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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 99' zx9r with a D+D slip-on and K+N filter. When I went to have the dynojet kit installed today, the instructions read to drill slide holes in the carbs to get the most out of the kit. I have not drilled the holes yet because I want to know what difference it is going to make. The dealer at the shop says when he installs the kit the bike will have to be test driven, then taken apart to have the carbs readjusted, then put back together and tested again. I don't know if I want to wait all summer for that and if I didn't have to drill the holes in the carbs I could just install the kit myself and be riding instead of waiting. Has anyone tried the dynojet stage 1 without drilling the holes and how did it work for you?

Another option I looked at is a sprocket set from a website called moto-heaven.com. Here is the description for the sprocket on the site, but I don't understand how it works. I always thought changing the gearing would decrease top speed and throw off the mileage and speedometer?

"The Stage I sprocket set is designed to give you the maximum acceleration and increased thrust, WHITHOUT sacrificing top speed, AND allowing you to retain your stock length chain! And, you don't even have to break the chain or remove it to install this sprocket kit. (We will provide you with step by step install tips on how to accomplish this.) This kit lowers your final drive ratio about 10% through the sprocket sizes. So, that means, you will increase your rpm's by about 10%, reach your shift points much faster, accelerate much harder, and reach your top speed much quicker. Because the Stage I doesn't increase your rpm's so much that you will reach the revlimiter in top gear, your top speed won't be effected. And, in fact, when the rider weights 190+, the kit can actually increase your terminal velocity by allowing your engine to rev higher in top gear, creating more hp, and help to overcome the natural rolling and wind resistances. This is the best all-around performance setup in gearing ratio."
 

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It depends on the combination of sprockets, between the front and rear, I never messed with gearing I liked the 9s stock set up, as for the jet kit, it only takes a couple of hours to install, and test, if they charge for more that 2.5 hours go somewhere else, or you can do it its not that hard the kit already has the bit for opening up the hole, so all you need is a steady hand and keep it straight, change the jets, then drop the needles and adjust the mix screws, then take it to some one that has the tool to get the carbs sync'd
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I took the carbs out of the bike myself because the boss at my shop said if I took the bike apart and put it back together I would save on the labor. He says the stage 1 kit only gives general instructions on the settings - using the 4th notch on the jet needles and 3 turns out on the pilot air screws - but these settings will not likely be right the first time and it could take a couple of tests to find the right settings. That's the hard part. I don't know enough to make the fine tuned adjustments or balance the carbs myself so I took it over there since it backfires and doesn't have the get up and go that I imagined. I thought the 9r would be able to pull 2nd and 3rd gear wheelies at 70 mph but it doesn't get up for anything after a full tank of gas. It cannot even pull a small one in first without bouncing the suspension on power or clutch. I plan to leave the gearing stock unless the jet kit doesn't do a lot to improve performance.
 

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A well tuned engine

with or without a jet kit, will always outperform one with only a jet kit installed. There is a tuning process to keep the AFR consistent throughout the RPM range and engine maintenance must be performed to keep the engine within its tolerances (i.e. valves).

Gearing is a quick change that should result in your front wheel becoming very happy, at the cost of top speed and MPG of course. Nothing comes free.

Tuned correctly a 1999 9R riding at St. Louis' altitude should noticeably pull the wheel off the ground in 1st and 2nd; if the motor is still young & tight, 3rd gear too.
 

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Clutch adjustment plays a lot into wheelies too. Our C models (98,99) are divas about clutch adjustment and are prone to gearbox issues with 3rd (E or F models got it right). Ever noticed your clutch lever pulsing cruising in 3rd or 4th? And tighten when on it hard in lower gears? (The lower the gear the lever pulses the tighter the clutch and vice versa)

Ive played with adjustments thats smooth at high and low rpm shifts and went a tad loose (3rd/4th pulsing lever vs 4th/5th pulsing) cause otherwise i could lightly feel teeth in between shifts at commuting speeds.

If yours is on the tighter side of spec its never coming up in 2nd cause the clutch wont fully engage. After you put the jet kit in if you still have to bounce up 1st - loosen your clutch freeplay to make sure it engages fully.

That said, the looser side of spec is what you want to ensure full engagement but you're gonna chase that adjustment cause it moves quick if you ride hard and/or do wheelies.

To be fair my clutch is oem w/ 20k miles. It'll power up in 1st but havent tried 2nd cause Im already pushin it doin 1st. Ive popped up the wheel with clutch in 2nd but no wheelie. Clutches up in 1st like nobody's business.
 

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Luke , your not to far from me if your in or around st louis. A good friend of mine is a bike mechanic , if I cant do something to my bike its where I go. If you want I can see what he would charge to do it. He works in an actually shop but takes on side work at home for extra money , just as good as a shop but cheeper.
 

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I had to edit my previous comment, clutch adjusments are opposite-comprehension for me lol

*I jus adjusted my clutch cause after 2 weeks of 1st gear clutch ups it started not engaging fully and just spinning when I tried to clutch up so I loosened the freeplay - the complete opposite of what I said before I edited the comment*
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I went to the shop today and it was all put together with the kit installed but no one had tested it yet. Then this new kid rolled my bike out of the garage and parked it facing down a hill. When he got off the kick stand went back and it fell on the left side scraping it all up. Half the clutch lever broke off, the blinker ripped out, the frame slider hit, the fairing got scratched along with the engine cover, and the handle bar got scraped plus the mirror. I was glad the gas tank did not get hit though. The good news is the manager said the jet kit install will be free, plus I get a new clutch lever, mirror, blinker, frame slider, and half the cost of the paint. I had just repainted the bike last summer too, and I am most mad about that because it took all summer to do and the paint is $100 just for one tiny can.

After it fell over I did get a chance to try the bike. On full throttle, acceleration is smooth up until about 8,000 rpm and then it shoots straight up to redline. Isn't there supposed to be a huge boost of power after 8K? It just gets a lot louder instead of rocketing forward. I left the bike there because the technicians have to ride it to find out how to adjust it. D-CON you may be right about the clutch but I did not try to do any wheelies with it broken in half, so I will wait until I get the new one put on. RubberSideDown I might just have to visit that mechanic after what happened today.
 

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Half the cost of paint?

HALF?

They better cover every mother fucking penny of that shit.
 

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Dude , your whole trip better be free... Tell them you want the owners number and talk to him. They carry insurance for shit like that. When they droped my gsxr they fixed everything , gave me a free helmet snd free tune ups for a year
 

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On full throttle, acceleration is smooth up until about 8,000 rpm and then it shoots straight up to redline. Isn't there supposed to be a huge boost of power after 8K? It just gets a lot louder instead of rocketing forward.
That sucks man, +1 on all repairs being free! But yeah, if the bike zings to redline while accelerating then your clutch cable is too tight and does not have enough play at the lever. Our model spec is 2-3mm gap between the lever and the lever holder. Thats roughly the width of a nickel and a penny together.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So that's where the power went! Yep, D-Con is right. The clutch did not have any slack. I just figured the clutch was like that since it was that way when I got it. The guy from the shop who made the adjustment warned me it was going to be like another bike after that, and right he was. And thanks everyone, I have been trying to find this answer for the last 2 years!

First and second gear pull like a mad bull, and third like an ox. It feels a LOT faster than before the jet kit. When riding hard in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd for the whole tank, it went empty at 148 miles. The reason it ripped up to redline is because the tire was spinning out on the wet highway after the rain. On dry road it does fine. As for wheelies, first gear powers up like a charm sitting down or standing. Second gear powers up while sitting with a little help from me, or by standing up and just giving it the gas. Third cannot power up while sitting at highway speeds, but it is possible while standing with a good bounce. First, second, and possibly 3rd can be clutched up while sitting down, and all 3 gears can do it standing up. Does this sound about right? I am new to wheelies since the bike couldn't do them before. I used to think it would be cool and all, but now that I experience this kind of power it is too scary. It is a huge difference going straight off the ninja 250 to the 900. I say it is better to have a nice bike than to crash trying to do a stunt.

Here is where the bike fell over at Midwest Kawasaki and Trailer. I would probably go somewhere else if my house wasn't so close to the shop. Instead of repainting it I am getting a new side cowling for free so that is nice. I guess the frame slider doesn't work if the bike falls over as hard as it can.

 
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