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'98 ZX9 manual says DOT4 fluid; auto store only had a Valvoline DOT3/DOT4 fluid. No prob or no-go?
 

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Not sure what the contents of the 3/4 are, but normally anything that's designed to take the place of two different things isn't as good at either job as the specific item.
 

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Its fine, look at the boiling point of the stuff.

If it is as high as 4 or higher, use it. the only (functional) difference between 3 and 4 is the boiling point, otherwise it functions the same. as brake fluid.

I use that exact same stuff in my bike, he valvoline DOT 3 & 4. Its labeled as 3 and 4 because you can mix them without problems and it exceeds both specifications.
It has a dry boiling point of 480 degrees which exceeds both 3, and 4.

Its not a mixture of 3 and 4, because they are essentially the same thing. DOT 4 is DOT 3 with an additional compound in it, thus there is zero harm in mixing the two. Assuming both fluids are clean and fresh, mixing them will result in a fluid with a slightly lower boiling point than 4, but slightly higher than 3.


Any type of brake fluid can easily exceed DOT minimums as well, which is what that valvoline stuff is.
Advanced auto doesn't even sell straight DOT 4.


I have the bottle sitting on my desk right now, would you guys like to know any details off it? lol
 

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Compatible with all braking systems requiring a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid. Mixes with conventional fluids.
High dry-boiling point of up to 480F reduces risk of fluid evaporation and possible brake failures. (Which is higher than DOT4 standard)
Low moisture formula provides excellent vapor lock protection. (Which would be when your shit boils, expands, and locks the brakes)
Maximizes ABS performance.
Ideal for hydraulic and disc brakes.
Surpasses specifications for SAE J1703, SAE J1704.
Minimum wet boiling point is 311F. (Which is the minimum for DOT4)

And then the rest of it is just use only clean fluid, keep it dry, do not refill, blah blah.
 

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Its fine, look at the boiling point of the stuff.

If it is as high as 4 or higher, use it. the only (functional) difference between 3 and 4 is the boiling point, otherwise it functions the same. as brake fluid.

I use that exact same stuff in my bike, he valvoline DOT 3 & 4. Its labeled as 3 and 4 because you can mix them without problems and it exceeds both specifications.
It has a dry boiling point of 480 degrees which exceeds both 3, and 4.

Its not a mixture of 3 and 4, because they are essentially the same thing. DOT 4 is DOT 3 with an additional compound in it


I have the bottle sitting on my desk right now, would you guys like to know any details off it? lol
OK, I'll bite

1. What's the compound in DOT 4 that raises the boiling point that's not present in DOT 3?

2. Why can't you mix DOT 3 and DOT 4?

3. Can you mix DOT 3/4 with either?

4. If the DOT 3/4 has the unnamed compound, why don't they just call it DOT 4? I guess maybe the answer to questions 2 and 3 might provide some insight.

5. Why don't some places sell DOT 4? A friend in Florida is having difficulty finding DOT 4, but it's readily available around here and many other places according to what others have told me.
 

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1. What's the compound in DOT 4 that raises the boiling point that's not present in DOT 3?
Same thing they put in ultra premium high grade fuel, to make your car faster.
I call it, dark magic.
 

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You CAN mix dot3 with dot4. It just lowers the boiling point of the 4. If your vehicle calls for dot4, you cant mix the 3 in only because it will not have a high enough boiling point.

If it calls for 3, you can pour as much 4 in there as you want.

Many places don't bother selling it because they can sell this stuff and carry less inventory.
And the magic ingredient is "borate esters" and a slightly different mixture of basically the same crap.

And

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Can_you_mix_DOT_3_and_DOT_4_brake_fluid
 

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I thought DOT4 fluid was a silicon based liquid?
5 and 5.1 are silicone based brake fluids.

The military does, or at least at one point did, use it in their vehicles. I know this because I have gone to dozens of army reserve bases and AMSA locations which were trying to get rid of old bottles of the stuff because they put a shelf life on everything. And because we can't take it since its not a petroleum product.

Its also grossly incompatible with standard petroleum based fluids, and does not absorb water, which is why it sucks for street use. Not absorbing the water means it sits down in the caliper, boils, and then locks your brakes.

But, when properly maintained (which the military does a lot of maintaining) it has a very, very high boiling point.
 

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For you fashion concious riders who like matching Chemicals in your ride.
Here's a new product by Motul. It goes with your Factory Line 300V Full Synthetic Double Ester motor oil.

Factory Line RBF660 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Motul-847205-Factory-Percent-Synthetic/dp/B004LF1U5O[/ame]




It costs about as much as Castrol SRF. You could run the RBF600 and change it twice as often for the same price. I think I read the SRF doesn't need changing as often as the RBF. :headscratch
 

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Thats fine, but I pay like 3 bucks for a big thing of the 3/4.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
uh oh, this is looking like an oil thread lol but thanks for all the responses and considerations. I really dont know which way Im gonna go yet. Im trying to balance peace of mind and practicality like when I switched to Rotella...
 
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