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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I have done a slightly different mod to my tailbox than the one explained on KawiForums./
I took a long drillbit and cut away the rearmost plate around the round outlet pipe through the two rear openings. Now the exhaust gas exit straight out from the R.H. side pipe coming through the box. Just be careful as you can easily damage the two tail pieces as they are very thin. It took me about an hour and it breathes much better with much better sound.

I also uncoupled the "Power Valve" (sound restrictor) and my throttle response is much better right through the rev range except for right down between 2-3k. The power also now kicks in at about 9000 instead of abou 10500.

Also just fitted the Puig DB Dark tint on my Orange and this looks and work amazing!!!
(Couldn't climb off the bike the whole weekend!!!!)


 

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Looking Good....
 

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I don't know if you noticed but it looks (in that first picture) like you might have hit someone and their head is stuck in your swingarm. Might want to check that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't know if you noticed but it looks (in that first picture) like you might have hit someone and their head is stuck in your swingarm. Might want to check that out.
Sh**!!!!! :scared I never noticed!!!!!!:scared

Yeah sorry about that, my son was busy with the cables on the Powervalve. Should have posted another pic.:rotflmao

Very difficult to take photo into the two triangular outlets to show exactly, but if you look into the two outlets, you will see the outlet pipe which is actually slightly off-centre to the left. The plate around that outlet pipe can be drilled open with a series of hole close to each other, and then you can use a thin chisel to "break-out" these plates (one either side of the round outlet) which will then expose the internal pipe on the R.H. side inside this box, alowing the exhaust gas to flow straight out the two outlets. You don't even have to take anything off the bike to do this and a good carefull job should not take more than an hour.

Hope this explains, but will try to get a good photo!

Definately makes a great difference in sound and apparent power!
 

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also where is this power valve you uncoupled?
The valve is in the stock slip-on, right hand side. The cabling goes across to the left hand side of the bike to the servo that controls it. You can't miss it, it's a big metal cylinder on the underside of the muffler.

 

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so disconecting it locks it open right? and when you drilled the plate out will it fall down the pipe or does it come out the back easy? Sorry I'm at work so just asking since I can't see lol.
 

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so disconecting it locks it open right? and when you drilled the plate out will it fall down the pipe or does it come out the back easy? Sorry I'm at work so just asking since I can't see lol.

Details on doing this would be greatly apprecaited x10 :mfclap
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
so disconecting it locks it open right? and when you drilled the plate out will it fall down the pipe or does it come out the back easy? Sorry I'm at work so just asking since I can't see lol.
If you take the cover off of the valve, you can start the bike and (when it's warmed up), rev it up and check what this thing does! The servo actually closes this valve slightly while you ADD power, and only re-opens it when the revs have stabilised. If you disconnect the cables, there is a spring that keep it in the fully open position. You can take your hand and manipulate it to check it out with the cables disconnected.

With this valve disconnected, while you accelerate, there is no more restriction by the valve, and I find it respond (as well as sound) much better.

You will also see that (while the cables still connected) the servo actually always keep the valve slightly closed.

I am not sure yet wether this will influence the Fuel Injection Mapping, but so far no problems. (Only done a week ago.) My bike must go for it's 6000km service in about 2 weeks, and will have a look at how the plugs burn then!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh yes, sorry, the plate that you cut out at the back of the exhaust can not fall in too deep into the box and can easily be retrieved by a piece of wire and some prestik or similar! I did mine a little more rude and drilled only two 15mm hole next to each other and forced a larger chisel trough to open it up sufficiently, but be carefull not to damage the box or break off the brackets!!

Unfortunately did not have a chance yet for photo's, but will take some this weekend and post on monday!
 

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thanks for the info ima wait a lil longer till you get your servive for them to look at the plugs. pix would be great too, it sound easy too
 

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Man I can't believe all of the factory exhuast silencing work they put on this bike. I wonder if it will screw with the fuel timing if I leave it wide open though and disconnect it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Man I can't believe all of the factory exhuast silencing work they put on this bike. I wonder if it will screw with the fuel timing if I leave it wide open though and disconnect it?
Like I said, I have done mine now a week ago and have done about 200km with it. There is no misfiring, flat spots, or any sign so far that the fuel injection is affected whatsoever, and if anything, made it a bit stronger on the pull !
If you ride it around 7000 rpm constantly, it has now a growl like a TEREX Hauler!! From there on it pulls smoothly and when it hits 8500-9000, it now starts to pull much stronger than before!

We have now disconnected the one on the ZX10 also, and on the ZX10RNet.com, the guys say it is a huge improvement on the 10 with no ill effects.
So I cant foresee any problems on the ZX6R.
 

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If you take the cover off of the valve, you can start the bike and (when it's warmed up), rev it up and check what this thing does! The servo actually closes this valve slightly while you ADD power, and only re-opens it when the revs have stabilised. If you disconnect the cables, there is a spring that keep it in the fully open position. You can take your hand and manipulate it to check it out with the cables disconnected.

With this valve disconnected, while you accelerate, there is no more restriction by the valve, and I find it respond (as well as sound) much better.

You will also see that (while the cables still connected) the servo actually always keep the valve slightly closed.

I am not sure yet wether this will influence the Fuel Injection Mapping, but so far no problems. (Only done a week ago.) My bike must go for it's 6000km service in about 2 weeks, and will have a look at how the plugs burn then!
does your FI light stays blinking? i just did mine ican hear the diff but that light keeps blinking. oh yeah i didnt disconnect both cables, just the rear one should i do both of them?
 
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