volts depending on your battery. You can find more information on this sensor in the service manual Chapter 2 page 93. I spent a couple of hours the other day testing the one on my B4 Not because I had a problem it was just for knowledge, and to see if my patch lead worked for testing them, and at some point do a write up with pictures. Also, the ignition switch has to be recycled each time the tilt switch fail signal to the ECU activates.
As for the battery problem, on the battery tray on the outside is a big fat positive cable this goes to the starter motor, now it is very easy to loosen the nut on the inside of the battery tray while tightening up the cable on the outside tray, if this happens you can trash a battery quickly because a loose connection won't pass enough amperage and so to compensate the starter will pull the voltage right down.
 

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No problem. Clearwater is nice man, I spend all my time on Indian Rocks Beach just staring at the seagulls and stuff.
Anyway, before we bench test the fuel pump, we need to check for spark. If you have no fuel in addition to no spark, we can get diagnose faster.
There are two ways to do this. One; pull the tank and then pull one spark plug wire from head, and place a spare plug in the wire and ground it to head to look for spark. (while cranking)
The other is simple, pull the tank and spray starting fluid (with upper cylinder lubricant) into the open butterflies and then crank over the bike to see if it will fire.(2 second blast into each bore)
If you have spark, the problem is likely a fuel delivery issue, if you do not have spark it is a lockout issue.
I am leaning towards ignition switch or possibly crank sensor/ at this point, however, diagnosing electrical issues is complex at the least.
Especially online.
I am assuming the bike will turn over although we have not discussed that.
If you get done diagnosing spark, you can jump the fuel pump relay to do a quick test of the pump.
I prefer to bench test fuel components, however I have been guilty of taking shortcuts in the effort to quickly repair a moto.
At any rate, when you finally hear the pump prime, you will likely have spark as well.
At that point you will have come to place where many of us have been,
VICTORY
Ya, Clearwater's alright, but some of these cops sure don't play by the rules. I'm not sure how far Channel 10 or 13 news goes, but there's this one cop who was chasing a certain motorcyclist in an undercover Camaro, lied to his Superiors and everyone else, saying he turned off the in-car video camera and quit the pursuit of this one particular motorcyclist (there was like a group of 10 who was most likely leaving Clearwater Beach as so many big groups come to Clearwater Beach on the weekends, and this group was going back towards home, on the Courtney Campbell Causeway - which goes directly to Tampa, which I'm sure you yourself know), and the motorcyclist unfortunately got killed after running into the back of a state Trooper who wasn't even involved, but the cop, Officer Nicholas Giordano got busted for lying cause the Audio was still recording it. He saw Keith get killed, and supposedly Keith was only doing 126mph! Policy is that you can't stay in a High-Speed Pursuit unless the individual just committed a Violent Felony, and all Keith was doing was riding his bike-that's it. To me, there's nothing better than riding my bike or being out on a boat, like a 21-29 foot Center Console, and maybe pulling up to Shephard's and docking it for a little while and going up in to Shephard's (I'm sure you know Shephard's since you know Indian Rocks Beach cause you can pretty much see Shephard's from IRB.) Anyways, after getting busted lying to his Superiors, nothing happens to him. Keith is dead, and Giordano is still a cop in the same position. He actually pulled me over on U.S. 19, I was doing 121mph in my Infiniti Q50T that I unfortunately had to sell since this COVID-19 came upon us that I don't actually believe in, and I ended up with an $1,100 Fine. To tell you the truth, I was gonna just hit it cause I could've hit 150mph in just a couple seconds and been in Largo, out of Clearwater's Jurisdiction, knowing that the average cop would've had to back off...........but Honest to God, I said to myself, "Man, what if that's Giordano", he won't stop, he won't care about jurisdiction, he'll definitely get me, and I'll end up with a 'Fleeing and Eluding' on top of my speeding ticket........and I couldn't believe it, well, ya I could really, it was Giordano who pulled me, so I Thank God that I did pull over cause man, he would've followed me down towards you in Ft. Lauderdale to get me if he had to.......and this time I'm sure he would've made sure the Audio was off!! Here's the article of him chasing them and lying about it. It's just unbelievable that he's still out there! Video shows chase that Clearwater police say didn't happen

Anyways, you said, "The other is simple, pull the tank and spray starting fluid (with upper cylinder lubricant) into the open butterflies and then crank over the bike to see if it will fire.(2 second blast into each bore)." In regards to the 'Starting Fluid' by your 'Upper Cylinder Lubricant' Statement, I actually tried that yesterday. I sprayed it into all 4 and still nothing. Same sound, just bike turning over, but nothing. It turns over fine, no issues with the starter, it won't start, so I'm assuming there is no spark, so maybe the ignition switch or crank sensor?? How would I check the 'Ignition Switch' and/or 'Crank Sensor'?

------->>
And since you mention 'Ignition Switch', and I've seen 'Ignition Switch' mentioned MANY TIMES as I've read, and read, and read; the ONLY thing I'd done different after putting the new battery in, is hooked up a phone holder, that I bought at the same time as the battery, but I didn't put it on right off the bat. I rode the bike home. Then I rode it to Publix, which was about a mile and a half away, then I rode it home. THEN I remembered that I bought the phone holder at the same time, put it on the bike as you can see in the pictures, and I hooked it up technically at the 'end(?)' of the kill switch as it wrapped around the 2, not wires, but cables I guess you would call it, as you can see in the picture (the last one, which this post will end up saying edited because my computer sucks, and my Gmail which I just sent the picture to is saying 'Not Connected', although it is- I just can't open the Gmail), the 2 cables there. I don't know which one goes to the ignition switch, and which one goes to the brake, but I do see a crack in one cable, and I don't know if you can see it in the picture, but by the looks of it, that crack has been there for a while. It looks as though it only has a crack in the rubber coating. Could this have anything to do with it, maybe have an effect on the 'Ignition Switch'? I only ask that because my bike seemed good again after I put the new battery in, and before I went on the 13 mile one-way ride is when I put it on - I THINK, and almost positive of........BUT, I'm NOT 100% positive that that was when I put it on, but I'd only rode it 3 times before this happened (home from the Publix Plaza that is technically 1.4 miles away, and I KNOW that I didn't put it on during the first of the 3 rides)....and as I said, I took just 2 rides before the 13 mile one-way ride, and that was 1.4 miles there, and 1.4 miles back, and the next morning is when I went on the 13 mile one-way ride (which only ate up the power of the battery for a little bit).....soon after waiting a while I was able to ride it home, and upon pulling into the driveway is when I noticed the whole digital cluster was out.

And when you say 'Ignition Switch', is this the 'Ignition Switch' you're referring to, or is there a different one, like a relay (I hope not a relay cause have NO CLUE how to test one) or something else somewhere hiding?

And the
'Crank Sensor', what is that and where is it located? After I reply and thank @yorkie for his input and replying in general I'm going to search for where the 'Crank Sensor' is located, but lets say it is the
Crank Sensor', how would I test it?

Thanks a LOT @MACE ,
and after the pictures of the places on my bike, by what I think is the 'Ignition Switch', is a couple of pictures of the aftermath, well somewhat of it, of after the chase that Clearwater Cop Nicholas Giordano says didn't happen, which did happen, and the parents of Keith have a BIG Time Attorney on their side (you being local probably saw, he was the one that represented that dude who was pushed to the ground by some black dude, the black dude backed away after the push, and this dude on the ground just pulls out a gun and shoots him, dead.)

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Well one thing is for certain. Your life is an adventure and thats what makes it worth living, The next thing is that immediately complying to your Superior Officer is the only way to make it through said life.
Now, the cables shown are your throttle cables and have nothing to do with your issue. However, the no spark and no fuel issue is now viewed as likely a lockout issue. The fuel pump and spark are both cut when the ECU is not getting the correct voltage or "signal". This is why I am leaning towards your ignition switch. Your ignition switch is in the center of your triple clamp,it is where your key goes,its how you turn "on" your bike. @yorkie is also correct in his theory in that it may be the tip over switch as both components will stop fuel pump from priming if either or both are malfunctioning.
As previously stated; all of your safety lockout systems must be inspected and or bypassed to trick the ECU to fire.
The crank sensor was just something I read here while researching, I havent looked further into whether your model even has one, just going off an interesting thread.
Lockouts include; Ignition switch, tip over switch, clutch safety switch; and it looks like your kill switch is a little buggered and might be suspect as well.
The good news is; it is something simple and probably wont cost much. Also, by the time you get done you will have gained valuable experience to use later.
I would first sit on the bike, put the bike in neutral and pull the sidestand up. Then try to turn key off and on while pulling in and wiggling the clutch lever. If it wont prime, bypass the clutch switch. (google)
Then I would continue by using your Voltmeter to test the ignition. (google)
When you are done in that rabbit hole, get back to us and we will go from there.
Best,
M
 

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First, let me say I don't come on here very often.
This sounds like a faulty tilt/tip-over sensor if the ECU does not get the right voltage from the sensor 0.4 to 1.4 volts (Yellow/green wire to Black/yellow earth) it will switch off the ignition system, Injectors, and fuel pump, and should give you the fault code of 31. Fail voltage is 3.7 to 4.4 volts depending on your battery. You can find more information on this sensor in the service manual Chapter 2 page 93. I spent a couple of hours the other day testing the one on my B4 Not because I had a problem it was just for knowledge, and to see if my patch lead worked for testing them, and at some point do a write up with pictures. Also, the ignition switch has to be recycled each time the tilt switch fail signal to the ECU activates.
As for the battery problem, on the battery tray on the outside is a big fat positive cable this goes to the starter motor, now it is very easy to loosen the nut on the inside of the battery tray while tightening up the cable on the outside tray, if this happens you can trash a battery quickly because a loose connection won't pass enough amperage and so to compensate the starter will pull the voltage right down.

Well @yorkie , I sincerely THANK YOU for coming here now as I need help more than ever right now as my life has changed so much , for the worst, and ANY help I can get is with the utmost appreciation, that's without a doubt!

I sure wish I knew anything about Fault Codes, but I don't. Not at all.

This particular bike doesn't have injectors, it's carbureted. It's the 2000 ZX-12R/A-1. Now my old bike, which I miss so much, which was such a beautiful bike, a Kawasaki Green 2003 was Fuel Injected, but.......this one isn't.

This 2000 isn't worthy of a picture yet, and is supposed to be faster than this 2003 (due to the retarded, I mean dumb as can be, 'Gentleman's Agreement' which came into effect in 2001 that limits bikes to 186mph. For years now I've been wondering if someone hits something going 186mph. versus 204mph, did they who came up with this 'Gentleman's Agreement' save that person's life by lowering the speed by 18 miles per hour? God Forbid this happened to someone, but if this did in fact happen, and the individual in question lived, I'd sincerely like to shake everyone's hand who came up with that bright idea...........but for some reason, now I don't know why.........maybe it has something to do with the United States Politicians receiving $170,000 a year for taking a whole lot of vacations.....I mean for coming up with fantastic laws and still working on new ones.....one day there's probably gonna be a law that if your shoelaces are untied you go to jail cause if they can't think of anymore laws, their jobs are over.............so hell, might as well go to Tahiti for a while and think of something,,,,,,,,at least that's what I'm thinking.

So, @yorkie , in regards to your statement of, "This sounds like a faulty tilt/tip-over sensor if the ECU does not get the right voltage from the sensor 0.4 to 1.4 volts (Yellow/green wire to Black/yellow earth)", could you tell me where I could find the faulty tilt/tip-over sensor? Better yet, would you please take a picture of the location of it so I can actually see what I'm looking for, versus guessing? And I have read and read and read; and while reading, I read that you can reset the Tip Over Sensor. Is that true? I've seen it mentioned several times.

And I'm an old idiot I guess ass I've seen the word earth mentioned several times while reading and reading, and I'm assuming that means 'ground', is that right?

And I really have no idea what this means either, unfortunately, "...voltage from the sensor 0.4 to 1.4 volts (Yellow/green wire to Black/yellow earth) it will switch off the ignition system."

And if I'm able to find this sensor, could I take it right down the street to AutoZone and have them test it for me? It's very close to me that's why I ask that of them.

We have a Motorcycle Dealer called Cycle Springs here (and if you look up 'Kawasaki Dealer Near Me', they come up, but months ago I asked them something about my bike and they said, "I don't know. We don't work on them, they're too old." I'm double the age of this bike, and this dude was a pretty big dude about a time and a half the age of my bike, and I felt like showing him the power of "too old" with my right fist to his mouth. (Oops. did I just say that out loud??!!🤫



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Well one thing is for certain. Your life is an adventure and thats what makes it worth living, The next thing is that immediately complying to your Superior Officer is the only way to make it through life.
Now, the cables shown are your throttle cables and have nothing to do with your issue. However, the no spark and no fuel issue is now viewed as likely a lockout issue. The fuel pump and spark are both cut when the ECU is not getting the correct voltage or "signal". This is why I am leaning towards your ignition switch. Your ignition switch is in the center of your triple clamp,it is where your key goes,its how you turn "on" your bike. @yorkie is also correct in his theory in that it may be the tip over switch as both components will stop fuel pump from priming if either or both are malfunctioning.
As previously stated; all of your safety lockout systems must be inspected and or bypassed to trick the ECU to fire.
The crank sensor was just something I read here while researching, I havent looked further into whether your model even has one, just going off an interesting thread.
These include; Ignition switch, tip over switch, clutch safety switch; and it looks like your kill switch is a little buggered and might be suspect as well.
The good news is; it is something simple and probably wont cost much. Also, by the time you get done you will have gained valuable experience to use later.
I would first put the bike in neutral and pull the sidestand up. Then try to turn key off and on while pulling in and wiggling the clutch lever. If it wont prime, bypass the clutch switch. (google)
Then I would continue by using your Voltmeter to test the ignition. (google)
When you are done in that rabbit hole, get back to us and we will go from there.
Best,
M

First off, good morning @MACE , and I can say that cause I could probably throw a baseball over to Ft. Lauderdale!

Ha, my life an adventure? I don't think so............actually, no, I wish it was, but it' not.

I'm not the cop. The cop is the one who lied to his superior Officers, and of course here in Clearwater, FL, USA - Scientology Capital of the World, that LITERALLY pays CPD Officers for Security (which is no secret around here) which is getting bigger and bigger, I'm jobless now (I wish I could use the word career, but unfortunately I can') Noooo, actually very far from that. Giordano, the Clearwater Police Officer just got me doing the 121mph in the 55mph zone, and I just stopped cause I thought that even though CPD has about 300 Officers in all, that it could possibly be him..........and sure enough it was!

The Judge asked me, "So, is that true you were going 111mph, which is exactly 1mph more than double? I felt like saying, "No, that's not true. I was going 121mph.....which I'm gonna take a wild guess that that equals 11 mph more than double?"

Good to know that those are throttle cables. Thank you for that cause I was wondering where I was gonna put my phone..........I like to ride with music........I put the Ultimate Ears Boom 3 in my jacket, and I Boom 2!
In regards to, "These include; Ignition switch, tip over switch, clutch safety switch; and it looks like your kill switch is a little buggered and might be suspect as well." Well, out of all you said there I only know where the kill switch is, and really, it looking buggered is due to some spray paint getting on it - if that' what you're referring to, the look of it.

How do I get the safety lockout systems inspected and or bypassed........hell, how do I find out where they all are? I thought I've read everything, but I guess not cause I didn't see what all was in that URL you sent me. Thank you for that, as well as everything else!

And where you say, I would first put the bike in neutral and pull the sidestand up. Then try to turn key off and on while pulling in and wiggling the clutch lever. - I've done this and it just turns over...........I'm starting to think the bike is pissed off at me for something!

@MACE , when you say things like, "If it wont prime, bypass the clutch switch. (google)", do you mean, go to Google to try to figure out how to bypass the clutch switch?"

Please let me know so I can have a better understanding. Ya know, when I went to AutoZone to get Starter Fluid, I asked the lady there, and she said all relays can have different voltages. Is that right? I thought you could just put the meter close to it, and if it lights up, that means it works. So.........do I have some wrong thinking in that aspect? If so, and they can all have different voltages, each relay, how do I know how much voltage should they be. Actually, I think that's a dumb question cause there's a lot of relays.

And the time of your reply, with me being in the same time zone, leads me to believe getting ready or on your way to work, so I won't type much more to you cause I'm assuming you're off to work, or almost. Have a good day and thank you VERY much........I mean, you don't even have a ZX-12 and for you to be helping me out like this......man, that's truly great karma. Thank you buddy, and I hope you have a great day!!
 

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All zx-12r's are fuel injected.
Earth is normally Black/yellow and like you say battery negative.

The tip-over sensor is in the Battery tray and so can only be removed when the battery tray is removed. Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of this.
Once the battery tray is removed at the far end you will see a plastic cover that is held in place by one Philips screw, remove the screw and take off the plastic cover.
The uppermost item is the starter solenoid and can stay in place, lower down you will see a small relay (indicator) hooked onto the battery tray mounting, you will need to prise this up and get it out of the way, then behind it, you will see the tilt/tip-over sensor mounted with two screws, remove the two screws, extract the tilt/tip-over sensor and unplug it. Put a bit of string on the loom plug, (not the sensor plug) feed this piece of string through the hole in the frame at the far end of the battery compartment opening. Slide the battery tray back into the bike using the string to make sure you can pull the sensor plug out of the hole. You will have to leave off the plastic cover.
Before sliding the battery tray back in check the starter solenoid terminals are secure (under the little rubber cover) and that the plug attached to it with the green 30amp fuse is not melted or damaged. Also, ensure the positive cable that comes from the starter solenoid along the inside bottom of the battery tray is bolted up and secure to the exit point of the battery tray.
Once the battery tray is refitted and the sensor loom plug is hanging outside the frame of the bike you can plug back in the tilt/tip-over sensor. Somehow you will need to get your voltage meter probes into the back of the plugs with the positive (red) lead onto the Yellow/green wire and the negative (black) lead onto the Black/yellow wire. Now with the tilt/tip-over sensor the right way up and level, (that's the dome down) Switch the ignition switch to ON and look at the DC voltage reading on the meter.
Mine read 0.7 volts and stayed at that till it tripped and suddenly went up to 4.5 volts Fail, yours may be different as we suspect yours is bust.
I built a test lead to help me take voltage measurement easily.
I will add that the engine will turn over even if the sensor has been tripped.

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Good morning @ninjanut , I'll tell you a secret, but please don't tell anyone. I put ad out, "GREAT Bike Mechanic, Looking for Work!" Well, a Suzuki Dealership called me and hired me right over the phone. The guy was in a big hurry, so I didn't get a chance to tell him I can fix ANY Caloi, Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, etc., don't tell him please.......and with that being said, I'm no expert on the 12 either if you wanna count out blowing by a cop at 190 who's doing 50, turns his lights on, speeds up for about 7 seconds and quits........ while I hit the next Exit since I know he's saying".......VERY HIGH rate of speed going South Bound'' - and by time he's done talking I'm actually now going North, Lol.

No, seriously though, this is carbureted. Ya know though, looking at this thing though, it does look half and half- which I don't even know if that is even remotely possible, but I do believe it's carbureted. Also, someone was trying to get me to buy their 2002 ZX-12R, and they were trying to tell me all of the cons - including the fact that the 2000 is carbureted.

You do know that this is the ONLY Unrestricted ZX-12R, right? I don't HONESTLY know buddy, but I've ALWAYS been under the impression that the 2000 was carbureted. But look.......the first picture I post will be from the right side of the engine, and the next the left, but the left, doesn't that look like fuel injectors or what? Sure does to me!! I just wish I wasn't blind! But doesn't it?
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