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Drive Chain adjustment. Wots your method ??

Greetings all,
Well, my 92 is running "amazingly" at the moment
(probably just jinxed myself :scared).
Today I spent some time cleaning/lubeing/adjusting the chain
which got me to thinking :headscratch.....
How do YOU adjust YOUR chain ????
Any tips/tricks ????.

Stay Frosty.
Cheers,
Gav
 

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First (and most important) is to establish whether or not the alignment is correct. Once you've done that, any adjustment is just a matter of equal numbers of turns on the adjuster bolts. I count flats. When I have 1 1/4" of up-and-down slack on the center of the lower run of the chain with the bike's weight on the wheels, I tighten the locknuts.

The tightest position is when the axle, pivot and output shaft are in alignment. If you adjust on the centerstand, the swingarm is drooping a bit and the chain will tighten when the suspension compresses.
 

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Just done mine ,You have to loosen the bolt that holds the hub brace on then the back two locking bolts, take your Allen wrench and loosen or tighten as needed to move the cam on both sides. Be sure you have the same alinement with the notches on both sides and the chain should be 1.4 to 1.6 up and down free play!
 

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Forgot about some models of ZX-11 having the eccentric chain adjusters. A guy I know who rides one says it IS possible to get them out of alignment, so that still needs to be checked.
 

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i adjust the left side first to however tight i want the chain,tighten it, then lock that side in. then start adjusting the right side. i eyeball each side as im adjusting the right side to see how close the rear front most part of the tire sidewall(if that makes sense to you lol) is to the swing arm. once it looks about even with my eyes, i tighten down the right side about half way, use a micrometer to make my fine adjustments, once its perfect, i finish tightening the right side, lock it in, and good to go.
 

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I adjusted my chain this past weekend and had to comment on this thread.First off, the last time I had the rear wheel off I coated the outer surface of the eccentrics with anti-seize so they turn very freely and wont corrode.like butta if you will.
Now all I do is loosen the 2 allen pinch bolts and turn one side.the other side follows perfectly.no need to loosen anything else and the alignment stays intact.I knew there had to be some merit to this system
 

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First (and most important) is to establish whether or not the alignment is correct. Once you've done that, any adjustment is just a matter of equal numbers of turns on the adjuster bolts. I count flats. When I have 1 1/4" of up-and-down slack on the center of the lower run of the chain with the bike's weight on the wheels, I tighten the locknuts.

The tightest position is when the axle, pivot and output shaft are in alignment. If you adjust on the centerstand, the swingarm is drooping a bit and the chain will tighten when the suspension compresses.
+1 I use the Motion Pro chain alignment tool. Was also "taught" to roll the (round) shaft of a tool like a screwdriver in the rear sprocket to make the chain taut and ensure the axel is pulled all the way forward against the adjuster blocks.
 

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+1 I use the Motion Pro chain alignment tool. Was also "taught" to roll the (round) shaft of a tool like a screwdriver in the rear sprocket to make the chain taut and ensure the axel is pulled all the way forward against the adjuster blocks.
Also not so helpful with cam adjusters. I don't loosen the axel bolt, just the pinch bolts. As One Bad says adjust fromt the left, and if you haven't antisiezed the adjusters follow up on the right to ensure the wheel is properly aligned. Have fun!
 
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