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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dumb question. I have a 1988 ZX750-F. I need to change my oil. The person I bought it from recently changed it and it still looks somewhat clean. I am being told every 1000 miles because of the high rpming
1. yes, 1st bike, newbie they call it?
2. i got a quote for 400 dollars to change the oil with filter and oil included. Serious? I will be broke in no time. So I will do it myself. What? I have to remove the whole exhaust just to drop the filter. Man, serious? What are my alternatives???
Leading to the subject! Can I just drop the nut, drain, and refill. What harm can be done if I leave the oil filter intact every oil change I do?
BTW. The oil filter bolt doesnt even looked touched, so I am assuming he did the same thing. Just curious and hoping somewhere out in the Kawasaki world someone can help me. Thanks!
 

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yeah some dealerships are expensive..


just bust out that manual or watch youtube video and you wont spend more than $100 both filters and brand name oil.
 

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shouldn't have to remove any pipes to change the filter.......If you are using a regular oil like Valvoline or something (motorcycle 4 stroke oil) the whole oil change shouldn't cost you more than about $35 including filter.
 

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or be super ghetto and just drain the oil replace wit fressh oil and leave the filter lol but next time it will have to be done ive seen ppl keep filters on the cars til it was so soft the case twisted off and the internals stayed on the car so an extra 1000 miles or 2 wont b a big deal ,.,.,., >>> this is not something i would reccomend to anyone but im just givving you options
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. At this point all I have is options. I looked underneath and it doesnt look like its going to clear the pipes. Maybe i can cut off the old filter and possibly replace it with a smaller version than the one thats in there? What a headache. I really would hate to spend $400 every 3000 miles for an oil change. Gonna try it next week and see what happens. Appreciate the options. I like the fact of crushing it, just wondering how to get the new one on. its like 3/4 of the cap is easy clearance and its just that 1/4 of an inch that seems to be sitting right underneath the pipes. im wondering if i am panicing, and it will spin all the way off just resting on the pipe. I am not sure how thick the spindle is. i will definetly keep all posted because this is unbelievable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I have a new twist in the oil change story. I am hearing horror storys about dropping my exhaust from cracking header bolts and ripping apart rubber washers and the extent of damage i could do. So.....my idea.? Seeing that the blockage is coming from the cross bar between the 2 exhausts, is it possible I can just cut it, and then plug my cuts up? I dont want to break knuckles and spend 3 hours everytime i need an oil change. Yes I know, welcome to older bikes, but seriously. I recently found out that my fan was not kicking on at high temps, so what did i do? Toggled it to the fan. Runs great. Now I can safley sit in heated traffic with no concern(its hot on the legs when the fans on). I put a breaker from the fan to the battery just in case i ground out. So far so good! so now I am just tring to figure out this silly cross member in between the exhaust that sits right below my oil filter. Please anyone have any suggestions. I want to crush the old one, great idea, but how is it one puts the new one on? I thought just shoving it in then capping it but it need to settle perfectly on the center spring according to my german manual. If you cant fix it........hmmm....RIG IT!! I took pictures, but do not have the knowledge to post them on here. Thanks all.
 

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Changing the oil every 1000 miles is a total waste of time and money. Every 3000 for petroleum oil and 6000 for synthetic is fine. But change the filter every time you change the oil. And run like hell from any place that tells you you need an oil change every 1000. They're after your money bigtime and they think you're dumb enough to give it to them.
 

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taking the radiator and headers of is pretty simple and u can do it in all in under 2 hours if u choose to go this route the manual is online sumwhere and its like 15 steps nuin major
 

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I have a 1990 with the same issue of being hard to change the filter. It can be done. You need to keep the filter cover pried up, I use a long screwdriver, then unscrew the bolt and take it out first then you can take out the filter. The reverse is the same. Push the filter cover up against the block, put the bolt in, wedge that screwdriver in to keep the filter cover from dropping down and screw the bolt in. It's a bitch but can be done.
 

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An oil filter could be cleaned before a bike sell. You can change it by parcial destruction, introducing a squared bar on a previous cut over its head and turning out.
 

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$400!!:lol wtf?? I would seriously laugh if I was quoted for that much.

Do it yourself bro it'll only cost you like 50 bucks and YES change your filter why not do it? Its one of the most important things on your bike to maintain. Also, every 1000 miles is really unnecessary unless you are racing it. I change the oil on my daily driver every 2.5 to 3k and thats done me a lot of justice. Good luck with the clearance issue and if you can't get the filter off try jamming a screwdriver through the side for leverage.
 

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What about being able to get the new one on?Gonna have to drop the header it sounds like.had to on mine ,it has a vh exhaust .Seriously thinking about a factory header.I would rather be able to change my filter without taking off or loose a bunch of crap.:crazyloco
 

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Ok I have a new twist in the oil change story. I am hearing horror storys about dropping my exhaust from cracking header bolts and ripping apart rubber washers and the extent of damage i could do. So.....my idea.? Seeing that the blockage is coming from the cross bar between the 2 exhausts, is it possible I can just cut it, and then plug my cuts up? I dont want to break knuckles and spend 3 hours everytime i need an oil change. Yes I know, welcome to older bikes, but seriously. I recently found out that my fan was not kicking on at high temps, so what did i do? Toggled it to the fan. Runs great. Now I can safley sit in heated traffic with no concern(its hot on the legs when the fans on). I put a breaker from the fan to the battery just in case i ground out. So far so good! so now I am just tring to figure out this silly cross member in between the exhaust that sits right below my oil filter. Please anyone have any suggestions. I want to crush the old one, great idea, but how is it one puts the new one on? I thought just shoving it in then capping it but it need to settle perfectly on the center spring according to my german manual. If you cant fix it........hmmm....RIG IT!! I took pictures, but do not have the knowledge to post them on here. Thanks all.
Serious? You can't figure out how to change your oil so you'll just cut the exhaust? How are you going to plug it up?
Spend the time and money and do the job right or get rid of the bike. You're going to look for the EZ way out on everything and end up ruining your first bike.
Find a manual and go from there for the proper procedure and change intervals for oil and filter.
You only have 2 wheels under you, cutting corners will only get you in trouble.
 

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$400? Lol
Anyways,you still should be able to change the oil filter without touching the exhaust. It's a tight fit but you can still remove it. My zx7 oil filter is extremely tight to the header but sill
can be removed.
So,buy the recommended oil,10/40 or 20/50 or whatever Kawasaki recommends for that Kawasaki,buy the recommended oil filter,drain the old oil,remove old oil filter,oil up new oil filter,install new oil filter,fill bike up with new oil.
All said and done should cost you no more then $50

As long as you take your time and are decently mechanical savy,then this should be no problem for you. It's an oil change ,pretty straight forward.
Anymore questions you have along the way lots of us here to answer.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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In this case, if you go by the book, you'll have to take the headers off and that a box full of crap! Bolts break, new gasket fail to fix, edges, flanges ruin leading to leaks, too prematurely, because of natural corrosion there ...
 

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My 89 H model is just as much a pain in the ass to change. My issue though is that I have a Muzzy header and it blocks the drain plug. So I have to remove the exhaust and radiator to get the old oil out. Luckily the oil filter is a screw on type on the oil cooler.
 

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come to my house i only charge 300$ LOL

hehe seriously, if your exhaust is in the way it's what 4 bolts to drop it ? just unbolt it and change the filter.

You should change the filter EVERY oil change...they are like 5$ really no reason not to.
 
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