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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could a few of you fellows give me a breif tutorial on 39mm FCRs please. 1st, with average mods, full exhaust, ign adv, block off plates, are they a workable addition? I've read of the side by side spacing needed. What is the spacing for my motor, 98 model year? What intake system mods are needed to run these? I appreciate your help.
 

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You won't see much with exhaust, advance... Block off plates are only to clean things up, not a performance modification.

With the FCRs you will require smoother throttle input on your end but you will find its much more aggressive at top end (6000+)


My build is as follows:
Kent Race Day cams
APE gears (105in105ex)
Air tray
Intake tubes
FCR 41 with race floats, blue stacks, keihin emulsion tubes
Modded Muzzy SS header
Akrapovic mid and CF oval
AEM A/F gauge (datalogue)
Vance and Hines Race ignition (programmable version)
Brisk Ti Race plugs
Nology Hotwires


Only after I started bolting more and more on did I feel the power gains... Next is head work and a big bore to keep it true ZX7R... But in reality, where do you want to stop and how deep is your wallet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Real good guys! Thanks! I just bought this track day bike and I want to work the motor starting this fall. Budget is whatever gives me a warm fuzzy feeling, though I'm def not made of money. I work hard for what little I have. I need to fully understand what my options are and have them make sense to me before I do them. That's why I ask. I'm on my tug right now and the HD died in my comp so that's the reason for asking questions (only iPhone currently; hard to search/read). To tell you the truth I haven't ridden the bike yet. It's wired, race Tec kitted forks, Penske rear shock, full muzzy system, steering damper... I've been looking for a budget set of upgraded rotors and I've been looking at brembo caliper and master cylinder conversions (used parts). I'm just havin fun w it right now and trying to improve on a few things, I really don't know what to expect for power coming from my last two rc51s.. Like I said I really appreciate your help.. Thanks!
 

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another opinion:

I blew about 500 bucks at SUDCO on needles, jets, gaskets, etc trying to get my factory FCR's set up correctly. I was never able to get it to run right.

I really wanted to ride the bike, so I rebuilt stock CV's from an L1 parts bike I have.

I enjoyed my first track day on the '93 M1 yesterday. Bike ran great. no issues. I'm sure it could be "better" with the FCR's. But it was perfectly fine with stock CV carbs and is still more bike than I am rider.

bike is stock, with the exception of a Muzzy Ti full system and emissions removed. Stock front forks and an Ohlins rear shock.

If time and money are in short supply, I'd suggest FCR's last.

Your money is probably better spent upgrading the front forks to modern internals and buying a good rear shock.
 

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To be honest i would stick with the CVKs on the bike... work on suspension, braking, and lightening the bike...

performance mods are 10X the money and will get you no where unless you dump TONS of money into it... believe me... thats where I am right now... But Im building a Replica Bike so the parts are nice to have...


If you can go a cable clutch swap that will work better for you than hydro.


If i were to do it again I would take the money i put into engine mods and bought Marchesini Rims and full brake upgrade... although i have a full brake upgrade now... the rims would be nice to have
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
@ danoh1, thanks. I should prob ride the bike b4 passing judgement, your right. I do already have race Tec internals in the fork and a penske rear. The way I've always heard upgrades is, breaks, and suspension first then on to greener pastures...

I've been on the hunt for used brembo bits for the front w a new master cylinder. I found the adaptors for the calipers and obviously all kinds of used calipers on eBay so I'm on top of that.. The bike is set up for the track though, rear sets, sharkskins, clipons, smog removed, full muzzy system, a fresh set of pilot mediums, etc... It's pretty much ready to go. There were some affordable sets of 16.5s on nesba but the op hasn't shown back up.. As far as a cable clutch goes, I got carpel tunnel pretty bad when I was younger and now I get arm pump pretty easy in my clutch hand. I'd go cable if there were some advantage levers out there. I think I saw some at one point but for now the hydro is easier. Id def take suggestions in this area..
Zxgreen7r, my bike is a WSBK tribute bike. Can you link me your current pics, I'd love to see it!

P.S, was I correct on the FCR spacing?
 

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I dont know the spacing... my carbs were right off an RR and have kit float bowls on them.


as for cable clutch I found one a year back, cost me $300... but its a nice little piece of ally...

Its the ATTACK Kit...






My bike is stripped right down to the frame right now... it will be a few more months... Im not taking any chances that It will ever have something I dont like about it...
 

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The advantage of the cable clutch is its super light on the finger... I can single finger pull it all day long!!
 

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The attack kit isn't but a german company called durbhan that makes mechanical clutch conversions. They make them for all sorts of bikes but they are all essentially the same unit with different adaptor plates to fit different bikes. Not sure where to get a plate to fit the 7. You might need to get one made up custom.
 

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The attack kit isn't but a german company called durbhan that makes mechanical clutch conversions. They make them for all sorts of bikes but they are all essentially the same unit with different adaptor plates to fit different bikes. Not sure where to get a plate to fit the 7. You might need to get one made up custom.


WRONG!!!



http://www.attackperformance.com/

Attach is based out of Cali


Here is a Dubahn kit

http://www.kawiforums.com/sale-part...rbahn-ccc-evo-ii-cable-clutch-conversion.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I guess all have to call or email them. I'd like to have this kit.. Zxgreen7r, have you considered fitting an aftermarket lever to the cable clutch bar piece? That's the only downfall I see.. Also out of curiosity what do you find to be a good measure of fork tube showing above your upper triple clamp? Thanks.
 

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attack is still around but the cable clutch for the 7r isn't anymore... or am I missing something?

ZX7R and RR parts have long been discontinued... I got my kit from a Brit

I guess all have to call or email them. I'd like to have this kit.. Zxgreen7r, have you considered fitting an aftermarket lever to the cable clutch bar piece? That's the only downfall I see.. Also out of curiosity what do you find to be a good measure of fork tube showing above your upper triple clamp? Thanks.

I love the retro look... I have Pazzo Levers but they dont make a difference... I have big hands and i dont feel fatigue with that cable clutch and my brake master is a radial mount off a ZX10R


Follow the Race Manual... I am sitting at about 15mm... I will go a bit lower once I get my progressive rate springs for the forks... any lower than 20-25mm and you will risk an edgy turn in... the steering damper is a nice help... its modified aswell to be super stiff like a track bike
 

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I went Tokico Radial on mine off a ZX10R/GSXR... then a Radial Master from a ZX10R

Finished the back end off with a 636 Single Piston in the Rear and a ZX9R Bracket to get the brake up high and away from the road dirt
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The same guy I bought the front set up from is running a zxr brembo caliper adaptor in the rear w a 450 master. He says real good feel and responce...
 
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